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Good spot, that buggers that idea.

Light switch. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/High-Quality-Horn-Switch-lights-Switch-Wire-for-Electric-Scooter-Electric-Bicycle/1314442_32621408672.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.38.cf8837b4r8OJ0E

It will be possible but depends on the voltage rating of the lights. For 6v the integrated controllers doesn't have support for lights with the supplied 1 -4 bus cable, but you can buy a 1 - 5 bus cable that has extra 2 pin (Red) julet for a front light (6v). Wire the rear light in parallel...

Rear panniers with a rear hub I find doesn't affect motor, the only noticeable affect is the weight and handling/ balance if used for shopping as I often do. If groceries are heavy then handling like an unpowered bike is noticeable but weight wise a good motor/power deals with the weight quite...

That's cleared things up a bit.

Thanks for the info Tony seems to back up that which VFR has said and it is a geared hub and not a D/D as I have always thought.

Fuses are there to protect wiring and controller from over current supplied from the battery should the BMS fail it's job. Speed restriction is controller pcb controlled or by LCD settings. To up the speed an open source type controller with lcd is required like Luishi, Kuenteng or the less user...

My BBS01 I set PAS 1-5 @ 20/35/50/65/80 % current & 100% speed for 5 levels of differing low/med torque and high speed for flat terrain. PAS 6 - 9 100% current & 30/40/50/60% speed for high torque and slow speed for inclines for off road. Playing with settings is down to what ever suits you...

The KTM hub if not mistaken is a compact hight torque D/D so should last for ever as it has no moving parts. it is possible to re cell the battery if the bms is kept live by wiring a temporary power source in parallel to the bms before disconnecting the old cell pack.

Just a typo/misplaced decimal point. You can get a bit more if required down to 43v is ok, or use PAS 2 more to eke out range if needed and save the higher assist for inclines. PAS 3 gives about 33% of available amps and PAS 2 about 20%.

Cyclotricity use a customer custom option which uses different software for their kits to enable the twin power/unlock mode, if you want to still access both power modes then you have little choice but to buy from them. A commonly available LCD3 will work but you won't be able to unlock/access...

If the battery was in tip top condition voltage wise as Benj has said it should give a reading of 41.5- 42v, the fact the charger doesn't input more charge may be because one cell group is high. Ideally you need to measure the 10 cell group voltages to get 10 separate voltage readings each one...

For flat commuting a hub motor will be better with less maintenance required and a more relaxing ride. Torque for acceleration/ climbing, surely for flat commuting you want a more relaxing commute. You mention tuning ( a dongle ?) in which case go legal and get an S -pedelec if you want speed...

KT controllers give a better % range through out the 5 PAS levels, approx. 13/20/33/50 & 100% of amps using current control also user can reduce the current by up to 50% in the advanced C settings on newer/latest controllers. My controllers are a few years old and don't use the % range...

I have the BPM kit and the hub is 4.4kg as mentioned, it puts down lots of power and is high torque. The ride/drive from the front wheel can take you a bit by surprise due to it's power, a rear hub is a more relaxing comfortable/controllable experience.

Tbh I couldn't hear anything out of the unusual, the only clicking noise I can hear is at about 44- 46s where you let the throttle spring back to quick and hits the back stop with a click. If there is a hub clicking or a noise it may be something tiny that is resonating via the wiring from the...

If no bms is fitted then charger won't input more charge once terminal voltage has been reached, this could mean over charged cells which is dangerous and poses a risk to you. As mentioned keep battery outdoors until you know what has occurred.

Cpt Mike another issue if a BMS has been bypassed (we hope not) is that it will also be unfused, if any current isn't fused then chance of controller damage or wire damage is of concern and possibly worse could occur. For now I wouldn't want to be keeping the battery indoors or in a flammable...

Cpt Mike you will need to get your self a mutli meter to carry out any diagnosis/voltage checking, get one from ebay or any other electrical store for 5- 10 £££'s and one that has the continuity beep function.

Opening is a very good idea to find out/know what has occurred, post pics to aid us and you in to identifying what has been done. If the charger shows a green light then indications are that a cell group is already at full voltage and if a BMS was fitted will not allow further input. What is...