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It is a possibility and only a fool would do it and the sell on the battery /bike as it is. If the seller has done so then it is damn dangerous to do so especially for the buyer if unaware. As we know it is ok to do so without a BMS, but in place there needs to be a system/way of checking...

The smaller 6 fet controllers can be finnicky and suffer thermal cut out's before cooling and running again, on my dual voltage one I added an extra heat sink and pair of fans as at 48v it was getting very hot. Hence I have dropped 48v and gone for larger 9fet @36v. In free air they will be...

Is the noise the freewheel or something else mechanical and not the hub. I have the CST hub and so far has been faultless with what ever I have thrown at it amps or voltage wise, as mentioned now have 25a KT supplying thought the main reason is not for top amps in PAS 5 or throttle but for...

It's not just bikesr/e bikes in general, today I was close passed as I walked along an FP by a guy on an e-scooter. I never heard him approach from behind at all and with no warning he shot by me at speed.

If the op wants another battery then he can use any 36v battery with as many ah/wh as he wishes, to maximise capacity you need a battery with 3500mah cells inside so GA, 35E, MJ1 pr M36 cells or opt for the 21700's with more capacity. 4 cells = approx. 14ah, 50 = 17.5ah & 60 =21ah, More...

I agree somewhat with SW, with the wiring as it is looks like someone has either recelled or replaced the bms and instead of having a charge port has done something strange with the wiring. It is possible he has used a two port bms which uses the discharge for charging, possible he has added...

The 15a controller is likiely for the out of stock 250w, others will most likely be 20/25a. 30- 40a will give the D/D more grunt for those hills, being gearless they tend to suffer with lack of power if amps are to little. Also do you really want a 5.5 -6kg hub on a front wheel, I found the...

Yes, just you will need a 30 -40a controller and a good battery.

If the bike has the steps system then a generic charger may not be ideal for the job.

Also Murata/Sony VTC5A & VTC6 Green wraps are priced very well.

If it is a better spec cell/battery try it and see what happens ?

At 2 .5 eu's a pop the GA is good value any spots can be lighty removed with a Dremel, being a Panasonic they will be good cells.

Do you have other batteries to try ?

Two rec's so take your pick one with soldered wires to pcb or one without. Another 40a continuous with s/w. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3-7V-cell-13S-48V-40A-lithium-battery-BMS-With-ON-OFF-switch-and-balance-function/623665_32847121949.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.24.27277abeeAGNsE

You can buy some Ann ones on ebay but sellers over hear like to hike the price to at least double or 2.5x the price.

If not bothered about usb then a generic 13s with switch will do the job. To replace the Bms you can cut/join & insulate C-.P & B- connections or solder directly, having the sense wires in one connection makes no difference you can simply solder the wires to the existing wires and insulate...

Browsing the their site noticed they are selling GA & PF cells at a cheaper rate, these are listed as refurbished and assume they are new unused from failed batteries packs . Possibly from the likes of Bosch,Yamaha etc- I know ES member Turnich in the EU acquires lots of these cells and sells...

Browsing the their site noticed they are selling GA & PF cells at a cheaper rate, these are listed as refurbished and assume they are new unused or light use cells from failed batteries packs . Possibly from the likes of Bosch,Yamaha etc- I know ES member Turnich in the EU acquires lots of these...

The bms has quite a few wire connectors obviously the opposite balance leads and a s/w on the lower middle lhs. A simpler 13s bms with switch will do the same job but depends on other features your one has, I assume a temp sensor and possibly a usb port. What doe the 4 pin connection at the...