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Some 250w hubs are stronger then others so depends on the hub, winding speed etc. I use 20a @36v on my Bafang cst and am happy with that but no doubt it can take a bit more, though my 29E's don't like it up them. I also have a 250w Xofo xfv ( I believe it is ) a freewheel hub but not tried that...

At 48v I have had it to just a tad over 28mph with 20a controller and was spinning out at 48/11 gearing. That high speed isn't of interest to me but wanted to see how fast I could push it.

I only bought the kit to try out the hub motor but have since sold the controller, V12L and swapped the 1-4 cable for the seperate phase/hall one. My bike originally set up with Q128c and KT 20a dual volt model non julet cables , so a quick swap over of hub job done. New 9fet sinewave controller...

The China cells sound like they can't handle the instant demand @20a via.the throttle, with Pas5 the demand isn't instant and takes a few more thou's of a sec to give the full power. One of my PF batteries is from PSWP and has no issues with power demand @25a demand.

Could well be down to the continuous discharge rate of the BMS of the battery and the cells being used, also the wiring (awg size) battery to controller. With my PF's (packs in parallel) I see some sag but not voltage collapsing, also I spec my wiring just a little higher to prevent...

15 months on and the Yose hub is till going strong, have now swapped out the 20a 6 fet for a 25a 9 fet sinewave @36v. I have been messing about with 3s booster packs for a while to ride at 48v but decided to revert solely back to 36v for ease of charging and paralleling packs without to much...

To a point lipo and lion discharge fairly uniformly down to about the 3.6v per cell, generally with lipo discharging deeper doesn't gain you much in range so I tend nowadays not to go lower.

I have and do use lipo and lion in parallel and both work fine together and find discharge to be equal. Once I have a resting voltage of 3.6/3.7v min per cell I disconnect the lipo and carry on with the lion, my lipo's make discharge easier as I have added a bms with switch to them to help...

Likely battery limitation, my PF cells deliver 858w @36v with 25a controller.

Hot connectors mean they can't handle the power flowing through them/contact is intermittent or wiring is bottle necking the power flow, either way power isn't freely getting through and is being wasted as heat. Bullets are known for poor transfer and often the plastic insulating burns/melts.

Phase might be fet issue but usually they either work or not, if using bullets for the phase wires cut them off and solder on an MT60. Voltage collapse suggests that you battery isn't up to it, limiting the amps still means the battery isn't up to it. Rather then explain how to test fets use...

My BBS01 is rideable on the flat or slight incline with no power but wears me out.

1. Means controller (not handle bar display) is too hot, often a thermal cut out will cause it to stop working until it has cooled down. To find the controller follow the motor wire to it. 2. Usually means if external wheel sensor used check the spoke magnet alignment with the sensor unit...

MH1 from tests suffers damage if given the full 10a, 7a max is recommended for cell life. That 10s5p battery will be a breeze for SO6S which is 15a max , cells will only see 3a max if a throttle or PAS5 is used.

Coming back to this one you need to tell us which motor/kit you have or show us a pic, if the motor is a high wattage crank drive or direct drive or geared hub then they will never conform to eapc regs. Registering is easier if a bike has a cert of conformity if not you will have many hurdles to...

You need to post a link to the item's you have purchased so we can see the actual item. If the speedo is not working them it may be a parameter setting if settings allow a change or it could be a wheel speed sensor error. A lot of hubs have internal wheel speed sensor otherwise if not you...

A new user flecc who hasn't got anything new to add, he has quoted me exactly in another thread.

36v should be 4.15v - 42v for a balanced battery, though you might not get a correct voltage reading unless battery is in communication with controller/display.

What motor do you have on the bike ? If it is marked greater then 250w it will never be legal unless you licence it as a light moped.

Programming and solid state mini components is the main reason mid drive controllers are so small and unless you are a skilful electronics expert then very little chance of upgrading.