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If it is now redundant for your needs you could sell your old 890 led to Quantums who having problems with his Viking bike, if he can confirm he has a KT controller then it will be a good match for him. With the five levels of PAS the approx. percentage of current in each level; 1/13% 2/20%...

Besides it being a purpose built oem ebike it is no different to anyother bike with standard mech parts easy to self maintain. I have a Big bear Kit and it will run at 19-20 mph and up to 22/23 in benign still conditions. If you derestrict then Woosh will not honour any warranty (Fair play why...

Just checking, C1 value 2 is correct.

If not controller limited then a led or lcd display may be able to restrict the speed. We need to know which controller you are using and a clear pic (not fuzzy) of the controllers wiring if you have no display connected.

The 790 will fit all my bikes and every other bike on the forum, but won't work on the vast majority unless they have a compatible controller. If you controller is KT then you have to use a KT lcd/led fir it to work correctly, we all like cheap but if cheap means not compatible then it is money...

Epoxied the charge port in to day and the product sticks like Sh** to a blanket in about 3-5 mins. In the past have used 2-part Araldite but wasn't overly impressed, this time I used the Gorilla 2 - part epoxy and it is superb. Going to make up the steerer tube bracket tomorrow for the amp/watt...

Brown is for lamp/ligth negative . The led 790 display is analogue and not digital so not KT compatible AFAICT, it is a Kingmeter display and they are Luishi compatible.

How man poles in the magnet disc as C1 can have an affect. C14 PAS strength signal try value 3. Other wise main one is as D8ve has said P3 value 1 for current control, you will certainly feel the different power levels.

Folding bikes aren't the most ideal for 20 miles but are fav's with commuters, if you have room/storage go for a larger wheeled bike. If getiing your leg over or back is an issue then a step thru type will be up to the job. Tbh I would get a bike from a reputable e-retailer like Woosh or Kudos...

If it's the motor wire then any short or wire break is probably as it enters the hollow axle. Although I haven't tried a re- wire it will be a time consuming job, the first hard bit is feeding the motor cable through the axle though a bit of grease should help things slide. Better then grease...

More amps may give more power and acceleration speed if the hub doesn't saturate or bog down. For out and out speed you need higher voltage though you may find 1 or 2 mph more.

:cool:Good work there Frank. Twin front discs nice.

No it's not relevant. The controller will be max 13a supply load. The battery is 15ah which is a capacity rating, the more ah a battery has then the better range/distance you can travel.

06 is phase wire issue , a motor wire short is the most likely outcome of the motor wire wrapping itself around the axle. You can try a manual test with the motor/controller connected. With the wheel off the ground try turning the wheel quickly, if you feel hard resistance disconnect the...

Welcome Gav, spill the beans and tell us your plans.

M315 levers are a bit spindly, if you can go for M395/445 /446 as the levers are a bit stronger, the callipers in this series of brakes are the same twin port actuating ones. The Shimano's offer very good braking for a relatively cheap outlay with only initial setting up required after that...

These controllers are mostly micro solid state electronics and are usually potted for water proofing, likely they don't have a conventional shunt but a mini solid state shunt resistor on the pcb, if you were good at electronics it may be possible to change out the S/R. The effort of de-potting...

The Sonata battery is 10.4ah so will have 40 cells inside with 10 x 4 parallel groups to get 36v, the 4 cells in parallel give the ah of the battery so each cell is 2.6ah. Samsung make the 2.6ah cell in a few versions 26F, 26H & 26J, there is little to choose between them and are much a like...

Nearly always the controller are at fault.

Very few hubs have a controller inside and your will not have. If the controller is a battery holder integrated type then little chance of obtaining one with higher amp out put, you would have to go the ugly route and use a stand alone remote controller and all the wiring involved.