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List the Basic P1 settings and the advanced C11 settings to see if any changes can be made to help in making the system work better.

YS Battery is the name YosePower sell under on Ebay. The 15a 350w rear hub is adequate for most users need for pootling around, in low assists the power may be a little tame but in levels 4 or 5 power will be noticeably different. The Yose hub is not bad but when you compare it to a Bafang CST...

Raleigh Array has a limited range with its 8.2ah battery , though makes for a slightly lighter bike. The Bafang hub of the Woosh will be a stronger better motor. Another similar bike to the Woosh is the Kudos Miami also other sin the range are Sonata,Liberty,Verona & Milano...

If the old 890 had 5 wires then is digital so lcd should work. C11 parameter should be value 0. Other wise possible data wirgng order is incorrect ? C10 has a restore function, never tried it though.

Some Ebay kits are cheap for a reason so post a link to any you are thinking of and we can offer some advise on them.

The lady needs an easier ride/better posture for her neck so sounds like current bike is unsuitable.

The other option is a top tube trinkets bag as in my pic and pop it in there, then just a case of the display button pad wire length to sort out. Moving it to the top of the steerer tube makes it no less prone to damage imv, if you up end the bike.

For down hill any ebike will do as long as it has front and back wheel :p. For up hill depends on the climb % and distance, along with riders ability and weight.

Most are right handed as common with motor cycles/mopeds. If you have Julet then buy one with Julet other wise they tend to be JST Sm 3 pins, some come with wired pins and connector loose & some already inserted. If wiring order is wrong you have to persuade the wired pins to come out with a...

Is/does the display turn off or stay on during these cut outs ? Are the cut outs actual power loss (system switching off) or just momentary losses of PAS power ?

For my Lcd's I make an aluminium bracket up so as to move it off the handle bars and it now sits on top of the steerer's stem, the top bolt and cap hold the bracket in place, the hole drilled out with an appropriate size hole drill.

The 22a KT controller is Julet so needs a 1T4 or 1T5 trunk cable, 1T5 cable has extra light function. Plug the trunk cable in at the controller and the other end has 4 smaller Julets, Green for LCD, Yellow for throttle and either 2 pin red or 3 pin Yellow for brake cut off. You need KTLCD...

Any three wire option will work as long as the wiring is connected in the right order.

Nothing no pas sensor needed or brake cut outs as all is TS. The set up should be neat/ tidy plug an play with no controller to conceal.

Yes agree for up to 20a pure nickel is all that is needed, just a case of using correct size for cells in P to series to carry the amperage across. In the experimental X pattern for parallel I used, parallel busses only need to be able to deliver the individual cell current to the center, it...

Your 4-1 trunk cable should all be Julet, you would need to double check the controller to trunk cable connection is the same and has the same number of pin outs. AFAIK all should fit together, do your home work first or post pics of your trunk cable to controller Julet for clarification.

You will need a KT lcd3 for a KT controller, haven't used a LCD5 or 8 so not sure how configurable they are when it comes to the C parameter settings. Sell your current Luishi controller and lcd as a pair to recoup some cash, they are rare to find for sale so should fetch good money as a...

Yours wife's bike is torque sensor so go to a bike shop or Halfrauds and try a cadence hub bike to compare. If you like one over the other then let that decide which type of drive kit to buy. In the UK Woosh are the best suppliers of kits and sell mostly cadence drive kitst and have a...

Bottom side odd number cells. I forgot pics for the sense and discharge wiring so drew them on. Top side odd cell numbers. For sense & final discharge I soldered and culminated a pair of 12awg wiring in to one soldering to a 10awg The battery case is aluminium so on the bottom of the...

I have finished and installed the Panasonic PF pack and it is now all but finished and installed in to the bespoke battery case. I hmmmed and arghed about construction and interconnectors and then after browsing ES battery building some more settled for one to try as an experiment, the battery...