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Which hub do you have and it's winding/rpm speed. You will probably get away with 17 or 20a 48v controller and near 1000w in top assist. Tbh you won't notice much difference running at 13 or 14a, however compared to you 36v set up torque/acceleration and speed will increase by 25%. 48v 14.5ah...

You only need to fit one brake sensor.

I never stop at the product description and always scroll down for item specs, if their not listed or not to my liking I move on. Quality/performance of the Annpower stuff is reliable as is their Nickel for welding, if it say's pure Ni then it is.

You have chosen well, an appropriate choice for a female gives you the option of not so smooth roads to ride on and you can jiggle the tyre pressures a little for more comfort. Woosh are a first class act for repairs and CS.

K has beaten me to it, probably needs a larger disc rotor and adapter. Best to post some pics to see the problem better. P.s Welcome aboard Wayne. We have at least two Kiwi's on here. AK or AnotherkIwi in Spain and TrevorMonty who is still a native.

If using 2x or 3x rings then will be dependant on the derailleur, other wise for single ring as big as you dare. Like wise a rear long cage capable of taking a 42t top end gear and a 31t gearing difference, though you can use a medium cage and a road link will perform the same job.

Depending on your use and riding strength, a programming cable to make some minor setting changes as often they are supplied in tame mode, usually to prevent motor/controller abuse but also to maximise range.. Cost about £20.

Simple some tyres can go 80 - 100psi.

The 30a one would have been ok as well. typical 30a & max 35a continuous with 100amp discharge protection.

Some hubs greasing is very sparse even from the factory.

Also might be an age thing and too new so not worn in yet. My Bafang CST is a lovely motor now it has a good 4k+ miles on it, it is easier to ride unassisted then when new, It has had more grease added and new bearings, other wise internally all is original.

The nut is there for a reason rather then a spacer nut it will helping to keep a bearing/ seal or the like in place and to prevent lateral axle movement.

Longevity wise your batteries will be less stressed and amp draw kinder to them so they will /should have a longer life span holding capacity better, mileage/ range wise you will see at least the same as the two individual batteries would give and should see a little improvement but it won't be...

Interesting question NEV, like for like and same bike but different weight then momentum and gravity should mean the heavier laden bike is quicker. On down hill section from Handcross to Bolney on a route I use my non electric gravel bike circa 13.5 -14kg loaded up is faster then my electric...

What ever you do to the bike you can't take it back for repair/service as they won't touch it with a barge pole as you will have modified it for a use it wasn't designed for. That aside if you want legal power then BBS01B 250W with programming lead and 14.5 /17ah, 522/612wh battery should give...

Travel is dependent on how big the landing is with you sat down over the jumps :rolleyes:. :pWrong person your not Soundwave.

May need new grease or lack of internal greasing and a service internally. No brakes binding or axle over tight causing binding. Any one brave enough to open theirs up to have a gander ? If not send it to me to have a poke around however there is a disclaimer that I won't be held responsible...

leighping has it sorted I believe, watching his many videos.

Ann power sub £19 delivered never paid any fees as comes RM post. Same one from UK reseller on ebay £33+ https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/51-8V-30A-14S-PCM-used-for-51-8-V-lithium-ion-battery/623665_1206415913.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.12.5cd57abebQTryb 40a under £21...

Tension adjuster should have + or -- marked on it, clockwise for firmer support or anti CW for a more flexible support.