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Your still at 41.3v, battery is a bit weak and unbalanced still. Weakest cell is 4.08v so either the voltage is collapsing big time or a fault elsewhere. 4.1v 4.1v. 4.11v. 4.11v. 4.08v. 4.1v. 4.2v. 4.1v 4.2v. 4.2v. Wire up a volt meter and see what happens to the voltage reading when you apply...

Pics as you go along sounds good.

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My diy trueing stand works perfectly for front and rear. And all made from scraps lying about.

Most of the major players use standard hall wiring, Bafang, Mxus, Aikema ,Yose, Xiongda, etc. As do the major players with controllers. Red & Black, Blue A, Green B & Yellow C with White as speed sensor. Just make sure colours match. Granted some obscure or cheap China suppliers may be...

When a hub plays up using throttle is a bad idea so pas only, throttle power usually gives max amps so damage can occur to the controller esp the mosfets. These can be damaged so after going through the above to rule out a wire fault you will need to test controller mosfets, if the checks don't...

White wire is internal speed sensor it is not needed or needing to be connected if you already have ext sensor. When powered up you should see 11.4v - 14v (dependant on battery state of charge) across each phase when the motor is activated via pas or throttle, you will see 0v with no motor...

Taking it lower again quite good on trickle discharge last two cells a bit different. Wh 3.6v. Red 3.4v. All others 3.48 - 3.52v It is what happens on a proper discharge load that we will know how well it is behaving. Quite often a slow discharging battery behaves well but as mentioned given...

Generally it is best to buy a new 48v controller but that said needs to be compatible with your led/lcd so needs to be the same maker. You can try using the original controller if you know the voltage of the main inrush capacitor which has the voltage marked on it, if 63v then you can use your...

After all your works and perseverance Matt it's worth fitting one T/A, if the forks are steel then you don't need too but for piece of mind one is a good idea.

Bafang use Julet usually, you should see higo or julet embossed on the Xite connector. If it says julet then you should be good to go, as the pin outs should be standard for the branded connectors.

You have to extend solder a flying lead from the battery supply not direct from the battery, but from the wires on the battery receiver/holders mount on the bike. Also you can do the same from the feed wires off the controller if it is easier. If LP lives near you he might be able to help you...

Sugru may well keep cracking but as in your pic the cable entry goes south and has a nice drip loop so no need at all to seal the cable. Unless you go thru deep water you will not have any issues.

I also true on the bike and support the bike standing up and do the job with a cable tie as mentioned. A trueing stand may not accommodate an ebike wheel as the axle is larger dia, I made my own simple wooden version and it works perfectly.

Any 36v battery of the same size and fitting will work, just a case of finding the right one. Post a god pic or two of your model for help to finding one with measurements.

If the connectors are the same, pins outs should match. Julet to Higo will fit as they are compatible but pins outs are different so won't work unless wiring is changed.

For settings often to get in to them you have to depress +/- or up/down buttons together for approx. 10 secs, sometimes it's a different combo and may be the on/off button and on of the others.

Flecc is correct the lvc for 24 v will be much lower so you will need to monitor the voltage on you ride with a watt meter or wire in simple £2 volt meter as you don't really want to discharge below 34v. By going to 36v you will get 50% more speed and torque from the hub.

It will depend on the quality of the cells inside and their actual spec, they might be branded knock off cells or just cheap China cells in which case what you are seeing is to be expected. For sure at the mo they can't handle much load. Only opening the case will you only know what cells they...

Assist 1 I can attain the same speed as in assist 2 the only difference I find is that 1 is a lardy getting there.