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What battery do yo have or it specs. Currently your controller is 22a rated, you might be alright going to 30a controller but will depend on your battery other wise it might not cope with the extra amp draw.

It shouldn't do. What voltage lipo's are you using. If there's no power at the lcd then the fault is from battery to controller output. Check the battery discharge to make sure you have power, if so then you will have to take a look as I mentioned at the controller. Also do use a fuse between...

Generally it should be fine as long as you don't labour the hub or let it bog down at slow speed, high assist for hills and lower assist on the flat . Throttle will give max amp and watts to the wheel. At only 13a +/- 1a any battery should be good though as always buy one with the best cells...

Take a pic of the cells is there any writing on them ?

Even the top cells won't like a 10/12a charge rate all you are doing is killing the cells. You need to more modest and limit charging to 4/5a max. Your issue is both charging and discharging, to high charge rate and a totally mismatched bms discharge (60a) rating for the cells. You need a bms...

How did you wire up the lipo's are you sure you also haven't overvolted and blown the controller. Check the power poles for damage or shorting due to spark damage. The crack is the sound of the voltage rush as the capacitors charge up in the controller when connect up. Most likely cause is...

For bms no need to go for continuous 50/60a ones, if you read the bms specs carefully they will often have a min/ normal/ max over discharge rating as well. In most cases for ebikes a 20 - 30a continuous bms will suffice unless you are going for hot rodding and high amp discharge batteries.

For charging individual cells I manually use a 5v phone charger with the jack plug cut off and monitor the cell voltage with meter via the bms pins every 15-20 mins until voltage level is reached, then evry few mins as voltage gets near target voltage. On each wire end I solder on a short pin or...

For BMS I use AnnPower products from Aliexpress circa $20, no issues and batteries are kept balanced during charge and after discharge. https://annpower.aliexpress.com/store/group/BMS/623665_250784538.html?spm=2114.10010108.100008.1.47fa3347mrdcdZ Best to charge at low a rate for better cell...

Your kit is a throttle/pas kit like a lot of others though it has no led or lcd option. In your case it means searching ebay and other sites for a controller that has the 6 wire throttle option or a controller with any throttle option and no led/lcd. Before getting another beefier controller...

Mostly they do all the same thing, make the bike work. It is the communication from controller to lcd or led and then back to the controller again, if the software protocols don't speak to each other you get no commands.

Buying any old controller doesn't mean it will work as they have to be paired with a compatible lcd, you can't just mix and match as the programming is different from manufacturers.

The link doesn't link to your hub but it sounds as if you have a Direct drive hub and not a geared hub. In which case they are like chalk and cheese. Firstly you will need a good controller 35 - 40a rated and a battery that is capable of handling those amps continuously to get the best out of...

If speed matches quite well then no changes needed, you can go up or down the scale to see if it affects the pas pickup/motor timing. No harm or damage will be caused by doing so and you will also see the speed read out should be not as accurate. Hub performance may suffer if P1 value is...

That controller is not pas compatible and is for a scooter throttle only with other functions. To get more watts from a 36v hub use a 25 - 30a rated controller ignore any watts mentioned. Though the hub will want to be rated at 350w, 500w would be more ideal more ideal. Alternately you could...

:rolleyes: Radiator vents on a headset what ever next.

Hub motor is from Suzhou Shengyi Motor Co. http://www.syimotor.com/product.html SY = Shengyi, 73626 serial no, OL may be factory code, 0517 production date & S1 maybe the quality checker ? 87 suggests about 5:1 reduction ration and 16 magnets poles = p1 or 4.3 reduction and 20 magnet poles...

Welcome Nick, we like and have quite a few diyer's on board. Any issues or probs just post away however trivial and help is usually always available at most hours of the day.

IMHO any contamination of disc will also affect pad surface so I would clean both at the same time. Calliper is simply held by the two m5 bolts and pads usually retained by a split pin or small allen thru bolt. Refitting is simply the reverse to center the calliper hold front brake lever on...

You will most likely need to clean pad surface as well as disc/rotor surface. Isopropanol for the disc, for pads I use neat washing up liquid. Remove pads and rub them together between thumb and index fingers rinse and refit.