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4v voltage sag is down to crappy cells used inside the battery, you can't blame that on the hub until you try a better battery. I use mainly hubs motors and have little problem with hills, some hub motors are more capable then others. Though don't expect to romp up them at 15mph which is where...

Yep most likely the battery is done for use them or loose them. Lithium doesn't like to be left fully charged, something to do with the ions, when not in use they need to be at a storage charge 37- 38.5v is good. 40V means most likely one of the cell groups are dead or very low voltage wise...

Both are half price or so on Wiggle. 12 is £125/ 6 is £60 odd.

UK e bike electric assist limit is 15.5mph/25km/h, same as in EU, Japan, NZ and many other countries.

With 36v controllers some can take 48v if they have 63v main in rush capacitor, however the controllers will have low LVC cut off so not effective. You then rely totally on the battery bms to cut out which isn't a problem as most are set a bit higher then controllers any way. If you use a KT...

Not many hub kits are 48v, Woosh are starting to sell the odd version and Yose were selling one. If building a kit then it makes sense to go with KT dual voltage controllers which handle 36 or 48v. The main advantages of 48v is 25% more torque/acceleration and also the extra wh a battery can...

Mine turns on and works, all I need to know.

BMSBattery have Smart bms from $20 - $60 on top of that for $99 is a usb programmer that connects to them. No much info otherwise on if they can programme as well as the Speedict Neptune.

Pykies day out with added menace. They need to secure all display bikes much like Evans, go in to there Gatwick branch and all are cable looped to prevent this.

I run the Shimano m395 - m496 series of brakes on 5 bikes and non have given me issues and give solid braking with longer lever travel with worn pads.

The idea is to build/weld your new pack and connect the bms up in parallel before disconnecting it from the old cells.

Nothing to do with the hub, Dia-combe make bike components and looks like you have hub brakes.

Comms error code usually mean controller issue, they can be flaky on the BBS01. You will for sure have to remove the controller to have a look as mentioned and see if anything doesn't look right to the eye, other wise it is all potted in rubber latex. Fuse wise use a rating a bit more then the...

If no power to the lcd usually means a controller fault, some times the hall wire block connector has mating issue and can back out a little so you have to remove the controller to look. It is often gunged with white silicone so needs unplugging and silicone cleaned away and then refitted to...

Brake rotor ?

Good to hear now time to get some miles under your belt.

Speak to David Miall at Wisper bikes as they are designed for the heavier rider.

Can't tell make but it is a chunky looking diameter hub so should offer no problems with over volting a little and at 13a you are not hot rodding it, so I don't see to many issues. A lot on how it performs is dependant on the hub winding/rpm speed.

To now balance your pack you have to get to the bms and manually charge the low cells as I have mentioned so that they are all fairly equal voltage wise, discharge the pack some and then charge fully to 42v to see if it balances out ok. Under charging cause more issues then it solves without a...

If you are using 13p then no problems if the main battery leads have 3 or 4 contact points along the Paralleled buss bar to spread the load. 13P is a big battery and more liable for a buss bar bad connection, low voltage could be down to a poor connection on any parallel group. Just noticed...