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My four hubs have given very little issue apart from the odd new bearing (easy to replace) and a bit of grease at the same time, certainly less grief then the BBS 01 or the GSM have given me. Though expect the GSM with external controller would be better and not have any issues. China kits...

LBS or any other LBS doesn't physically repair a component part all they do is to diagnose the issue though diagnosis and then swap out any part if they have it in stock, other wise will order in from Germany or wherever in case of the drive unit wait until a replacement arrives after they have...

Controller could be faulty, I had a KT from a well known UK supplier that was faulty and failed, it also had the same julet connectors so I replaced with a dual voltage model form PSWPower. UK supplier never replied to my emails so in the end I went direct to China, the UK supplier I have never...

Don't rely on the Watt meter alone back up any voltage reading with a reliable working DVM. I had one of those black WM's and it was well out reading wise.

We need to see voltage readings, after a full charge and 3 or 4 hrs after a full charge once the battery has been left to sit. Also it might help if could see what the 10 parallel strings are reading at low voltage to ascertain if there is an issue with any of them or the bms. Other then check...

Not right the battery bms should be cutting out well before you see 25v on the lcd, 11v sag is awful. Cause could be a few factors. 1. A battery cell issue with either one or more poor cells. 2. A bad connection probably a parallel one. 3. A faulty bms/ lvc set to low not working correctly. Even...

Hopefully it is in sleep mode ;). Worse case is a cell group has drained below lvc preventing the BMS from switching on :(.

Crank drive then a GSMoon without integrated controller and mount separate suitable one in an underseat tool bag. For small suitable then a KT a 36/48 dual voltage model. For on road use a hub kit makes good sense, plenty options about and as Woosh has said parts are easier to get hold of and...

New stock of Yose hub kits on ebay from Elifeshop & YSB. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/elifeshop-2012?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/ysbattery-2012/m.html?ssPageName=STRK:MEFSXS:MESOI&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2654

That's why Aliexpress is good because UK suppliers if any would charge double if not more for the same item. Planning ahead and ordering, rather then doing it on the hoof is the way to go. Annpower sell good bms and genuine pure nickel. My recent Ann bms arrived a little over a week, the exact...

Edidie wioll be pleased :D, to see another Fogo user.

Sounds a bit like Bosch systems they don't recognise just any ol battery. Also the comms between charger and battery don't share the same protocols so are incompatible.

48v if you want a bit more speed. If going down the two bike route keep both systems with the same voltage and battery style for interchangeability. Hub wise for you a high torque bafang bpm /cst or SWX02 hub, from BMSBattery a Q128H or Q128C.

P1 set to 87 for near correct mph read out for most Bafang's. IIRC D/D hubs are set for P1 46 which will see over speed with a GH. For odo reading try P2 + 6 to read correct when freewheeling. For my sensored Bafang CST I used P2 + 6 for odo reading when free wheeling. For my other hubs it is...

Let us know the GH hub used. For correct odo reading you may have to adjust P1 to suit the motor characteristics and P2 will probably need to set to 1.

You can use any 36v 10s battery, ah just means more capacity/range. For 48v you have to open the controller to see if it will go pop or let off the magic smoke. If the main inrush capacitor is 50v then you can only use up to 12s 48v but limit the charge to 41.5v per cell, if the caps are 63 v...

No is the simple answer.

Might be C parameter setting C1. C1 should read 5, 6 or 7, use the one that works the best. Also is the BB shaft gripping the inner section of the pas correctly and spinning in unison with the cranks rotation ? Remove LH crank arm and check.

I have TL Schrader valves.

If running tubeless then low pressures aren't an issue, however if running with inner tubes you will undoubtedly end up with pinchs esp on the rear where the weight is heavier even on mtb tyres. With inner tubes fitted it is trial and error what you might get away with 35 - 40 psi may be the...