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The Copenhagen all in one concept is ok if it doesn't go wrong. The wheel it self is not exactly cheap, then there is all the excess weight circa 16+ lbs all at the rear. If the controller or battery develops a fault probably not very diyable to repair or to diagnose. Trike wheel size if you...

Different altogether, drive is not the same one and frame is also nowhere near the same. Similar design but altogether different.

Other issue to consider is the battery, poor cells will sag and loose capacity a lot quicker, even at 20a a good celled battery is better.

It is suitable for SLA and Lithium - ion/ lithium polymer, not suitable for Lithium iron phosphate aka LIFEPO4. It is suitable for up to 63v battery which means Lithium - ion 15S /15 cells in series, 15 X 4.2V = 63V.

Need to learn to read properly !!!

If you are changing controller make then more likely you will need a compatible lcd to go with it, the programming protocols are different and are often not mix and match.

This one looks quite nice and only 2 wire connection use for sla or lion/lipo up to 63v...

There ae 5 x 2000mah no name China blue 18650's inside. The 3ah pack uses the same no name brand but 10 x 1500mah 18650's.

Cell voltage would have caused the lvc to shut off so either voltage was getting low or voltage sag came in to play unless of course weak cells just crashed voltage wise. Used bms mat well have been faulty to start with , where did you acquire it from or was it an old one you had ?

Not d8veh. But yes, all the time a bms reads a cell voltage at below the lvc.

It has been fine on the Boardman and was running it at 13s with a 20a KT with no issues, I have also an Akiema Q128c laced in to a rim which I have swapped out to compare like for like on the same bike. Both hubs are good the Q is a little quieter other wise they both are very good and equal...

Don't forget this also includes Wheelies which was part of Tredz. Probably concerned by WIggle buying out CRC, Halfords probably needed to act for market share. Who's next ?

You have to be very careful with any bared wires or bits of Nickel strip, obviously you shorted some cells :eek:. :rolleyes: KFF comes to mind :p. Only strip one wire at a time and best to solder end feed charge and discharge connectors away from cells before soldering to cells.

I could see a 40c blue pair ( if they came in that colour) on my Blue coloured schemed Boardman , they would sit nice with my saddle.

Reconfigured you may still get a reasonable 13.2 or 15.6 ah battery, the 22P cell is 10a rated so some what better then the 22 or 26F's. It's not often you see 22P's used, though yours must have been a special at 19.8ah & 52v/14s.

Oh well 3 in 5 won't go. One extra one is probably another brake cut out and the other will be for remote switch pad.

Another option is to use a 17 or 20a KT controller and LCD with a GSMoon legally marked mid drive (the controller less version) , run it at 13s 48v with decent GA, MJ1 OR 30Q cells. From what I remember the GSM with internal controller had plenty of poke at 36v unrestricted and 28mph. I did had...

Bigstone C300 lcd. Connectors; Yellow = for throttle. Small black = for brake cut out sensor. Large multi pin black = for controller cable.

If you are going to play and reconfigure the Sam 22P battery chuck any cells that are low under 2.8v and consider the 3.49v may be ok once charged but won't really know until a load is put on them.

I have a used Oxydrive C302 lcd spare from my CST kit, the integrated controller went wrong so now I have gone over to using KT components. It has six pas levels and 3 current levels. P.M if of use or interested.