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I have bitsa Kona Blast frame which I built up. Small 17" frame but rides treat, front 26 wheel with bpm hub in a 700c fork with strong D/O's. 2 x front chain rings with Alfine 8 which I snagged brand new for £99 off ebay from Germany. I broke two derailleurs off roading so decided to give the...

Front wheel kits are ok but you might get some wheel slip on loose or wet soggy surfaces. You have to be careful with ali forks as often the drop outs aren't very strong and after a while some will stress and crack due to the motor torque. Steel forks are ok.

HDB are simple they are pretty well fit and forget, the only maintenance required is new pads depending on the bikes usage with no adjustment of cables needed. Occasionally when the pads get a little low an adjustment to the lever pull via a an adjuster or allen key. No cables to stretch or...

I prefer the torque sensing controllers like the KT that give more power in each assist level selected, the speed is quite linear and progressive. A gentle pedal rotation soon has you moving along and if you want a bit more just pedal harder. Throttle use is good too, if careful you can...

For your set up look for a good spec cell like Sanyo GA ( Aka Panasonic), Samsung 30Q, LGHG2 or MJ1. One option to consider; 30Q pack. http://enerprof.de/shop/batteries/ebike-and-pedelec-batteries/enerpower-softpack-48v-13s6p-18ah-with-bms-40a-pedelec-battery-10x8-diy/

Each pouch is/was 5ah, so 3 pouchs in each string is 15ah. Removing one won't help it will make things worse. Pouch cells tend to have a higher lvc then cylindrical as pouch chemistry is a bit more volatile if mistreated. Pouch cell voltage crashes very quickly below 3.5v, and within approx. 50m...

Problem I find with 700c O/R tyres is they tend to be skittish on the loose or wet/muddy tracks and the CX ones I have been using haven't been very puncture proof. I have fitted some new Scwalbe Smart Sam +s now and they are pretty good with nice grip and better puncture resistance. It is a...

TSDZ2 mid drive is torque sensor not pas. For Uk sourced legal hub drive then suggest looking at the 48v SWX02 kit from Woosh bikes.

From my experience pouch cells act differently and IR tends set in quicker then cylindrical cells affecting voltage sag and unbalanced cells, pouch packs can be less predictable. Any puffed cells will be an indication of a pouch going bad with a IR higher then others. Each string has 3 pouches...

Like d8veh I was only thinking of 18650/cylindrical cells,pouch polymer cells are different. I don't think you are seeing anything unusual except maybe consider they are past their best and time to use a cylindrical celled battery with high spec cells.

With charging once a cell hits 4.2v the bms will cease charging and go into balance mode, a varying discrepancy in voltages may be the reason why the battery remains unbalanced. The cells aren't discharging very linearly with 0.1v - 0.3v throughout, the bms may be a crappy one. As mentioned...

String #7 is the main culprit 3.6v is the resting voltage but it will have seen greater voltage sag and caused the lvc to act. What are the cells used or cell specs and bike details (ie. motor / controller rating). Cause of unbalance could be caused by a few reasons. Bad/poor cells, bms...

One or two have tried and successfully registered their builds, most don't bother probably 99.99%. In Northern Ireland you have to register due to the assemblies incompetence when it was sitting.

The EAPC law has been applicable since 1983.

The bike comes with a Certificate of Conformity so registration should be easier, under UK/EU law it isn't classed as an EAPC the drive motor is rated 750w. A switch to make it a sheep in wolf's clothing doesn't count. There is no UK S Pedelec class so it would have to be registered and licensed...

The lishui controller as used for Hailong batteries like that has a set max speed, in your case there is no extra white data programming cable. Data cable is useless unless the software is available to re-programme along with PC cable to connect. They are more fool proof then other...

If after a ride #1 or esp 7 are much lower then the others by more then 0.3v then the cells are either poor or the weld nickel contact may be bad so check carefully both sides. If a bad nickel weld then one or two cells in a P string won't be charging or discharging correctly, the string will...

The battery is out of balance, parallel string #1 & 7 are especially so (out of balance), the bms is doing it's job and the lvc is shutting the battery down. Charge and ride again, measure the cell voltages before charging to see if any cell strings are crashing or if all are dropping linearly...

Battery is not compatible and doesn't have the comms protocol to communicate with the controller.

Test a new AA,AAA, PP3 etc,etc if the voltage is weird put a new battery in your meter.