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I used no flats (joes) once in tubes, to be honest for what use it was I may just as well pissed in the tubes instead.

The difference here then is my 20a Luishi controller is torque control and sited remotely and Anthoney's HL controller integrated (17a ?) is speed control the speed difference is in the programming or a gearing difference.

No need to buy adapters, just order /buy a prebled levere/caliper all in one so ne messing with any bleeding or oil/fluid to buy. Shimano basic style m395/445/446 hdb's are pretty well good for not much ££s.

No much chance of me getting out during the whole weekend, busy with the bees (a.m) and working Friday to Sunday (p.m) inc and again today busy with the bees again, problem with the bees is it's something I can't put off as need to prep them for Autumn/Winter while the weather is good...

It does look a little like a mess :eek:, just depends on if the rear stays/dropouts are bent or damaged, though looking at the mid drive backwards it does look like the frame is bent (or an optical illusion). If they are ok looks like a new wheel and rack is needed only. Battery and mid drive...

I have the front wheel kit and KM J-Lcd will do just over 19mph on pas 3.

My cst is derestricted. I use pas 3 sometimes 2, level 4 & 5 are for hills where the extra torque is very noticeable.

With my Q128c I tend to use 7th the most as I can spin nicely for 18-19 mph and 8th once I get a nice rythm going on a straight with up to 21mph under perfect conditions. 9th barely used as I can't get a decent cadence/rpm going and actually makes be slower so this is used for descents mainly...

A new fuse should solve the issue what rating was used previously. Another thought is to why it blew ? A possible wire short or a power spike?

Incidentally I forgot one important thing, your controller will only accept an LCD if it has a 5 wire plug. We need to see a clear pic of all your wiring connectors from the controller, alternatively it may be possible to add the 5 wires/connector by soldering to your pcb. Thee LCD wiring wise...

My first port of call would be to check that the battery is out putting a sensible voltage with a DVM. It's ok saying it's charged but if for some reason there's a internal fault it may not output voltage, a blown fuse or defective battery switch are two possible starting points. Test and check...

The controller is Luishi. Woosh use them with King meter lcd's. You could try contacting Woosh to see if they would sell & programme a LCD for you to communicate with your controller or buy a 15/17a KT controller and LCD from PSWPower.com. Baring in mind some connectors may not be compatible...

Bosch packs have reached their limit with 18650, 3450mah 10a rated cells (500wh). Their limit is the battery pack size at 10s4p whilst other shark type large packs vary from 621 - 745 wh. Currently with 18650 there is a trade off between amp rating and capacity with cells, the cells can have...

A ready made bike makes sense as generally they are a neater finished product, though you are stuck with the choice of drive unit. The Bewo a copy of the Bafang BBS, you need to google the motor for reviews and spares may be an issue. A BBS or Tongsheng mid drive may be a better bet one a...

In another way you can have 260rpm approx. in a Q128. Over volt the 201/36 @ 48v you get approx. 30% more speed so it runs at 265/268rpm, or run the 48v at 36v to get a similar result but not quite as efficient.

The bb shell width will be a std 68 or 73mm, the only reason I see for such a long spindle is for very wide rear stays !!!. If the cranks arms are a sq taper fit and the pedals thread is no good all it requires is a pair of new crank arms and if he can't find a pair of arms to fit you could...

I think he was in Germany, Higo do a 6 pin mini B which some one posted a link to for a German supplier but the 6 pin didn't have the same flat side to it.

147.8mm is the o/a width of the spindle, quite a long size. 127/132 mm is about the most common sealed longer ones available, on ebay you may find one, they require separate loose bearings. If yours is one of these type then maybe new bearings can be just fitted ? A pic is also useful.

Pop, Oh dear :(. Most certainly a can (capacitor) has blown, usually identified at the time by a cordite type smell. It may be possible to solder a new can if you know the spec of it if its the only damage other wise a new controller. There will be fibre everywhere when you open the controller...

On this page of the long ES thread someone bought an extension cable, I'm still working my way throught pages so no idea where he got it from. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&sid=bcc5005a30a25084e7f000ed176cba3a&start=175