BBS01

[minexplorer]

I am glad you have done that it saves me tomorrows job I suspect that due to failures of controllers under warranty a change has been made to all bbs01 think of the heat of 18 /20amps in the motor if it bogs down and blows the controller that's why the bbs hd is a total different beast larger and dissipates heat better

Yet it is precisely when you push the motor in high gear on inclines that it then gives that 18amps.
it stands the whole point of the programming tool on its head.tho mainly how the KEEP current setting works. i never noticed the power ramp up speed or raising start current settings make any difference either.Or changing between current/speed on the throttle.

What do you think of the throttle performing like PAS rather than providing full power? thats a serious bummer. makes the programming tool feel a bit useless. Its this that im dissapointed with really,the rest is probably not so bad,its not like im losing speed when the amps drop.the controller is doing its job saving fuel so to speak.

I dont think anyone else is seeing this as its not on a dedicated thread for the subject. more people need to chip in with their findings with programming. Fordulike are you out there? you first advised me ages ago to get a programming cable and set the KC to 100%. Have you noticed this PAS/throttle behaviour with your programming or Is this just the latest controllers ?

 

[vfr400]

Don't forget that there are two things that regulate the maximum current to the motor. The controller can only regulate it at low pedal speed. After that, your pedal speed regulates it. The faster you pedal, the less current you get. No settings can change that, except make it worse.

 

[minexplorer]

Don't forget that there are two things that regulate the maximum current to the motor. The controller can only regulate it at low pedal speed. After that, your pedal speed regulates it. The faster you pedal, the less current you get. No settings can change that, except make it worse.

im not seeing full current even at very low cadence.just going lower still at high cadence as designed to. if it was working as we understand it you should get the full amps for the PAS level selected when peddling very slowly, whatever the KC .and at 100% KC it shouldnt drop even if you spin the pedals like a windmill.thats how i understood it .

if the newer controllers are different to the older ones i dont mind.just want 100% on the throttle like my bbshd one does.

 

[vfr400]

im not seeing full current even at very low cadence.just going lower still at high cadence as designed to. if it was working as we understand it you should get the full amps for the PAS level selected when peddling very slowly, whatever the KC .

Correct

and at 100% KC it shouldnt drop even if you spin the pedals like a windmill.thats how i understood it .

Incorrect. No controller in the world can get any current through that motor when the crank is spinning at 100 RPM. According to this, you should be able to get good power up to about 70 rpm, after which it ramps down rapidly.

Source: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=58780&start=575

 

[peter.c]

So it boils down to thrash a bbs01 and ring its neck and run it on its limit or get bbs02 500/750watt and push it hard or bbshd cruise gently higher torque

 

[minexplorer]

Correct


Incorrect. No controller in the world can get any current through that motor when the crank is spinning at 100 RPM. According to this, you should be able to get good power up to about 70 rpm, after which it ramps down rapidly.

Source: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=58780&start=575

thats very interesting i didnt know that. Well now ive finally got a display that shows the current ,seeing the amps drop right down with no loss of speed or increased effort needed im very happy with it again.

ive also upped to the full 20 amps and thats definately helping when the controller needs it. 100% KC still gives more power than 60% which never let the bike achieve its highest power, but is still operating economically too,excellent.

The only small letdown is the throttle is not able to give a power boost when needed.only good for take off and manouvering and ploughing through flooded paths when my feet are around my ears. ie; if im up to speed on the flat and the PAS is only ticking over at 2-4 amps and i change to throttle it too only gives 2-4amps no whoosh of 20amp power.As ive said before not like my bbshd throttle which gives constant 30amps when held down.

 

[vfr400]

With a normal bike, you have to increase your pedal speed to get more power, which you might do by changing down a couple of gears. It's similar with a car or motorbike, when you change down to get a burst of acceleration for overtaking, but with a crank-drive electric bike, you often need to decrease RPM to get a burst of power. Next time you need a boost from the throttle, try changing up a gear at the same time to see if it helps.

 

[minexplorer]

With a normal bike, you have to increase your pedal speed to get more power, which you might do by changing down a couple of gears. It's similar with a car or motorbike, when you change down to get a burst of acceleration for overtaking, but with a crank-drive electric bike, you often need to decrease RPM to get a burst of power. Next time you need a boost from the throttle, try changing up a gear at the same time to see if it helps.

Yes ive noticed putting the bike in higher gear causes higher amps draw on both PAS and throttle,as does climbing hills. the steepest hills yesterday was pulling 19-20amps on 2/3rd from bottom gear.soon as i dropped to bottom gear and/or pedaled harder the amps dropped off a few. Regarding the throttle though ive been reading elsewhere the v2.1.1.1 firmware on the latest 2016? controllers changed its operation.older v1.0.0.1 firmware controllers outputted full throttle. this is what changed when i got the controller replaced under warranty last year after a fault.seems theres no solution.