Warning.... long passionate post
We have always flown into Gib rather than go across the border from Spain. The runway was built during the second world war (reclaimed from the sea) built on a small race horse course that use to be there. It’s quite an experience flying in as planes are not allowed to fly in Spanish air space, so come round the rock and bank hard before landing on the short airstrip at the Spanish end. Any mistake and you are in the drink!
After landing they shut the runway whilst everyone drives/walks from the Spanish side of the runway across it to get to Gibs main land mass.
When I lived there, to get to Spain (the border was closed) you had to take a boat to Tangiers and then one back to Spain. It was very sad watching families on both sides of the border with binoculars looking and shouting across the divide to each other.
I do not think La Linea is very nice. We have been across to the market on our trips but you have to keep your hand firmly on your wallet/purse. The Spanish go through spells when they hold up cars at their end causing hours of delays just to make the point that they want Gib. Its best to walk. As you say the Spanish, Gibraltarian, UK feud has been going on for ages. At school there I learnt a lot about it. Gibraltarians consider themselves Gibraltarian first, British next and do not and claim they never will entertain Spanish citizenship at all. Their Spanish dialect is so different that Spaniards do not understand them or visa versa unless they are swearing at each other. The UK has tried to dump Gib back onto Spain a few times but they cannot do it unless the population vote to. They have tried that without success, even threatening to take away the very advantageous VAT free and tax breaks that exists there. In many ways its turned into a Hong Kong. Property there is now booming, its front side marinas being build and populated by the rich and wealthy incl many ex Russian arms dealers. It is also a gambling mega with both worldwide online and physical casinos racking money in.
Again although very touristy, (I love walking up and down the main high street where as a boy we first rented a flat over a busy shop), round the quieter side of the Rock it is very nice. When I was a kid all the main traffic tunnels were open so you could go drive right round the Rock. There were also many small man sized sub tunnels which were built to assist in construction of the main tunnels, which as kids we played in. They were unlit and very scarry. Now you can only go one way as the end tunnel is shut (or was last time I was there). The guy that designed/built (blasted out) the road tunnels was awarded a medal for building them so fast. They were later shut whilst unexploded chargers he had left where then removed! They also now have regular problems with collapses.
When we go we walk everywhere including up and down the Rock or taking the cable car. The views are simply stunning. The main Ape enclosure (the ones that were managed by the British Army when they were there) were free. Maybe now they charge. Be sure to visit the natural St Michael's caves. Human remains have been found there that date back thousands of years. BTW there is folk law that says when the Apes leave the Rock so will the British and or the Rock will slide into the Mediterranean.
In addition to the The Great Seige Tunnels where cannons where placed and pointed down to blast the Spaniards (see picture above), you can now visit the old Second World War tunnels that have been opened up. You have to pay a guide to take you but it is worth it. At the height of the war over 5000 service men and women were stationed and living "hidden" inside the Rock in miles of tunnels that were dug out. This was in preparation for a planned invasion of North Africa though I am not sure if it ever happened.
Gib is steeped in history and despite being back there over five times since I lived there as a boy, I always find something new. If you are interested in the Second World War many gun emplacements and fortresses remain to this day.
Finally, I lived out towards the other end of the Rock by the Trinity run lighthouse which then was manned (by my best friend’s dad) and is now automated. All this talk has me on the verge of booking another trip there this year.
To keep it on topic, maybe I will take my EBrompton there to test it out up and down the road that leads to the top of the Rock. I could always take it up in the cable car and free wheel all the way down
Regards
Jerry