BMS Q100C 36V350W conversion kit

D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
The Q100 doesn't work too well sensorless. You should have got the S06S, which can use the hall sensors, which will give it a smooth start-up

Your controllet gives 15A at about 40V, so power used is 600w. It will achieve about 80% efficiency, so max output power will be 480W. The Emotion runs at 20A , so 33% more power.

As I said before, the orientation of the magnets is important. Did you copy the original configuration? Also, the5 gap mustn't be more than a couple of mm.
 

chris196

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 2, 2014
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0
59
Again, thanks for the information.
I did copy the magnets as closely as I could. The gap is very small, almost touching. But, I will say it's not perfect. They are not exactly spaced evenly as this was not possible due to the bolts holding the small ring on. Eventually, I'll get a ring with more magnets and remove the small ring all together and get it dialed in.

It's disappointing to hear that about the controller. It's the controller which came with the kit as a bundle. Had I known that, I would probably have made a different choice. I went with the kit for the exact reason that I wasn't sure what to get in the first place.

I'm curious to know where you saw the spec of the emotion at 20A. I don't see that on their website. I see 350W. Again, I got the kit I did because it appeared to me to also be speced at 350W. I thought I was getting something which would pretty closely match the emotion bike.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
It's not the spacing of the magnets thats important, but the orientation must be the same. Did you check that?

You can get a few more amps out of your controller by adding some solder to the shunt. Unfortunately, you've chosen quite a weak battery. You could go higher if you had a high discharge rate one.
 

chris196

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 2, 2014
23
0
59
By orientation, do you mean the poles?
I was careful to mark which end of the magnet was the exposed side while in the ring. Then, when I glued them on, I kept that orientation the same. I did assume that all the poles faced the same way.
The one thing which is slightly off is how many degrees away from each other each magnet is spaced. I could not maintain that completely because of the drive ring mounting bolts.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
That won't matter as long as you put them all the right way. Check each magnet wiyh another one to make sure that you got the poles correct.
 

chris196

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 2, 2014
23
0
59
I went ahead and purchased the S06S and fitted it today.
I hooked it up based on the diagram as best I could. I did not find anything on how the hall sensor wires should be connected, so I hooked them up matching color from the motor to the 6 input plug on the controller. There is an extra white wire coming from the motor which I did not see any where to hook up. Something must be hooked up wrong as now the motor will start then not continue. This is true in either throttle mode or PAS mode.
I did get a new PAS kit and it seems to be working, but hard to tell because the motor won't stay running. I say it appears to be working because either PAS or throttle produce the same result of the motor initially starting, then either not continuing or being very jerky.

Any help is appreciated.
 

chris196

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 2, 2014
23
0
59
Another update.
I now have things working as I expected. I had a bad connection on one of the hall sensor wires from the motor. For anyone interested, it was a direct color match wiring of the hall sensor connections. The white wire is not connected. I found a reference in another thread that this is a temperature sensor wire from the motor. I don't know if that's correct or not, but it is not hooked up in my setup.

The PAS is working now. I have removed the small ring and put the magnet disk in it's place. I also just removed my front shifter and derailleur and now have a 1x9 setup. If I would have done that in the first place, it would have saved many headaches. As a side note, does anyone know if there are magnet disks specifically designed for the octalink bottom bracket. I had to drill out the inside of the disk to fit over the spindle.

It's a much smoother start with no stuttering with the sine wave hall sensor controller as d8veh said.

In the end it's now working as I wanted. My only disappointment is the speed is not great as we've already been through.

d8veh,
I asked you earlier, but never saw an answer. You said the emotion bike my wife tried had a 20A battery and controller. I looked through their specs and didn't find any references to that. Where did you find that information.

As a side note, I was able to test ride a Stromer ST2 the other day. Quite a machine, but expensive and heavy.