Help! Brainpower controller and S886 display problems

aaronsace

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 22, 2020
9
1
FYI, the hall sensor is not actually required; it's just for the speedometer etc.

All motors are just 3 wires.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
19,991
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West Sx RH
In response to VFR400 note of July 19th
My motor runs smoothly in walk mode - no rasping noise, I've double checked all the connections to ensure they are good.
I can make it learn forward or backward rotation with the learning wires, but that's all I get, I never get a poor rotation.
regardless of if I have the hall sensors connected or not I get the same result - only runs in walk mode. (original set up did not use the hall connections and ran very well

As my earlier image I'm getting a good 12 pulses per rev from the PAS but neither the PAS or using a staple to pulse a signal without the PAS makes the motor run.

Also shorting the throttle does not make the motor run (but I am getting the 5V on the signal wire)

So I believe the motor is OK and I have a controller fault perhaps
I've now sent the controller back to Amazon as the 1 month return period was up.

Can anyone suggest a controller and LCD display kit I can try next to suit this 36V battery and 250W swytch motor? Ideally one that does not need hall connection as it originally did not use these connections

Thanks,
Barry
Have you tried vfr's trick of removing every other PAS disc magnet to try and see if that does the trick ?
 

Sivs

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 27, 2020
14
0
Get a KT square wave controller and LCD3, Aliexpress, TBK, GBK, PSWPower or BMS battery and others, go China direct as that is where they all come.
Thanks very much Nealh
I have ordered the KT controller and lcd3 from pswpower I can see on their website that it suits no hall connection so fingers crossed this will work - I don’t suppose somewhere on the site there is a list of compatible motors controllers etc?
Thanks again Sivs
 

Sivs

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 27, 2020
14
0
Have you tried vfr's trick of removing every other PAS disc magnet to try and see if that does the trick ?
I did not try that as I have the sealed PAS unit which you cannot remove the magnets
Also I’m getting a very good square wave output from the pas even at low cranking speed
Waiting for the new controller now
Thanks Sivs
 

Sivs

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 27, 2020
14
0
I did not try that as I have the sealed PAS unit which you cannot remove the magnets
Also I’m getting a very good square wave output from the pas even at low cranking speed
Waiting for the new controller now
Thanks Sivs
I did not try that as I have the sealed PAS unit which you cannot remove the magnets
Also I’m getting a very good square wave output from the pas even at low cranking speed
Waiting for the new controller now
Thanks Sivs
OK so now I have got the new KT Square wave controller and display from China and have just tried it
Frustratingly I still have a very similar problem
The motor runs ok in walk mode but nothing with PAS input
Measuring the signal to ground I am still getting a very good 12 pulse per rev square wave as per attachment but no motor rotation I think I’ll buy the suggested replacement PAS as it is only £12 but not sure if it will work
I have also tried simulating a throttle connecting the +5v to the signal and the motor makes a tiny movement (approx 1/20th of a rev) if I leave it applied there is no more rotation and after about a second I get error 01 “throttle abnormality “
Motor runs smooth in walk mode
My battery is giving only 33.2v but I’m thinking it should be ok?
Any ideas?
 

Sivs

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 27, 2020
14
0
OK so now I have got the new KT Square wave controller and display from China and have just tried it
Frustratingly I still have a very similar problem
The motor runs ok in walk mode but nothing with PAS input
Measuring the signal to ground I am still getting a very good 12 pulse per rev square wave as per attachment but no motor rotation I think I’ll buy the suggested replacement PAS as it is only £12 but not sure if it will work
I have also tried simulating a throttle connecting the +5v to the signal and the motor makes a tiny movement (approx 1/20th of a rev) if I leave it applied there is no more rotation and after about a second I get error 01 “throttle abnormality “
Motor runs smooth in walk mode
My battery is giving only 33.2v but I’m thinking it should be ok?
Any ideas?
C3E99265-03CF-4CFA-A380-848AF9485BA6.jpeg
 

Sivs

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 27, 2020
14
0
Hi thanks
To be clear I tested with the PAS on the PAS wires
And then a second test on the throttle connection I shorted the red to signal as per your earlier suggestion to simulate full throttle
The KT controller does not seem to have the same options for setting up either PAS control or throttle or both but I assume it is always set to both
Leaflet attached for KT controller1B53D0D8-9496-48FF-983D-7456D7A73848.jpeg6B84F188-44EF-44DD-B630-F992EF0BE434.jpegA96D19EC-7655-4868-8028-328251AF4D4A.jpeg
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,985
Basildon
Hi thanks
To be clear I tested with the PAS on the PAS wires
And then a second test on the throttle connection I shorted the red to signal as per your earlier suggestion to simulate full throttle
The KT controller does not seem to have the same options for setting up either PAS control or throttle or both but I assume it is always set to both
Leaflet attached for KT controllerView attachment 37658View attachment 37659View attachment 37660
You'll have to list all your P and C parameter settings (L if you have them) so we can check them.
 

Sivs

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 27, 2020
14
0
You'll have to list all your P and C parameter settings (L if you have them) so we can check them.
OK Thanks again for the help
With my manual I had no idea how to get to the P & C parameter settings, however I found a good one published by bizobike, so I have been able to get in and make some changes, which has now given me a running motor with PAS. At the moment I have the bike hung up in the garage and with the settings below i get the following:
Walk mode 3.9 mph (which equates correctly to my wheel speed)- this seems OK about 6kph
But running in PAS level 5 with no load (front wheel in the air) I only get 6.9mph which is too slow?
SETTINGS
Max speed 25 kph / Wheel size 27.5 (as per my bike)
P1 87 (controller default, motor magnets x ratio) - mine is a geared motor marked "Swytch", but I don't know the true value
P2 1 think this is correct as speed display is correct and I'm getting 1 pulse per rev on the white wire from the wheel
P3 1 "imitation torque control"?? should I use 0 for speed control?
P4 0 I don't have a throttle so this is OK?
P5 0 - real time voltage for power monitoring other settings seem to show flat battery
C1 03 12 magnet sensor which I have
C2 0 Motor classification?
C3 3 Powers up with level 3 assist
C4 0 I don't have throttle so assume this does not matter
C5 10 max current
C6 3 backlight level
C7 0 cruise off
C8 0 motor temp off
C9 0 password off
C10 n
C11 0 to suit LCD3 controller
C12 4 (min controller voltage 30V)

I'm thinking I my need to change P1 and or P3?
I tried P1 set at 180 and got a no load speed of 9.9 mph

Thanks again in advance
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
19,991
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P1 go with it for now no reason why it should be far out, set the max speed to 25kmh then ride with a gps to see how far out it is first.
P3 No leave it as current control.
P5 12 for real time battery state, the bars will go down under high current load then rebound when load is reduced.
C2 leave alone.
C3 Starts up in PAS level indicated by the value number. If you select 8 it will auto use the last PAS level yo selected.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
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Basildon
They all look OK to me, so that's not the problem. There are compatibility issues with the 12 magnet PASs, so always check with the throttle. When that's working, you can sort out the PAS.

The throttle abnormality code comes up when the controller detects a non-zero throttle signal when switched on. Is that what happened?
 

Gerard

Just Joined
Nov 27, 2022
1
1
I had the same problem using the PAS mode and that the motor would not start. I found that on the PAS sensor mounted on my bike, the signal was switching between 0 and 4.3V. When testing the controller PAS input, unconnected to the PAS sensor, the sensor line was at 5V and when switching the sensor line to ground using a test wire, the motor started running. Switching back to the PAS sensor the motor would not run. So the controller requires a signal switching between 5V and ground, and does not work with a signal switching between 4.3V and ground. In order to make it work with the existing PAS sensor, I added a simple NPN signal transistor (BC547) and a 4k7 resistor. This inverts the sensor signal and it ensures the signal switches between 5V and gnd. PAS sensor line to 4K7 resistor, 4K7 resistor to the base of the transistor. Emitter connected to gnd. Collector to PAS sensor line of the controller. I put the little circuit in a shrink sleeve filled with silicone kit. Works fine now.
 
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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Resurrecting this old thread as a guy opposite me who rents the proprerty has a step thru with a B/W controller & s866 lcd that isn't working , he knows nothing about eapc's but the landlord knows me and told him to give me a shout.

I have had the bike on the bike stand and get nothing from the bike , S866 also shows E07 .
I am getting the PAS led strobing on/off but no action from the motor, even walk assist not working.
Looks like a controller failure as I have motor resistance rotating the motor wheel backwards when carrying out a motor Hall test (motor halls ok), this frees up when controller is disconnected. Carried out a mosfet check on the controller but both low & high side check out ok,
P settings also look good to me so I stripped out the controller and temp wired up a KT one , exsisting pas still not working but walk assist works ok. Found another PAS in my spares so simply plugged it in and waved the disc passed the sensor and the motor works.
Now need to order up a new smaller controller kit to fit in the rack battery compartment and the bike will be good to go for it's owner.

Tbh these crappy brainwaves aren't worth the aggro and one is simply best to bite the bullet and install a KT from the get go.
For testing I used a 9 mosfet controller and a basic lcd2 which has some 5k miles on the odo and the bike worked straight off without any C setting changes.
 
Last edited:
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sjpt

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 8, 2018
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a guy opposite me who rents the proprerty has a step thru with a B/W controller & s866 lcd that isn't working
I think he was lucky to have rented that property.