Brake sensor constantly on

[Chris Maluszynski]

I was told I need a 17a controller. This is for an old Wisper bike with a 250w motor that will now be fitted with a 48v battery. I have the LCD5. And the case needs to fit in the space on the bike so can’t be much bigger. How much bigger are the newer boxes? The connectors should ideally be the same as the ones I have to avoid more headaches

 

[Nealh]

6 fet one in mm is 62 x 34 x 108, 9 fet is 66 x 38 x 138 then you have the wiring out of one end.
You can lose 8mm off the length by cutting the little bracket off.

At 48v the 6 fet can get uncomfortably very hot if you use high assist climbing for a while or ride slowly up an incline, thermal cut out occurs until the fets temp cools down. The fets use the ali body as a heat sink but it is not enough unless ran in open air or is in direct contact to an even larger heat sink such as the bikes frame.

Connector wise you have to look at the controller you are buying to compare them to your existing connectors if reusing parts.
KT controllers listed usually always have a legend showing wire connector type, wire colours and wire pin order. It is not a given for a like to like match if replacing a different controller. If you have to change connectors there is appoint as vfr will tell you, you don't need connectors and to solder and heat shrink together.

 

[Chris Maluszynski]

Crap. The space is only 120mm long, so the bigger one won't fit.
Guess I'm stuck trying to get an identical one that actually works.

 

[Chris Maluszynski]

Before I completely give up and order a new controller:
I just realized that the LCD (KT-LCD5) has parameter settings that I did not know about. (the manual that came with the kit said nothing about that)
Could there be anything in those settings that could help me here? There are settings as motor characteristics, wheel speed pulse signal, etc.

 

[Nealh]

The main P & C settings are all the same so nothing to do with brakes.

 

[Chris Maluszynski]

Spent the last two weeks in a conversation with PSW power trying to get them to replace the controller but am now giving up and buying a new one. The question is though: I was originally recommended to get the 17A one (motor is 250w or maybe 350). But maybe I could also get the 20A controller if that makes any difference? Battery is 48V

 

[kbmetal]

When you pull the brake, it closes the switch, so the symbol comes on and the power goes off.

Let me explain it again. There is an input to the micro-prosessor. It can be 0v (low) or 5v (high. That's all the MP looks for and bases its decisions on. That input is connected directly to the same 5v as the throttle and other sensors, but there is a high value resistor between it and the 5V so it will show 5v, but if you try and draw any current, it will go to zero, which can happen when you measure it with a meter - even a digital one. When you operate the brake switch, it's shorted to ground, so it goes immediately to 0V.

You can check the 5v on the throttle, hall sensors or PAS red wires. They're all connected directly to the 5V regulator, so no chance of meter errors, though you will sometimes see it as low as 4.7v. If it's very low, like 3.7v, there's a short on the 5V somewhere.

The symbol on the LCD comes when the controller sends a data command to the LCD to show it. It's highly unlikely that that can happen by mistake, through not impossible.

I am confronted now with exactly that problem. Controller of a TRANZ X bike was broken. Replaced it by a chinese kit with LCD. Everything is running smootly. Only the power brake is inversed. I have been measuring 0V on contact with magnet and 5V (4.3V) when brake is drawn. (contact opens) I could try to invert that signal. Any proposals?

 

[SpanishFlyer]

With the wheel & motor kit I received a couple of brake levers That I can't use since they are cable type and the bike has hydraulic brakes, but no signal wires to the controller. I went ahead and purchased two magnet type sensors and proceeded to install them. Problem is that the moment I connected them, the motor would not run and I also get a warning light on the screen. If I remove them the warning goes and the motor runs perfectly.

The levers that came with the kit, have a small microswitch that allows current through when the lever is pressed; I have no idea how the magnetic type work, but right now with the lever pressed (or released), they are activating the motor stop feature.
Are there different sensor operating methods? My bike has only two wires per brake/connector and the magnetic type I installed exactly the same connector that fits perfectly on the terminals from the controller.
By the way, the bike does really need the motor stop feature, since I tried it this morning and the motor keeps on going for a few seconds before releasing the wheel; pretty dangerous when needing to stop fast...
Any clues??
Best regards

 

[vfr400]

With the wheel & motor kit I received a couple of brake levers That I can't use since they are cable type and the bike has hydraulic brakes, but no signal wires to the controller. I went ahead and purchased two magnet type sensors and proceeded to install them. Problem is that the moment I connected them, the motor would not run and I also get a warning light on the screen. If I remove them the warning goes and the motor runs perfectly.

The levers that came with the kit, have a small microswitch that allows current through when the lever is pressed; I have no idea how the magnetic type work, but right now with the lever pressed (or released), they are activating the motor stop feature.
Are there different sensor operating methods? My bike has only two wires per brake/connector and the magnetic type I installed exactly the same connector that fits perfectly on the terminals from the controller.
By the way, the bike does really need the motor stop feature, since I tried it this morning and the motor keeps on going for a few seconds before releasing the wheel; pretty dangerous when needing to stop fast...
Any clues??
Best regards

You've got the magnet in the wrong position. Check what happens to the switch when you bring the magnet to it. Does it go on or off? Whatever it is, you have to arrange the magnet so that the switch goes on when you operate the brake., which might mean that the magnet has to come to the sensor when braking, not away from it, or vice versa.

 

[Andy230262]

I had a few issues with them and in the end I removed them . Haven’t had any problems as the hydraulic discs are more then enough to stop the bike and I stop peddling when I am braking . Less wires as well.