Crank Drive Motor Clunking Noise

Woosh

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Still same comment.
You can add a small, lightweight rear hub motor like the one on the Woosh Karoo, and run it on throttle alone, then you may steal power from the Bosch battery to power the rear hub motor. It's lightweight and easy to do.
 

Andy88

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You will have a bike that is about 5-6 kg heavier than any other e-bike and it won't be street legal. The BBS has an internal controller already of course...
Wouldn't that depend on the original weight if the bike?

Legal aspect, it would be interesting to see a case, I wouldn't say the legality is set in stone but I tend to agree with you.

However isn't it based on continuous power output? If both Motors are 250w how would the actual power output be measured?
 

Andy88

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Still same comment.
You can add a small, lightweight rear hub motor like the one on the Woosh Karoo, and run it on throttle alone, then you may steal power from the Bosch battery to power the rear hub motor. It's lightweight and easy to do.
Now that is very interesting, how about the New G06 that u are using on the new Crusa? That's a nifty motor and not too far behind the BPM correct me if I'm wrong.

So if it is a Bosch or Yamaha or Steps bike and we added a hub, your advice would be to put it on the back wheel as opposed to the front?

How would the gearing and shifters be affected?
 

Woosh

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Now that is very interesting, how about the New G06 that u are using on the new Crusa? That's a nifty motor and not too far behind the BPM correct me if I'm wrong.

So if it is a Bosch or Yamaha or Steps bike and we added a hub, your advice would be to put it on the back wheel as opposed to the front?

How would the gearing and shifters be affected?
We only sell a small range of kits because support for small number of units would be a nightmare to organize. So if you want to investigate this route, I can only make general comments, you will have to get the parts on the internet. Also, splicing the power line of your brand new Bosch bike will certainly void your warranty.
The rear motor gives better traction and stealthy look, especially when the battery is on the downtube.
 
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Andy88

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We only sell a small range of kits because support for small number of units would be a nightmare to organize. So if you want to investigate this route, I can only make general comments, you will have to get the parts on the internet. Also, splicing the power line of your brand new Bosch bike will certainly void your warranty.
The rear motor gives better traction and stealthy look, especially when the battery is on the downtube.
You guys at woosh are on point, I really like your approach to the market.

I'll figure out exactly which way I want to go then go and see you in person.
 

Andy88

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Dave, your input is extremely valued, its very easy for a newbie like me to get confused, I know I ask a lot of questions here on the forum and where possible I try to give constructive input.

Through this medium I can clearly see that there are no hard set rules in terms of which system is better than another, the way I see it there are just too many variables to give definitive answers.

What these threads and comments by knowledgeable people such as yourself do is enable beginners like me to dissect the information and make better judged decisions before setting foot in a bike shop.

There are some outstanding dealers out there and some rogues as well but knowledge gained from this forum is king and I am grateful for it.
 

Andy88

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Funnily enough the link works, those guys are very good but usa based so a lot of bikes and 750w motors they review not available in the uk. However can get some very good info and the videos are very detailed.
 

soundwave

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Deleted member 4366

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There's a lot of choice and things are changing all the time. Some motors/systems can be better suited to some circumstances or rider preferences. It's much easier to choose a system/motor if you have a specific set of requirements. Many systems/motors might be adequate for those needs. There isn't necessarily a best system for those needs; however, you need to avoid any inadequate ones.
 
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Andy88

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There's a lot of choice and things are changing all the time. Some motors/systems can be better suited to some circumstances or rider preferences. It's much easier to choose a system/motor if you have a specific set of requirements. Many systems/motors might be adequate for those needs. There isn't necessarily a best system for those needs; however, you need to avoid any inadequate ones.
Agree
 

Woosh

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d8veh makes a lot of sense.
Most of the time, geared hubs do the job equally well and invariably offer better value for money.
 

Andy88

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d8veh makes a lot of sense.
Most of the time, geared hubs do the job equally well and invariably offer better value for money.
Point taken and if on the front wheel less hassle. Just don't know why high end manufacturers don't use them so much, brand snobbery?
 
D

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There are some outstanding dealers out there and some rogues as well but knowledge gained from this forum is king and I am grateful for it.
That's a good point. AFAICS most dealers adjust or bias the facts to convince you that a bike they have is good for you. I don't mean that they'd sell you an unsuitable bike because most are suitable for most people anyway.

You'd be surprised how little most dealers know about the bikes they're selling. Go in a shop and ask how many amps the controller allows. That's one of the most significant characteristics of the system, which is directly proportional to the power of the motor. Most will tell you that the bike is 250w max, which is normally less than half what it actually is. Another typical answer is that it's a 12 amp battery, by which they mean 12 amp-hours capacity, but they don't understand what those terms mean.

Another important characteristic is the motor RPM. See how many know what it is. That applies to crank-drives as well as hub-motors.
 
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Andy88

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That's a good point. AFAICS most dealers adjust or bias the facts to convince you that a bike they have is good for you. I don't mean that they'd sell you an unsuitable bike because most are suitable for most people anyway.

You'd be surprised how little most dealers know about the bikes they're selling. Go in a shop and ask how many amps the controller allows. That's one of the most significant characteristics of the system, which is directly proportional to the power of the motor. Most will tell you that the bike is 250w max, which is normally less than half what it actually is. Another typical answer is that it's a 12 amp battery, by which they mean 12 amp-hours capacity, but they don't understand what those terms mean.

Another important characteristic is the motor RPM. See how many know what it is. That applies to crank-drives as well as hub-motors.
Hi D8veh, I agree with this one, living in Asia especially here in the Outback of the Philippines the sales assistant can't even tell me the frame size let alone anything else. Product knowledge here in Asia is very poor but when your paid less than £5 a day there is little incentive other than personal pride.

Ive already experienced what you have said from emails that I sent to a handful of retailers, for a potential spend of 2k plus, you would expect better service.

Some including Woosh and Wisper have been excellent.

On a separate note what is your view on depreciation both electric and non electric? Ive seen normal bikes that cost upwards of £600 being sold for as little as £200 less than a year old! Used Electric bikes most decent brands rarely appear on ebay unless they are very old.

Andy
 

Alan Quay

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Hi D8veh, I agree with this one, living in Asia especially here in the Outback of the Philippines the sales assistant can't even tell me the frame size let alone anything else. Product knowledge here in Asia is very poor but when your paid less than £5 a day there is little incentive other than personal pride.

Ive already experienced what you have said from emails that I sent to a handful of retailers, for a potential spend of 2k plus, you would expect better service.

Some including Woosh and Wisper have been excellent.

On a separate note what is your view on depreciation both electric and non electric? Ive seen normal bikes that cost upwards of £600 being sold for as little as £200 less than a year old! Used Electric bikes most decent brands rarely appear on ebay unless they are very old.

Andy
Depreciation has a lot to do with the cost of a replacement battery. Most are considered end of life after 3 years so it's with asking about this when considering a purchase.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 
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