Cube Cross Hybrid Pro 625 AllRoad

Chris M

Pedelecer
Dec 31, 2018
97
126
Guys i bought this bike today, and it wasn’t what I was expecting. I thought I was getting A 2020 gen 4 motor that would eat the miles away. Instead the bike barely made it up a steep hill in full turbo mode. This is my first e bike, the retailer I purchased off let me borrow a basic electric bike for a few days until mine arrived, and that bike didn’t have the comforts of this cube for sure, but it’s electric performance was brilliant and flew up the same hill this cube struggled with. I’m going to lean ahead and and say it’s the weight of this bike 24kg which Is the main issue. should I change the tyres to shred the weight, or is most of the weight in the frame and battery? Because the way I see it I’ve just spent close to 3k on A Bike that struggles up steep hills. And to top it all off I ran out of charge, this bike is extremely heavy to cycle home without any power.
Something doesn't sound right. I only have an Active Line Plus which has less power but it is very good indeed on hills. It is most unlikely that changing the tyres will do anything for you. It may well be that either the motor or control unit isn't working correctly. If you bought it from a local shop then get them to check it out. If you bought it online you should contact the seller.
 

GLJoe

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 21, 2017
493
224
UK
the bike barely made it up a steep hill in full turbo mode.
Isn't this a CX motored bike?
It should manage pretty much any hill easily. At least if you're in the right gear and pedaling at the correct cadence.
The weight of the bike isn't the issue.
So what was your cadence and can you give more info about how fit you are, how steep the hill actually is etc etc.
(and what was the ebike you tried before that you're comparing this to)
 

Amoto65

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 2, 2017
680
446
57
Cheshire
When I got the bike today it only had two bars of charge left as the bike was brand-new so I charged it for half an hour which took it up to 3 bars the range when starting my ride said 9 miles.
Ignore the range indicator until you have ridden the bike for a while and then it will show the true readings, it takes a while for it to start the true estimations. Are you sure the brakes are not binding? as the cx motor is very capable of climbing.
 

Fishy

Pedelecer
Nov 16, 2018
157
152
Like others have said, hills should be no problem. I've got a CX motor on my (very heavy) bike, and in turbo mode, I can 'ghost pedal' up any hill.
Tour mode gets me up with a bit of effort from me.
 

sjpt

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 8, 2018
1,947
1,379
Ignore the range indicator until you have ridden the bike for a while and then it will show the true readings, it takes a while for it to start the true estimations. Are you sure the brakes are not binding? as the cx motor is very capable of climbing.
Brakes certainly seem the most likely cause. Or maybe tyre rubbing on the frame.

The range indicator only uses very short memory so should give true readings after only a mile or two. (The downside of this is that it will vary very erratically depending whether your last couple of miles were up or down hill.) If the range indicator says 9 miles after a couple of miles this does indicate the motor is working too hard, so its another indicator that brakes are wrong.

Like others have said, hills should be no problem. I've got a CX motor on my (very heavy) bike, and in turbo mode, I can 'ghost pedal' up any hill.
Tour mode gets me up with a bit of effort from me.
You can't ghost pedal one of these. Torque sensor on turbo gives at most 340% of your effort, but you still need to apply 22% of the total effort. Ghost pedalling means putting in NO effort, as you can with cadence sensor setups. Still, 22% is a lot less than 100% so maybe it feels as if you aren't putting in any effort.

I've never quite seen why they don't arrange it that turbo will give full output even if you aren't putting in any effort, or have an extra turbo+ that does.
 

Fishy

Pedelecer
Nov 16, 2018
157
152
Brakes certainly seem the most likely cause. Or maybe tyre rubbing on the frame.

The range indicator only uses very short memory so should give true readings after only a mile or two. (The downside of this is that it will vary very erratically depending whether your last couple of miles were up or down hill.) If the range indicator says 9 miles after a couple of miles this does indicate the motor is working too hard, so its another indicator that brakes are wrong.


You can't ghost pedal one of these. Torque sensor on turbo gives at most 340% of your effort, but you still need to apply 22% of the total effort. Ghost pedalling means putting in NO effort, as you can with cadence sensor setups. Still, 22% is a lot less than 100% so maybe it feels as if you aren't putting in any effort.

I've never quite seen why they don't arrange it that turbo will give full output even if you aren't putting in any effort, or have an extra turbo+ that does.
You're probably right, technically, but it feels like I'm putting in virtually no effort, just spinning the cranks.
 
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Lostis4d

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 21, 2020
7
0
Right guys
I think I’m getting somewhere now.
the bike I was comparing the electric ride to, was a brushless motor whereas the bosch is a different motor type so delivers power in a different way.
the best way to describe is it, the gen 4 Bosch motor helps you whilst you pedal, whereasI found the EZgo bike knows you are pedalling so does the work for you.
The dealer also mentioned my brakes had settled in so he adjusted them.
I am learning how to ride this bike now, it definitely needs turbo and reducing gears to make it up hills.
It’s not so much as putting it in turbo and letting the motor do the work for you. I guess I’m learning the style of ride I would have liked which is press turbo and go. But I guess the set up I currently have will benefit my health more as I am having to pedal more for the assist to Kick in. The only aspect I am still disappointed with is the weight. If I had done a little more research I would have chosen a bike around 15kg so if the battery runs out, it’s not the end of through world pedalling home.
 

Lostis4d

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 21, 2020
7
0
Isn't this a CX motored bike?
It should manage pretty much any hill easily. At least if you're in the right gear and pedaling at the correct cadence.
The weight of the bike isn't the issue.
So what was your cadence and can you give more info about how fit you are, how steep the hill actually is etc etc.
(and what was the ebike you tried before that you're comparing this to)
I was comparing to an EZ go commuter bike
I’ve since learnt that the power delivery on these bikes is completely different.
mans tbh I much Preffered the way the EZ go delivered power. I found it much more efficient too.
Yes my bike is a CX gen 4, I assumed I would be getting a bike that just fly’s if I put it into turbo, but I’m finding that this kind of motor only helps u if you are pedalling hard.
On eco mode I’m really not a fan of it, it’s like I can feel the weight of the bike.
 

GLJoe

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 21, 2017
493
224
UK
You can't ghost pedal one of these. Torque sensor on turbo gives at most 340% of your effort, but you still need to apply 22% of the total effort. Ghost pedalling means putting in NO effort, as you can with cadence sensor setups.
Well ... if you're turning your legs around, then unless the motor is directly attached to the pedals and your feet are strapped to those, then its incorrect to say that cadence sensing needs 'NO effort' either! You still need some kind of muscular activation :)

The question is - how much extra effort is needed.
Many people will tell you that at low speeds at least, a Bosch CX motor in turbo seems totally effortless. Its almost hard to imagine putting in LESS effort, and you do indeed seem to be ghost pedaling.

I admit it might just be the oddities of human perception - you know you're riding a bike. Your brain thinks you need to be putting in a certain amount of effort, so when its vastly less than you expect, it seems like almost zero effort, even though it might actually be a few tens of watts.
But I've also had this suspicion that the Bosch algorithm is cleverer than they make out, and if it knows you're in turbo, going slowly yet spinning your legs (so in something like 1st gear going up a hill), so it might be pumping out max power, over and above the simple 340% torque multiplier figure.

Who knows. But whatever, its easy to go up steep hills (slowly) with a CX. REALLY easy. REALLY REALLY easy !!!
 

darren66

Pedelecer
Feb 23, 2020
50
27
I was comparing to an EZ go commuter bike
I’ve since learnt that the power delivery on these bikes is completely different.
mans tbh I much Preffered the way the EZ go delivered power. I found it much more efficient too.
Yes my bike is a CX gen 4, I assumed I would be getting a bike that just fly’s if I put it into turbo, but I’m finding that this kind of motor only helps u if you are pedalling hard.
On eco mode I’m really not a fan of it, it’s like I can feel the weight of the bike.
It seems that you may be missing the point that this is "peddle assist"
I have exactly the same bike, in the largest size, so heaviest option, I've also fitted a seatpost mount rack and bag which adds another 2-3kgs, I am 6' 5" and 260lbs, I very rarely come out of eco mode only occasionally using tour for the steepest hills...
You need to ride and select the correct gear as if riding a non assisted bike and just rely on the motor to assist you, not to do the donkey work.
It sounds like what you wanted was a 1000w hub motor with a throttle?
 
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bayzoo

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 22, 2020
21
6
Im waiting for this bike to be delivered - is there a nack to selecting the gears so not to put too much strain on the drive train or is it just the same as changing gears on a non assisted bike?
 

darren66

Pedelecer
Feb 23, 2020
50
27
Im waiting for this bike to be delivered - is there a nack to selecting the gears so not to put too much strain on the drive train or is it just the same as changing gears on a non assisted bike?
I try not to exert as much force through the crank when changing gear, similar to a non assisted bike, I personally stop pedalling for a split second, the chainring will continue to rotate with the motor (for a fraction of a second) this will allow a smooth change with no undue strain on the drive train, certainly more important when selecting a lower gear.
 
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whiteco

Just Joined
May 7, 2020
3
2
I've had this bike for a few months now and I'm happy with it and finding myself doing more miles more often. Battery life is good. I easily get 2-3 days on my work commute (26km round trip) in TOUR. Longest I've done in 70KM in TOUR (mixture of road and off-road across Dartmoor) and still had 2/5 bars charge left. I clocked up 580KM is April which is the most I've ever done in a month! I find TOUR and ECO adequate, very occasionally use SPORT for a steep hill (and it flys up), but TOUR is usually enough. Never ever needed TURBO. It's my first E-Bike and of course you have to put some effort it but it definitely takes the sting out of hills, and they no longer 'wipe me out' , and I just generally enjoy going faster for longer (compared to my hardtail MTB).
 

Lostis4d

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 21, 2020
7
0
Hi guys
ive beeen using this bike for 300 miles now and a few questions
- I’m noticing drag below 15mph, my friends acid hybrid mtb e bike which is entry level, can roll downhill faster than mine, with the power off, and on eco mode, when we are riding together I generally have to Select a higher mode to keep up with him. and I’m watching his pedal, he is pedalling less.
- I’m Changing the tyres to marathon e plus to try and combat this
- the gears are very noisy when changing, they make a clunk sound everytime, against comparing this to the entry level cube acid hybrid, which is smooth shifting without sound every time.
whats going on here, why is my bike plagued with these kind of issues?
 

bayzoo

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 22, 2020
21
6
Your friends bike is a litter lighter due to our bigger battery. Are you both roughly the same weight and size? Are your fitness levels similar?

I agree with the gears though I did have to re-index them a few times and they did sounds better after that. I may be wrong but our higher torque motors can sometimes cause the gears to thud more when shifting - I noticed they were quieter when I had the bike Off
 

whiteco

Just Joined
May 7, 2020
3
2
Hi guys
ive beeen using this bike for 300 miles now and a few questions
- I’m noticing drag below 15mph, my friends acid hybrid mtb e bike which is entry level, can roll downhill faster than mine, with the power off, and on eco mode, when we are riding together I generally have to Select a higher mode to keep up with him. and I’m watching his pedal, he is pedalling less.
- I’m Changing the tyres to marathon e plus to try and combat this
- the gears are very noisy when changing, they make a clunk sound everytime, against comparing this to the entry level cube acid hybrid, which is smooth shifting without sound every time.
whats going on here, why is my bike plagued with these kind of issues?
Not seen or perceived an issue with drag on downhills. Although I think I've noticed drag/resistance with the power off in general at low speeds (don't often turn it off, but just wanted to see what it'd be like to get home with a flat battery!). At first I thought it was just the weight of the bike but it does feel like resistance (or drag) too?

I find the gear changing is just about getting used to an e-bike and the increased torque from the assist when you're changing gear. Some mentioned earlier in the thread about stopping pedalling for a split second when changing gear and this definitely makes for a smoother change (and undoubtedly less stress on components). The higher the assist, and the tougher the incline, the more careful you have to be when gear changing (I find, at least). Just practice.
 

Altea4

Finding my (electric) wheels
Dec 30, 2019
24
12
I’ve noticed a perceived drag above an indicated 16 but thats just the assistance cutting out, a few seconds later its all forgotten. Never noticed on a downhill and I’ve hit some silly speeds....30 plus while braking.
When I’m above 16 and prolonged I click down to off mode , the motor disengages and more natural pedalling.

I did start out chunking the gears quite often , I‘ve learnt to pause for a spilt second to let it engage properly and then continue, can certainly feel the assistance kick back in. It definitely smooths out the changes and becomes second nature soon enough.
 

Altea4

Finding my (electric) wheels
Dec 30, 2019
24
12
After a fall the other day and landing partly on the derailleur I have straightened the hanger and my gears now move much more smoothly , so the chunkiness on shifts must have been due to the hanger alignment! With tools to hand I also moved the spoke pin about 5mm further outwards and my assistance cut off point is now 17mph on the purion display , 15.5mph on my runkeeper gps. Did 18 miles this evening averaging 13.45mph in gale force winds , very happy at the end of the ride to still see 5 bars showing and a tour range left of 50 miles.
 

sjpt

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 8, 2018
1,947
1,379
Good news it is working better. Depending how bent the hanger was it may be worth replacing it. If it was significantly bent it could fail at any time.
 

whiteco

Just Joined
May 7, 2020
3
2
After a fall the other day and landing partly on the derailleur I have straightened the hanger and my gears now move much more smoothly , so the chunkiness on shifts must have been due to the hanger alignment! With tools to hand I also moved the spoke pin about 5mm further outwards and my assistance cut off point is now 17mph on the purion display , 15.5mph on my runkeeper gps. Did 18 miles this evening averaging 13.45mph in gale force winds , very happy at the end of the ride to still see 5 bars showing and a tour range left of 50 miles.
A small increase to 17mph would be great. Assuming the spoke pin was sitting directly over the centre point of the sensor originally, where have you moved the spoke pin to in mm from the centre point of the sensor??