cyclamatic powerplus issue

[ian831d]

i have an old cyclamatic powerplus it cuts out when under load (going up hill) switch off the key and on again and it all works then and cuts out again, no issue at all on flat
i think the controller is duff as the battery is fine,
any idea what controller i would need to buy to replace it and from where?
currently saving to buy a newer bike but.........

 

[flecc]

As my previous reply in "Comments" Ian, these are the symptoms of the battery voltage collapsing under load, due to one or more defective or very low cells. Switch off and on and then it runs ok until the load shuts it down again. Ok on the flat when the load is lower.

I'm not familiar with the Cyclamatic's 24 volt battery but we have a number of members who've owned them who may be able to help with detailed advice.

If you do need any spares, www.thesportshq.com were the original agents and still sell them, and they've also held spares.
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[ian831d]

thats great thanks,
do you think a 36v replacement battery would work or would i need to change the controller aswell from the stock item? as at present it is 24v?
thanks

 

[Nealh]

As Flecc has already eluded to, the battery can no longer deliver the load asked of it and voltage is collapsing. One the load is eased battery voltage bounces back until said load is demanded again.
You very well can use a 36v battery though first of all you would need to look in the controller to confirm the main in rush capacitor is 50v rated, the rating is on the can of the capacitor.
A look inside is cheaper then a new controller and wire/connectors being changed.

 

[flecc]

thats great thanks,
do you think a 36v replacement battery would work or would i need to change the controller aswell from the stock item? as at present it is 24v?
thanks

This post and the further replies cover this question. It seems that you probably can.

N.B. Crossed with Neal's post.
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[flecc]

There's a lot more on changing the battery voltage in this thread, but no definite answer. It depends on the low voltage cutoff (LVC) and how it behaves.
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[ian831d]

looks like the screwdrivers are coming out tonight for a free look!!
thanks all

 

[Nealh]

Flecc is correct the lvc for 24 v will be much lower so you will need to monitor the voltage on you ride with a watt meter or wire in simple £2 volt meter as you don't really want to discharge below 34v.
By going to 36v you will get 50% more speed and torque from the hub.

 

[ian831d]

might seem a daft question i have borrowed a known good 36v battery for bench test purposes from leighping and was wondering where in the circuit would i wire in the volt meter, between the battery and controller or after the controller and onto which set of wires?

 

[flecc]

Connect onto the two wires coming from the battery Ian, before the controller. It's only to see what the battery voltage drops to. Fully charged voltage for a nominal 36 volt battery is 42 volts, the minimum safe voltage is 32 volts.

If the battery you've borrowed is fully charged and you are only going to try it out for up to 4 miles or so, you won't need a volt meter for that trial since it shouldn't drop to the minimum voltage in that time.
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[ian831d]

have got a digital voltmeter so will link it in for interest more than anything,
my commute is about 10 miles, so after tinkering and ensuring it wont melt the trusty old beast will figure a way to "temporarily" use 36v and see what happens!!
could be an arduous slog if it all goes up in smoke on the way
or might move like a rocket ship.............

 

[Nealh]

You have to extend solder a flying lead from the battery supply not direct from the battery, but from the wires on the battery receiver/holders mount on the bike. Also you can do the same from the feed wires off the controller if it is easier.
If LP lives near you he might be able to help you out.
Any wiring only needs to be thin AWG silicone wire as primarily only carrying voltage for a simple lcd volt only meter and amps will be minimal so 22 or 24 awg will be fine, you an place it where you like to read it with long enough fly wiring.

 

[ian831d]

great thanks, will let you know how it goes

 

[ian831d]

So the news is all good,
having connected the loaned 36v battery to the bike, nothing!!
However after initially forgetting to turn the battery ( doh ) i remembered to turn on the battery to find all the lights worked and motor purred nicely,
so damning all consequences i lept upon the trust steed and rode the 10 miles to work, no cut out issues at all, significant improvement in both torque and speed, controller works perfectly, the only thing that doesnt work is the battery draw lights on the handlebars, they remain on permanantley.
Having connected a volt meter in as per advice earlier, during the commute the battery voltage ( although not fully charged ) did not drop below 38.7v.
all round resounding success!!!
thanks all for the help and advice, will source my own new 36v battery to cure the issue, still looking and pondering a new bike though!
again thanks all

 

[Nealh]

38.7v is a good storage voltage, 33 - 34 v is really the min you want to go, at a pinch 32v though any lower is becoming to deep for discharging cells and longevity.