Cyclotricity kit

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

pic host

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

Took a few pics

 

[Nealh]

Cheers Ben, that looks sturdy, I`ll have a look at my forks and post a pic

Yes, I tapped m5 hole. The forks are £50 Suntours.
Looking at your forks a similar job as Ben has done looks like the option.

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

Yes, I tapped m5 hole. The forks are £50 Suntours.
Looking at your forks a similar job as Ben has done looks like the option.

Thanks for that,new forks were next on my list of upgrades, until I found Pedelecs

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

Here's how I fitted it to the Carrera with a home made bracket courtesy of D8veh's suggestion.View attachment 16702
The bracket has two rightangle tabs that fit onto the caliper posts.

Thanks for that, looks good Ben, are they aluminium, what thickness, and does the spacing of the bracket not knock the brake pads out of line, I`m thinking I can get some aluminium right angle brackets from the local DIY store and cut them, or would I need steel.

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

Here's how I fitted it to the Carrera with a home made bracket courtesy of D8veh's suggestion.View attachment 16702
The bracket has two rightangle tabs that fit onto the caliper posts.

Is your Carrera a sealed crank too Ben.

 

[Benjahmin]

The forks are Suntour NVX 60mm travel. They're aluminium and the dropout thickness is approx 12mm.
As to the crank, I have no idea. However you can see the whole conversion here:
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/converting-a-carrera-crossfire3.21965/

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

The forks are Suntour NVX 60mm travel. They're aluminium and the dropout thickness is approx 12mm.
As to the crank, I have no idea. However you can see the whole conversion here:
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/converting-a-carrera-crossfire3.21965/

Thanks for that Ben, gives me something to go on for the torque bracket, the bracket suggested d8veh looks great, and i might go for the stem extender as I always felt mine was a little low too, d8veh is a mine of information, top guy, as for the bottom bracket, your PAS sensor looks different to mine so I`ll see what happens when the kit arrives, exciting stuff eh, just hope my workshop stand doesn't topple with the extra weight.

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

Just an update, the kit arrive on Monday night and i set to installing it, the front wheel fitted with just a slight shaving off of the forks, I`ll post a photo later, the battery fitting was not so good, Cyclotricity show the 250w and the 15Ah battery fitted to a Carrera on the frame but they are all over 18" bikes, so the 15Ah battery wont fit on the 16" frame, so I`m going to fit it on a rear pannier. The next problem was fitting the PAS sensor, the pickup unit is supposed to be fitted on the LHS BB under the lock nut, but if its a sealed BB you have to remove the BB and slide it on from left to right and the shoulder locks it to the frame, you then slip the magnetic disc over the BB shaft and fit the crank, the problem I have is the shaft is too short and when I tighten the crank it grips the magnetic disc against the pickup plate which stops it spinning with the crank, IE not enough clearance, my BB length is 115mm but halfords have a 122.5mm BB so I`ll get one of them and see if that works. The hub motor was also rubbing against inside of the forks slightly so I filled it off slighty and now have 1.5mm clearance, would you think that is enough. The only other problem, as if that wasn`t enough, is finding space for the throttle lever between the handlebar grip and the gearchanger and the brake lever.

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

A couple more photos

 

[D C]

It looks to me from the photo that you may need to file deeper as well as wider, it doesn't look as if the shaft is centred.
I could be wrong but it's worth checking as it's quite important as the nut can easily crack the forks if it doesn't seat flat.
http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/cyclotricity-kit-versus-8fun-kit.15722/page-2
A very good diagram from D8veh on post 27
Dave

 

[stevenatleven]

I had the same problem as you if by the LHS you mean the non drive side. The bottom bracket length to the best of my recollection is only on the drive side so you will still have the problem. I took the crank and ground about 3/32nds off the boss where it fits the square taper. Mine was a Halfords bike as well, a Kraken and I seem to recall they have very chunky crank arms.

 

[D8ve]

It also looks as f the nut is sitting on top of the recess. Would one that fits into it not hold much better?

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

I had the same problem as you if by the LHS you mean the non drive side. The bottom bracket length to the best of my recollection is only on the drive side so you will still have the problem. I took the crank and ground about 3/32nds off the boss where it fits the square taper. Mine was a Halfords bike as well, a Kraken and I seem to recall they have very chunky crank arms.

Yes, I mean LHS as the non drive side. Is yours fitted on the LHS, in the manual it says that you can only fit it to the LHS if you have a NON sealed BB, is yours a NON sealed BB. It says the other option is to fit it to the RHS, which is what I did, and it is gripping the magnetic disc. I will post more photos tonight of the crank and more photos the nuts on the forks for the other comments. Cheers.

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

I had the same problem as you if by the LHS you mean the non drive side. The bottom bracket length to the best of my recollection is only on the drive side so you will still have the problem. I took the crank and ground about 3/32nds off the boss where it fits the square taper. Mine was a Halfords bike as well, a Kraken and I seem to recall they have very chunky crank arms.

Ah, I think I got you now, the extra length of the BB shaft is only on the cranks side, so you ground down the boss on the inside of the crank to allow the mag disc to recess more into the crank, I thought of that, but I thought it would also allow the crank to go further onto the shaft which would defeat the purpose.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You can fit it to the LHS if you have a sealed BB. Buy the locking ring from Ebay for 99p, unscrew the BB bearing holder a few turns if it doesn't already stick out a bit, then hold the PAS sensor on the thread with the locking ring.

As he said above, you can gain a few mm in the gap by grinding down the square taper boss on the crank-arm. You can reduce it by about 5mm with no problem.

If it was the brake caliper that was touching the motor, the normal solution is to fit a 180mm disc and 160/180 mm post mount caliper adapter, which is basically a 10mm spacer..

 

[tringmotion]

Hi all, I`m looking for any advice on a Cyclotricity kit from E-Bikesdirect, I`m gonna fit it to my Carrera Vengeance, thinking about the 500w or 1000w rear drive with the LCD control, looking to make hills and headwinds a bit easier, I don`t commute, only for pleasure and fitness, I do about 10 road miles every other night and don`t mind peddling on the flat, I also use it for off road, forest tracks and hill trails. To be honest I`m more concerned with miles than power, so maybe the 1000w is a bit overkill, I`ve been reading about DD vs geared and the issues with drag when using pedal power as opposed to PAS, Cheers all, Johnny.

1000w kits are not efficient and are heavy. Also Road use is illegal, so not worth it.

Sent from my E6853 using Tapatalk

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

1000w kits are not efficient and are heavy. Also Road use is illegal, so not worth it.

Sent from my E6853 using Tapatalk

Cheers Tring, I ended up buying 250W, so its that I`m using for the conversion.

 

[JohnnyGM7LSI]

You can fit it to the LHS if you have a sealed BB. Buy the locking ring from Ebay for 99p, unscrew the BB bearing holder a few turns if it doesn't already stick out a bit, then hold the PAS sensor on the thread with the locking ring.

As he said above, you can gain a few mm in the gap by grinding down the square taper boss on the crank-arm. You can reduce it by about 5mm with no problem.

If it was the brake caliper that was touching the motor, the normal solution is to fit a 180mm disc and 160/180 mm post mount caliper adapter, which is basically a 10mm spacer..

You can fit it to the LHS if you have a sealed BB. Buy the locking ring from Ebay for 99p, unscrew the BB bearing holder a few turns if it doesn't already stick out a bit, then hold the PAS sensor on the thread with the locking ring.

As he said above, you can gain a few mm in the gap by grinding down the square taper boss on the crank-arm. You can reduce it by about 5mm with no problem.

If it was the brake caliper that was touching the motor, the normal solution is to fit a 180mm disc and 160/180 mm post mount caliper adapter, which is basically a 10mm spacer..

Thanks for the advice, really appreciated it. It was the motor that was rubbing the inside of the fork, only slightly, just touching, so I filed a shaving off of the inside of the fork, now got about 2mm clearance, you can just see the light grey where I filed it off and the clearance left on the 1st photo on post 29#.

The locking ring sounds good, I`ll post a few photos of the BB to see if you think this will work, do you replace the sealed BB locking ring with the unsealed one. Another option I thought of was, the BB I have is 113mm long, but you can also get a 122.5mm, which I thought would give me more clearance, but then I thought it would knock the chain out of line with the front derailleur and even put more strain on the rear one, fitting it to the LHS sounds the easiest option but it look like it could be easily damaged as it looks quite exposed, would grinding the square taper boss not allow the crank to move even closer, I`ve not looked at that yet, just some thoughts.

I posted an extra couple of the dropout photos to see if the washers are seated ok. it looks like the nuts are holding the washers and not the forks, and also the BB pics and a couple with the sensors.

 

[stevenatleven]

Hi Johnny you can see my PAS on the non drive side here.( click on the pic for more detail) By grinding off a few mm off the inside crank face there was enough space to allow the sensor to sit on the taper without being compressed when the crank was fully tightened. I have a shimano sealed unit a un55 x115mm IIRC.