No gears will take a couple of weeks to arrive...
I'm talking about the front wheel quick release
I'm talking about the front wheel quick release
Dahon Jetstream conversion
- Thread starter cwah
- Start date
I used this nuts to replace the front wheel quick release
http://www.pitlock.com
Expensive but no one can take your wheel off
http://www.pitlock.com
Expensive but no one can take your wheel off
C
Cyclezee
Guest
Thanks patpatbut. I was wondering where I can find similar thread for front wheel with nut?
The one on my front wheel looks very thin and short
John, I agree with you and too sad we have so much taxs to pay in the uk
The one on my front wheel looks very thin and short
John, I agree with you and too sad we have so much taxs to pay in the uk
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
You can get skewers like this, but the Dahon front one is shorter. I'm pretty sure that you can remove the lever end from your skewer by holding the shaft with mole-grips, and unscrewing it. Then you can fit the end off this skewer:
ZIPP Track Front Skewer Stainless Steel Silver for Road Wheels (1 pc)-ZPQR13103 | eBay
System EX Mountain Bike / Road Wheel Security Skewers (Non quick release) | eBay
ZIPP Track Front Skewer Stainless Steel Silver for Road Wheels (1 pc)-ZPQR13103 | eBay
System EX Mountain Bike / Road Wheel Security Skewers (Non quick release) | eBay
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks patpatbut but 43 euro for a thread is a little bit too much for me.
i'm going to follow dave and get this (cheap) one:
New XLC Bike Cycle Locking Allen Key Skewer Set For Wheels & Seat Post | eBay
AFAIK Pitlock standard width / diameter for a front wheel - 5mm diameter and 119mm width.
Set 04
Their other FW axle lengths are as here - front wheel options are 119mm or 130mm :
AXLES WITHOUT LOCK
I think they can be filed shorter if you really have to - although need to be careful of messing up the thread. The single skewer set is available here from Cycle Surgery (with 5% Quidco cashback) :
Pitlock 1 Piece Skewer Set - CycleSurgery
Thanks again for all this help guys (and specifically for D8veh).
2 more issues on the bike:
- The chain fells off on the right of the crankset (when I don't have the motor) when I'm on the fastest speed. Does it mean the derailleur is not aligned with the crankset? Shall I bend the derailleur with my hand or do something?
- The BPM doesn't freewheel very well. It does few rotations maximum. And if I tighten the nut, it gets worse. Is it normal? I was expecting the BPM to rotate at least as wheel as the normal rear well without motor.
2 more issues on the bike:
- The chain fells off on the right of the crankset (when I don't have the motor) when I'm on the fastest speed. Does it mean the derailleur is not aligned with the crankset? Shall I bend the derailleur with my hand or do something?
- The BPM doesn't freewheel very well. It does few rotations maximum. And if I tighten the nut, it gets worse. Is it normal? I was expecting the BPM to rotate at least as wheel as the normal rear well without motor.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Don't bend the derailleur. There's two adjuster screws which set the end-stops of the derailleur to stop it going too far. One stops it from pulling the chain off the bottom gear, and the other is for top gear. After that, there's another screw on the back, which rotates the whole derailleur backwards to tighten the chain.
When a BPM is new, there's a little bit of resistance from the seals and grease, which will improve with miles (or km). I can't see any way that it can change by tightening the wheel-nuts because the wheel-nuts only tighten the axle. The rotating wheel and motor are independent. The only place where anything can touch is on the disk side if you don't have the right spacers there. Are your brakes rubbing?
When a BPM is new, there's a little bit of resistance from the seals and grease, which will improve with miles (or km). I can't see any way that it can change by tightening the wheel-nuts because the wheel-nuts only tighten the axle. The rotating wheel and motor are independent. The only place where anything can touch is on the disk side if you don't have the right spacers there. Are your brakes rubbing?
ok that makes sense for the derailleur. I'm going to check the screws.
For the BPM, that was what I've noticed when I tighten very strongly the nut. Then by loosening then, it was finally rolling better. I've checked it didn't have brake rubbing but I can double check.
I have also this problem sometime with my brompton front wheel, when I tighten it too much it doesn't turn properly.
Not sure if I've missed something
For the BPM, that was what I've noticed when I tighten very strongly the nut. Then by loosening then, it was finally rolling better. I've checked it didn't have brake rubbing but I can double check.
I have also this problem sometime with my brompton front wheel, when I tighten it too much it doesn't turn properly.
Not sure if I've missed something
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
I haven't got my BPM to hand at the moment, so I'm going on memory. On the disc side, there's a bit of a recess to the bearing. the first thing against the bearing must only touch the inner part of the bearing, so you can't have a 12mm washer that has a 24 mm outside diameter, which will fill up the recess and touch both the inner and outer parts of the bearing. Have a look what's under the black nut. To get it off, you hold the axle still with a 10 mm spanner.
C
Cyclezee
Guest
Hi cwah,
For non electric bike maintenance and reference, you might find one of these a good investment http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Bike-Book-Complete-Maintenance/dp/0857331183
For non electric bike maintenance and reference, you might find one of these a good investment http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Bike-Book-Complete-Maintenance/dp/0857331183
Thanks D8veh, I'm going to check that tonight.
John, yeah that seems good. There is also this site that is good resource too:
Bicycle Tutor - Bike Repair Video Tutorials
John, yeah that seems good. There is also this site that is good resource too:
Bicycle Tutor - Bike Repair Video Tutorials
Getting back to the freewheel action binding, I have something similar on my new Q100 from BMS.
I know it's a different motor, but it's similar to what Dave has said.
This is a front wheel hub, so one side has the black spacer on the disc and cable entry side.
The other side, shown the photos, is where it was binding slightly when spun, unpowered.
Like yours, it only then carries on for a second or so, whereas with sealed bearings and no brakes rubbing you'd expect it to on for several seconds, like a conventional, properly adjusted wheel.
Loosening the outer nut eases it, like yours.
I remember Dave mentioning something like it before on a forum, where there was a superfluous rubber washer under the inner nut, between it and the inner bearing race, causing the washer to rub against the outer bearing race.
These two photos show something similar, but I think the problem is a bit more difficult to rectify.
One photo shows the wheel square on, with the inner nut obscuring what's inside of it.
In the second photo, with it removed, you can see what appears to be a rubber seal on the bearing, (with lettering on it).
You can see it's raised slightly above the thin metal collar of the inner bearing race, so it rubs against the inner nut when that's replaced.
It seems to be packed with grease, and I'm reluctant to hook it out, because I suppose it would no longer be water resistant ?
Maybe I should try a thin spacer washer, the same diameter as the inner bearing race ?
I know it's a different motor, but it's similar to what Dave has said.
This is a front wheel hub, so one side has the black spacer on the disc and cable entry side.
The other side, shown the photos, is where it was binding slightly when spun, unpowered.
Like yours, it only then carries on for a second or so, whereas with sealed bearings and no brakes rubbing you'd expect it to on for several seconds, like a conventional, properly adjusted wheel.
Loosening the outer nut eases it, like yours.
I remember Dave mentioning something like it before on a forum, where there was a superfluous rubber washer under the inner nut, between it and the inner bearing race, causing the washer to rub against the outer bearing race.
These two photos show something similar, but I think the problem is a bit more difficult to rectify.
One photo shows the wheel square on, with the inner nut obscuring what's inside of it.
In the second photo, with it removed, you can see what appears to be a rubber seal on the bearing, (with lettering on it).
You can see it's raised slightly above the thin metal collar of the inner bearing race, so it rubs against the inner nut when that's replaced.
It seems to be packed with grease, and I'm reluctant to hook it out, because I suppose it would no longer be water resistant ?
Maybe I should try a thin spacer washer, the same diameter as the inner bearing race ?
After you removed the rubber seal, does you wheel freewheel properly? Can you tighten properly your motor and have no rolling issue? It should turn for at least 30 seconds, not few seconds
I haven't removed the rubber seal yet because it looks like it might be the bearing's built-in rubber seal, and I don't want to damage it if that's the case.
I'm hoping Dave might be able to confirm that it's different to the washer that he found under his nut.
I think I've got a washer that's the perfect size in my ebikes bits box. From memory it's the same diamter as the inner race and about a mm thick.
I'll give that a try and report back.
It did spin very freely in my truing stand when that side had no inner or outer nut on it, so I'm sure the drag is caused by that rubber seal pushing loosely against the inside of the inner nut.
I'm hoping Dave might be able to confirm that it's different to the washer that he found under his nut.
I think I've got a washer that's the perfect size in my ebikes bits box. From memory it's the same diamter as the inner race and about a mm thick.
I'll give that a try and report back.
It did spin very freely in my truing stand when that side had no inner or outer nut on it, so I'm sure the drag is caused by that rubber seal pushing loosely against the inside of the inner nut.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
These are the bits that come with the MXUS motor (except the spacer where it says XF08C). Despit not getting the seal right on the cassette side, they did at least provide those thin washers, which go directly against the bearing to avoid that problem:
I couldn't find a suitable washer in my spares box, but I think I've solved it.
The inner nut is quite thin so I hadn't noticed that the bevel edge wasn't symmetrical.
As these photos show, it's significantly offset, more than 2:1
I put it back this time carefully making sure the deeper bevel was facing inwards, towards the protruding rubber seal on the bearing.
I was able to nip it up tight this time, and the wheel spins/freewheels much more easily than before.
It runs on for about 5 seconds now after power off, which I think is probably right, considering it's only a 20" wheel with no tyre on it, so the flywheel effect is quite limited.
The inner nut is quite thin so I hadn't noticed that the bevel edge wasn't symmetrical.
As these photos show, it's significantly offset, more than 2:1
I put it back this time carefully making sure the deeper bevel was facing inwards, towards the protruding rubber seal on the bearing.
I was able to nip it up tight this time, and the wheel spins/freewheels much more easily than before.
It runs on for about 5 seconds now after power off, which I think is probably right, considering it's only a 20" wheel with no tyre on it, so the flywheel effect is quite limited.
I have both a Cute100H and BPM bare motors on my hand, it doesn't turn much on when I push it and I can feel some drag.
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