Fitting a whoosh conversion kit to a Thorn Raven

[SafetyThird]

After al the help I received in choosing this kit, I figured I'd post a thread on the installation which may be of use to others but also for me to ask a few specific questions as well.

Kit received within 48 hours of ordering from Whooshbikes, all securely packed.



Offering up the battery to the frame showed that I can't use the bottle bosses on the downtube, they're too low and would mean I couldn't use the bottle cage on the seat tube. So, I need to add three rivnuts to the downtube.



It's a steel bike so I don't want to use aluminium rivnuts due to possible galvanic corrosion. Stainless seem like the best option. There's two rivnuts included with the whoosh bike kit but I'm not sure what material they are and I'd need three so amazon can deliver those. I'm going to need a right angle adapter for my drill because even my small pneumatic drill won't fit in the space for the top two holes that need to be drilled.

Also going to need a rivnut tool as I think using the nut and spanner trick may be ok for aluminium rivnuts but I doubt it would be reliable for steel going into steel. So, now I need to figure out what tool will fit into that space. Off to Amazon again. I really want something like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Proster-Thread-Setter-Metric-Mandrels/dp/B0839CKVBW/ref=d_bmx_dp_n96d588o_sccl_4_3/257-8128157-3978527?pd_rd_w=YHSmx&content-id=amzn1.sym.89225240-8a77-485f-8acf-5ccf81e8216e&pf_rd_p=89225240-8a77-485f-8acf-5ccf81e8216e&pf_rd_r=Q4ZFXVW497DQQF0CKPVW&pd_rd_wg=i5Rh6&pd_rd_r=7697d185-eac9-4600-86ae-c889fb5a39f5&pd_rd_i=B0839CKVBW&th=1

which is beefy enough to do any type of rivnut but while the levers will be either side of the top tube in use, I'm not sure if the head will fit into the required gap. Anyone used one of these before? The ones that look like pop rivet guns I'm not sure if they're strong enough to do a steel rivnut into a steel frame reliably. Would appreciate any advice from those that have done this before.

I've fitted the magnet disk to the chainwheel with epoxy. Not sure of the longevity of that as a solution so I'll probably try and design up and 3d print a version I can screw on to the chainring instead of glueing it.



so now it's off to peruse amazon and look at rivnut gun options.

 

[Cadence]

You could use an adapter to fit the battery rather than drilling that nice Thorn frame.
I got one of these:-

Electric Bicycle Frame Battery Box Mount For HaiLong E-bike Coversion Adapter | eBay

Mine was the same as the above but from Amazon. I think it was about £22.00.
There are lots of different types available but I chose this one as it gave the most position options. It is also longer than some, so supports the battery slider better.
The one I bought also came with two large "hose clip" type clamps, but I have found that the original braze-ons on my steel frame are sturdy enough without them.

 

[Az.]

Do you have controller in battery base? If not, it is easier and better to drill through battery base than through frame.
If that won't work, you should try adaptor as suggested by Cadence.

Drilling frame should be your last option IMO

 

[Woosh]

After al the help I received in choosing this kit, I figured I'd post a thread on the installation which may be of use to others but also for me to ask a few specific questions as well.

Kit received within 48 hours of ordering from Whooshbikes, all securely packed.

View attachment 52938

Offering up the battery to the frame showed that I can't use the bottle bosses on the downtube, they're too low and would mean I couldn't use the bottle cage on the seat tube. So, I need to add three rivnuts to the downtube.

View attachment 52939

It's a steel bike so I don't want to use aluminium rivnuts due to possible galvanic corrosion. Stainless seem like the best option. There's two rivnuts included with the whoosh bike kit but I'm not sure what material they are and I'd need three so amazon can deliver those. I'm going to need a right angle adapter for my drill because even my small pneumatic drill won't fit in the space for the top two holes that need to be drilled.

Also going to need a rivnut tool as I think using the nut and spanner trick may be ok for aluminium rivnuts but I doubt it would be reliable for steel going into steel. So, now I need to figure out what tool will fit into that space. Off to Amazon again. I really want something like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Proster-Thread-Setter-Metric-Mandrels/dp/B0839CKVBW/ref=d_bmx_dp_n96d588o_sccl_4_3/257-8128157-3978527?pd_rd_w=YHSmx&content-id=amzn1.sym.89225240-8a77-485f-8acf-5ccf81e8216e&pf_rd_p=89225240-8a77-485f-8acf-5ccf81e8216e&pf_rd_r=Q4ZFXVW497DQQF0CKPVW&pd_rd_wg=i5Rh6&pd_rd_r=7697d185-eac9-4600-86ae-c889fb5a39f5&pd_rd_i=B0839CKVBW&th=1

which is beefy enough to do any type of rivnut but while the levers will be either side of the top tube in use, I'm not sure if the head will fit into the required gap. Anyone used one of these before? The ones that look like pop rivet guns I'm not sure if they're strong enough to do a steel rivnut into a steel frame reliably. Would appreciate any advice from those that have done this before.

I've fitted the magnet disk to the chainwheel with epoxy. Not sure of the longevity of that as a solution so I'll probably try and design up and 3d print a version I can screw on to the chainring instead of glueing it.

View attachment 52941

so now it's off to peruse amazon and look at rivnut gun options.

There are adapter rails for the battery. Just ask Andy for the link. No drilling needed.
Just noticed that cadence has already given you the link to the adapter rail.

 

[Woosh]

Do you have controller in battery base? If not, it is easier and better to drill through battery base than through frame.
If that won't work, you should try adaptor as suggested by Cadence.

Drilling frame should be your last option IMO

Controller is in the base.

 

[SafetyThird]

Thank you everyone, I had no idea you could get adapters. Should have thought to ask.

@Woosh I’ll message Andy in the morning. Thanks.

 

[Az.]

Controller is in the base.

I think adaptors should be included as standard in kits with controller in the base or at least please suggest it as something recommended.

 

[Woosh]

Normally the slots are wide enough to suit most downtubes but if your water bottle is located very close to the bottom bracket,
you'll need to add a rivnut above the top water bottle boss. The kit comes with extra rivnuts for this. In this case, the supplied rivnuts are aluminium and the frame is Reynolds steel, so an adapter rail is preferable.
I will relay your suggestion to Andy.

 

[SafetyThird]

I looked at the adapter that Andy suggested but I think it's too short given that the water bottle bosses on the Thorn are at the very bottom of the tube. I've found an alternative that I think will work from the measurements given and from measuring up the bike.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BBM1CY3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Will find out tomorrow. Meanwhile, I've had to modify the sensor for the crank a little as with the two supplied pieces it was too thick to fit between the chainwheel and the downtube. 2 mins with a Stanley knife and it fits, I also swapped out the Phillips head screw for a stainless hex bolt as I hate having screw heads on the bike generally, they always corrode and get chewed up.



I may play with designing and 3d printing something that fits a bit more precisely and lock in place against the curves of the tube and bottom bracket casing, but that'll have to wait until I have a bit more spare time, I'm still a complete novice with Tinkercad.

I've mounted the display on the bars and just waiting for a new tyre and tube to arrive this afternoon and tomorrow I'll hopefully have the rest of it put together.

 

[saneagle]

You can make a bracket out of any 1mm metal bent up and zip-tied or glued to the BB.

Here post #15

Rocky Mountain Element Conversion

I started the conversion today. This one will have one or more novel features. which I'm still trying to work out, so might be a bit slower than what I normally do. I snagged the bike for £380 and the kit cost about £500 including batteries, so I'm hoping to keep the total to less than £1000...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

 

[SafetyThird]

You can make a bracket out of any 1mm metal bent up and zip-tied or glued to the BB.

Here post #15

Rocky Mountain Element Conversion

I started the conversion today. This one will have one or more novel features. which I'm still trying to work out, so might be a bit slower than what I normally do. I snagged the bike for £380 and the kit cost about £500 including batteries, so I'm hoping to keep the total to less than £1000...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

Very neat, thanks for pointing that out. I'd like to keep it above the bottom bracket, just to keep it out of potential harms way hitting things but will give that some thought when I have time to consider a replacement.

 

[SafetyThird]

tyre and tube arrived from SJS cycles so into the garage. once fitted to the wheel and offered up , I found the dropouts are a little too narrow so out with a couple of files and a few minutes later, the wheel slotted in. Then found that I needed to remove one of the washers from one side and put the plain washer inside the dropout lock washer to keep the wheel even between the forks so the hub doesn't rub. Once done, it spins in place nicely.







I'd have liked the option for a black version of the hub as everything else on the bike is black but you can't have everything. Now to adjust the brakes for the new rim, which is slightly wider than my old one and that'll be another step completed.

 

[Az.]

to keep the wheel even between the forks so the hub doesn't rub.

Hub was rubbing fork there?

 

[SafetyThird]

 

[Peter.Bridge]

You could use an adapter to fit the battery rather than drilling that nice Thorn frame.
I got one of these:-

Electric Bicycle Frame Battery Box Mount For HaiLong E-bike Coversion Adapter | eBay

Mine was the same as the above but from Amazon. I think it was about £22.00.
There are lots of different types available but I chose this one as it gave the most position options. It is also longer than some, so supports the battery slider better.
The one I bought also came with two large "hose clip" type clamps, but I have found that the original braze-ons on my steel frame are sturdy enough without them.

Just bought this one yesterday

 

[saneagle]

View attachment 52965

I'd fit a torque arm to those forks.

 

[SafetyThird]

Just bought this one yesterday

That looks to be the same one I bought. Saw it on AE but wanted it today

 

[SafetyThird]

I'd fit a torque arm to those forks.

Any particular reason? Everything I’ve read says that torque arms are only usually used on aluminium forks but it’s ok on steel. My forks are steel so thought I’d be ok.
Happy to add one if folks think it worthwhile.

 

[Woosh]

The XF07 weighs only 2.7kgs. Saneagle broke his fork with a BPM weighing 4.5kgs. Your controller is 17A sinewave, his was then square wave, 22A. The situations are not the same. I fit torque arms to the BPM but not XF07. What breaks the forks jaws is the inertia especially when the wheel hits a pothole.

 

[Az.]

I think torque arm here is not necessary, but it won't hurt if installed. It is only few £, so might be worth it to go an extra mile.