Fun while it lasted! Any troubleshooting advice?

[Darthpaul]

Well after just 140 miles my conversion has died. On a run this afternoon it started to cough and splitter going on and off then finally going altogether. I’ve got a spare controller (bought in error) so went to fit that. I then noticed one of the resistors was quite burnt so thought it may be that, however even with the new controller I’ve got no power. The screen powers on, but the bars on the power scale are empty but it shows as 52v (48v battery fully charged). Motor won’t turn and I get the hall sensor error on the screen. Any ideas? It’s a AKM-100 motor

 

[Michael Price]

On of on off sounds like the battery - or the controller thinks the battery is going
I say that because when the battery on my old bike was running very low that is exactly what it used to do

 

[Darthpaul]

99% sure battery is ok. Further troubleshooting shows that when the motor is connected the battery bars are empty, take the motor off, battery bars are full. Does that with both controllers.

 

[Nealh]

Test the motor halls with a meter though depends on the controller wire connectors.
Turn the bike on, use 20v dc om the meter.
1. Probe + & - thin hall wires for 5v.
2. Next test -/gnd Black wire with Black probe & Red probe against the three hall wires, slowly turn the wheel AC/W you should see 5v switching. If you don't see 5v with #1 or #2 then that hall is blown.
SS41 for a replacement.

Also check the hall motor connection at the controller if it uses the white six wire DJ7061 connector.

 

[Darthpaul]

Cheers Nealh. Will give that a go once I get my hands on a multi meter

 

[Nealh]

If you connectors are Julet then you find it difficult to access the wiring so you will have to open the controller to probe off the pcb contacts, as it will all be live be very careful of shorting and make very sure the contacts you need to probe.