I wouldn't advise even attempting to loosen the flush allen bolts on either side, unless you want to remove the frame. The bolts are done up and sealed with a locking compound. If you disturb them the bushes will become loose and the whole back frame will develop side to side play.It seems there is something I can unscrew. But not sure.
Thanks Jerry.I would advise even attempting to loosen the flush allen bolts on either side, unless you want to remove the frame. The bolts are done up and sealed with a locking compound. If you disturb them the bushes will become loose and the whole back frame will develop side to side play.
Reghards
Jerry
The whole Brompton frame, rear and front forks are steel.only proviso is that the forks are steel not alloy. John
Today is my lucky day! Thanks a lot John. PM sent.Still following this thread cwah seems you still need some thinking time, however I am still here and have MIG welder plus 50 years experience in engineering, only proviso is that the forks are steel not alloy. John
That's a good idea Dave.Cwah, if you can remove the whole front of the bike at the folding point, then remove the pedals, You wouldn't need a very big box to send it to John.
I just had another thought. I was wondering whether you could modify a front motor rather than use that one. I made an adapter like this from a pressed steel BMX hub. If the motor side plate is thick enough, you could drill some holes in it and bolt the adaptor to the side for a total width of about 120mm.
Bafang Crank drive pictures by d8veh - Photobucket
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Brazed as per the info published on their web site here.Excuse my ignorance, but are Brompton frames welded or brazed?
Sorry Jerry, maybe I dimmer than usual tonight, I know you are not, but steel is an alloy, so I am not sure what you meant?Brazed as per the info published on their web site here.
Interestingly it mentions steel alloys for the frame construction ?
Regards
Jerry
Thanks WurlyWhy don't you hacksaw down through the crosstube first, then you will be able to prise the forks apart. I also think that the dropouts will need pulling back to align with the hub. If so, cut some reliefs (we call 'em piecuts) in the tubes near the dropouts, then....when the motor is fitted in place you can finally get the frame welded. I've had years of fabricating and thats how i would approach it.
In fact, i'm heading up your way on Sunday. If you can get to the M25 somewhere, i'll take your rear frame with me and i'll do it for you. You can organise a courier to get it back. I have a tig welder also.
Another thought....i have a powerful propane torch so i can also heat the frame instead to align the dropouts. You will have to paint it after of course.