Woosh Help with a woosh conversion kit
- Thread starter Abzy
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- ebike help needed woosh woosh ebike
Hi what's the difference between:
XF08C Rear Hub Kit WITH 17AH Battery
85SX Rear Hub Kit WITH 17AH Battery
?
only the motor is different.
The XF08C is heavier and has a bit more torque.
| Motor name | Weight/Dia/Fitting/Torque | Properties |
| Q70 | 1.5kgs 100mm 35NM | front motor wheels, available without rim or in 16" rim for the Brompton |
| XF07 | 2.8kgs 120mm 42NM | front motor wheels, available in 20", 26" and 700C(28") rims |
| 85SX | 2.0kgs 100mm cassette 40NM | AIKEMA lightweight rear motor wheels, available in 26" and 700C(28") rims |
| XF08C | 2.9kgs 120mm cassette 45NM | MXUS rear motor wheels, available in 26" and 700C(28") rims |
| SWX02 | 3.9kgs 140mm freewheel 50NM | BAFANG rear motor wheels, available in 26" and 700C(28") rims |
| SWX02-48V | 3.9kgs 140mm freewheel 60NM | BAFANG 48V 250W rear motor wheels, available in 26" and 700C(28") rims |
| DWG22C-48V | 3.9kgs 160mm cassette 60NM | Direct replacement for BAFANG 48V CST, huge torque, cassette fitting available in 26" and 700C(28") rims |
| BPM FRONT | 4.5kgs 160mm freewheel 50NM | BAFANG 250W front motor wheels, available in 26" rims |
| BPM REAR | 4.5kgs 160mm freewheel 50NM | BAFANG 350W rear motor wheels, available in 26" rims |
| FAT G06 | 5.1kgs 160mm freewheel 65NM | BAFANG G06 250W rear motor wheel for fat bikes, available with or without 26" rim |
It is usually 135mm.
You can use a motor that has the same dropout or +/- up to 5mm.
This is because you can re-arrange the antitorque washers that come with the motor to make up the difference.
In the picture below, the dropout is 127mm.
How more miles will I get if I buy theIt is usually 135mm.
You can use a motor that has the same dropout or +/- up to 5mm.
This is because you can re-arrange the antitorque washers that come with the motor to make up the difference.
In the picture below, the dropout is 127mm.
XF08C Rear Hub Kit WITH 17AH Battery
Instead of the
XF08C Rear Hub Kit with 13AH Battery
?
Thanks
11 extra miles:
Assuming 36V, 13Ah is 468Wh and 17 is 612. If you use low assistance settings you can expect to use about 10Wh per mile, and 16 at higher settings.
A mixture of high and low assistance will need about 13Wh per mile, giving 36 miles from the 13Ah battery and 47 from the 17Ah, an additional 11 miles.
In practice, however, you don't want to run your battery flat, so take off 20% from all those numbers.
As well as the range implications:
(1) The 17ah will need fewer recharge cycles so may last longer: depends on the relative importance of age and recharge cycles. So the price difference in terms of tco is less than the upfront difference.
(2) The 17ah probably either more parallel groups, or higher capacity cells. Either way it is likely to suffer less from voltage sag. After staying 5 bars out of 5 for quite some time at the start of a ride after charge (5 bars must be a lot less than full), our 13ah with XF07 typically sags two bars as soon as we hit a significant hill. Very noticeable at near the end of a ride with depleted batteries (and depleted riders)
I'd been meaning to ask the experts here for some time if those were valid points. If I were buying again I'd go for the 17ah.
(1) The 17ah will need fewer recharge cycles so may last longer: depends on the relative importance of age and recharge cycles. So the price difference in terms of tco is less than the upfront difference.
(2) The 17ah probably either more parallel groups, or higher capacity cells. Either way it is likely to suffer less from voltage sag. After staying 5 bars out of 5 for quite some time at the start of a ride after charge (5 bars must be a lot less than full), our 13ah with XF07 typically sags two bars as soon as we hit a significant hill. Very noticeable at near the end of a ride with depleted batteries (and depleted riders)
I'd been meaning to ask the experts here for some time if those were valid points. If I were buying again I'd go for the 17ah.
Approx. 30% more range.
In low assist mode one could see over 60 miles, depending on your wh per mile usage. Only you will know your wh per mile use by dividing the battery wh by the miles ridden to lvc.
The cell specs have a usable voltage range of 3.2v to 4.2v so taking a battery down to lvc at 3.2v is not a real issue if one has too on a ride. It is the very deep discharges of below 3.2v where issues will arise over time.
In low assist mode one could see over 60 miles, depending on your wh per mile usage. Only you will know your wh per mile use by dividing the battery wh by the miles ridden to lvc.
The cell specs have a usable voltage range of 3.2v to 4.2v so taking a battery down to lvc at 3.2v is not a real issue if one has too on a ride. It is the very deep discharges of below 3.2v where issues will arise over time.
if you can, send some pictures of the bottom bracket area to kits@wooshbikes.co.uk - Andy will suggest the most suitable pedal sensor to use.
The choice depends on the chainset you have. If it has external ballbearings, then the cranks themselves are also easy to remove. In that case, a hollowtech type pedal sensor is the best.
If you have a square taper type cranks, then he will check if there is enough space on the left side to fit a left side pedal sensor. You still have the hassle of pulling the left crank out.
If you have never used a crank puller, let us know, we would usually suggest a seat tube mount pedal sensor. You use the supplied sticky pads to fix the semi-circle magnet ring to the chainring and cabletie the sensor head to the seat tube. This is the easiest method.
You can find the installation manual here:
Semi-circle magnet ring (you don't have to remove the chainring to install this):
Seat post mount pedal sensor:
Do I need to add a pedal sensor and how does the seat sensor work?if you can, send some pictures of the bottom bracket area to kits@wooshbikes.co.uk - Andy will suggest the most suitable pedal sensor to use.
The choice depends on the chainset you have. If it has external ballbearings, then the cranks themselves are also easy to remove. In that case, a hollowtech type pedal sensor is the best.
If you have a square taper type cranks, then he will check if there is enough space on the left side to fit a left side pedal sensor. You still have the hassle of pulling the left crank out.
If you have never used a crank puller, let us know, we would usually suggest a seat tube mount pedal sensor. You use the supplied sticky pads to fix the semi-circle magnet ring to the chainring and cabletie the sensor head to the seat tube. This is the easiest method.
You can find the installation manual here:
Semi-circle magnet ring (you don't have to remove the chainring to install this):
Seat post mount pedal sensor:
you need to fit the pedal sensor.
it comes with the kit, you only need to specify which one you want.
If you order online, the choices are from the dropdown box.
If you order by email, Andy will get in touch and sort out the best one for you.
Each magnet ring has 12 magnets on it.
When you pedal, the chainring moves the magnets.
The sensor has two Hall elements inside. When a magnet passes in front of the sensor head, they detect the direction and speed of your pedalling and if you pedal forward, they send pulses to the controller which powers the motor. They don't do anything if you pedal backward.
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