Help! Jorvick 24 trike / throttle

[Nealh]

Controller as has been said is the brains of the bike , it contains the pre programmed PCB . The motor, battery and all other peripheral items are wired to it.
The display is on the handle bars one selects the assist level to use , some internet numpties call it the controller as they simply don't understand the terminology used.
Some batteries do have the controller mounted at the base of the battery holder and some use a separate controller which is an aluminium box approx. 8.5cm x 6.5cm, to know which you have look to see where all the bikes wiring goes to.

If all the wiring emanates form the base of the battery holder , then you will have the integrated battery holder with controller .

 

[Nealh]

A new battery is just that , it doesn't come with a new supplied controller.

One buys a compatible controller separately.

 

[Mee]

Controller as has been said is the brains of the bike , it contains the pre programmed PCB . The motor, battery and all other peripheral items are wired to it.
The display is on the handle bars one selects the assist level to use , some internet numpties call it the controller as they simply don't understand the terminology used.
Some batteries do have the controller mounted at the base of the battery holder and some use a separate controller which is an aluminium box approx. 8.5cm x 6.5cm, to know which you have look to see where all the bikes wiring goes to.

If all the wiring emanates form the base of the battery holder , then you will have the integrated battery holder with controller .

Jorvik state the controller is the battery mount, but what I need to know is can I replace this mount with a compatible. will the compatible have a controller that works with my Jorvik trike?

 

[Nealh]

We don't want to know where you live just a location, suffice to say a town /city location or county so someone nearby may be ale to offer help.

 

[Mee]

A new battery is just that , it doesn't come with anew supplied controller.

But they come with a replacement mount, so does that mount have a compatible controller or do I need to train the Jorvik one and somehow find a battery that will fit on the Jorvik bar?

 

[Mee]

We don't want to know where you live just a location, suffice to say a town /city location or county so someone nearby may be ale to offer help.

Im in north Dorset.

 

[Nealh]

But they come with a replacement mount, so does that mount have a compatible controller or do I need to train the Jorvik one and somehow find a battery that will fit on the Jorvik bar?

No , not unless the listing specifies it.

The controller doesn't need any thing done to it , it is preprogrammed and just needs battery voltage to make it work.

 

[Mee]

No , not unless the listing specifies it.

so I need to keep the Jorik battery mount and try to find a battery that fits it?

 

[Nealh]

so I need to keep the Jorik battery mount and try to find a battery that fits it?

Yes , battery mounts aren't universal so one has to buy the specific cased battery.
From what we have seen it is a Tiger shark battery.

To help determine the controller maker we need to see a pic of the handle bar display, if we can determine which brand it is one may be able to use a 48v battery instead of a 36v battery as the controller may be a dual voltage model.

Also can we see a pic of the bottom of the battery holder then we may be able to see which connector you may need , we would need a pic with the wiring and also any connectors fitted ( there are likely to be three or connectors of varying sizes.

 

[Nealh]

Im in north Dorset.

Alas I am too far away so can't physically help out.

 

[matthewslack]

so I need to keep the Jorik battery mount and try to find a battery that fits it?

There are other solutions, not so neat!

Just to recap, to check where we are... everything works fine at present except the battery is probably defective. But controller, display, motor, wiring are all fine.

So, a new battery is needed, but it is a simple two wire generic type battery. So if the old battery is removed, and any 36V ebike battery connected in its place, that will work.

The 'controller in the battery mount' issue may or may not be a problem, you will only know when the battery mount is removed and you look underneath it. If the controller is a separate aluminium case, then it can simply be removed and reused, possibly needing mounting elsewhere. If the controller is 'potted' I.e. sealed into the mount with epoxy resin, so that it is physically part of the mount, that's harder but can still be overcome. You would need to identify the battery connections entering the controller and connect to them. The battery or controller then need mounting elsewhere, and suitable wiring and connectors worked out.

Pictures when the battery is off, and then the mount removed will help a solution emerge.

It can be fixed!

 

[saneagle]

There are other solutions, not so neat!

Just to recap, to check where we are... everything works fine at present except the battery is probably defective. But controller, display, motor, wiring are all fine.

So, a new battery is needed, but it is a simple two wire generic type battery. So if the old battery is removed, and any 36V ebike battery connected in its place, that will work.

The 'controller in the battery mount' issue may or may not be a problem, you will only know when the battery mount is removed and you look underneath it. If the controller is a separate aluminium case, then it can simply be removed and reused, possibly needing mounting elsewhere. If the controller is 'potted' I.e. sealed into the mount with epoxy resin, so that it is physically part of the mount, that's harder but can still be overcome. You would need to identify the battery connections entering the controller and connect to them. The battery or controller then need mounting elsewhere, and suitable wiring and connectors worked out.

Pictures when the battery is off, and then the mount removed will help a solution emerge.

It can be fixed!

Nobody has determined that the battery is defective. According to the info above, it's simply run flat.

 

[thelarkbox]

OP If you really consider the bike to be ultra dodgy due to the seller. Dont waste a penny more on a bike that could be reclaimed from you by its rightful owner and leave you with the risk of carrying a receiving stolen goods charge.

In order to ride the bike free and clear take it to plod and report the circumstances of the purchase, admitting late realisation of the situation. If the bike goes unclaimed for 6 weeks or so (recalling situation in the 70's, unaware if its changed), it should be returned to you as unclaimed, giving you full and free title.

And if the bike is returned to its rightful owner, well it was a bad punt for you and be forewarned next time,, rewarding/ignoring thieves isnt a good call/look imho.