Thanks.
It looks like this one then? It says 350W and my motor is 250W. I'm thinking this will be fine?
￡19.15 | 36V/48V 350W Brushless DC Sine Wave Controller ebike Electric Bicycle Hub Motor Controller with right output
LCD S866 + Brainpower controller
- Thread starter oldlecky
- Start date
It looks like this one then? It says 350W and my motor is 250W. I'm thinking this will be fine?
￡19.15 | 36V/48V 350W Brushless DC Sine Wave Controller ebike Electric Bicycle Hub Motor Controller with right output
You need the LCD that goes with it, which will double the price.
Thanks, yes I appreciate that, I'll probably go for the lcd5.
I learned a lot from you guys over the past few days. It's really appreciated!!!!!!
The 6 fet KT controllers get very hot if using PAS 5 and do lots of climbing esp at slower speed, my ones got so hot I couldn't hold them without burning my hand. Temporary the they shut down thermally, the fets I think short as a protection then switch again once cooled,
The 9 frt ones run cooler and I can hold them though they are warm, I have verified this under similar conditions off road on the South Downs.
The 9 frt ones run cooler and I can hold them though they are warm, I have verified this under similar conditions off road on the South Downs.
I have my bike running thanks to you guys I am waiting for the rest of the stuf
Great stuff. I've just started getting delivery of my bits, so hopefully I'll have a positive result too, thanks to the help from the guys on here.
Great bikes. What do you think of the noise/hum coming from the motor with the brainpower controller(or did you get a KT?)? I kind of like it, but to be fair it does show we're dealing with a cheap controller. I've swapped out three controllers for a brainpower so far and they all work without issues. Speaking of bang for your buck, huh?
Hi, hope it's ok to ask this here...
On a new installation with new parts, I'm getting the E 09 error code. No noise or movement from the motor. During assembly I stupidly caused a short due to forgetting to disconnect the battery. However, everything seems fine in the LCD display with the exception of this code.
I need help with troubleshooting steps, to see if I have fried the controller.
Unfortunately, I'm doing this on a 'Urbanext' wheel where the controller is mounted within the motor, which means total disassembly/reassembly with each test.
I do have a multimeter.
On a new installation with new parts, I'm getting the E 09 error code. No noise or movement from the motor. During assembly I stupidly caused a short due to forgetting to disconnect the battery. However, everything seems fine in the LCD display with the exception of this code.
I need help with troubleshooting steps, to see if I have fried the controller.
Unfortunately, I'm doing this on a 'Urbanext' wheel where the controller is mounted within the motor, which means total disassembly/reassembly with each test.
I do have a multimeter.
Ideally you should have started a new thread rather then hijack another which utilises a completely different set up.
Most common fault is a blown mosfet on the controller, if a short has caused a fault.
Test is with no power and you are looking for continuity.
Set meter to 200 ohm range and test the 3 phase wires each against the v- Black all three tests should be near the same so about/ up to 14k, you are not looking for a certain figure but three readings as near as damn it. I one is wildly different then it is faulty.
Then do the same 3 tests with the Red v+ wire you may or may not see a similar figure and only may see the figure 1 recorded against each phase test, if so that is good. If any record 0 then Mosfet is toast.
A toasted Mosfet may mean other pcb damage may have occurred so resisters or diodes possibly.
Most common fault is a blown mosfet on the controller, if a short has caused a fault.
Test is with no power and you are looking for continuity.
Set meter to 200 ohm range and test the 3 phase wires each against the v- Black all three tests should be near the same so about/ up to 14k, you are not looking for a certain figure but three readings as near as damn it. I one is wildly different then it is faulty.
Then do the same 3 tests with the Red v+ wire you may or may not see a similar figure and only may see the figure 1 recorded against each phase test, if so that is good. If any record 0 then Mosfet is toast.
A toasted Mosfet may mean other pcb damage may have occurred so resisters or diodes possibly.
Ah sorry, I'm using the same controller/LCD as the other posters on this thread so thought it'd be ok.
I'll start a new thread in future.
Thanks for your reply, I'll try your suggestions tomorrow.
I did the test & I'm getting 12.5k on all v- to phase wires & 1 on all v+ to phase wires.
On disassembly of the motor I discovered the sensor wires have all broken at the 3 hall sensors.
I'm not sure if this happened before or after the E 09 fault.
Unfortunately, I had to destroy the sensors to get them out of the motor (there were no legs left to solder to) but I know they were working before I assembled the motor as I tested them with a magnet.
I noticed that the 1st sensor was wired (v+v-com) the 2nd (comv-v+) the 3rd (v+comv-) such that when a magnet passed them the com signals would change S1= 5v to 0.3v , S2=0.3v to 5v & S3= 5v to 0.3v.
They would then change back in the opposite pattern with the next magnet pass.
Does this look correct to you?
I'm wondering if it's worth trying to replace the sensors & try again or if the controller is fried & I'm wasting time/money.
What would you do?
You must have somehow connected the battery voltage to the 5V rail to blow the sensors like that. Unfortunately, the 5V is common to the controller's CPU, the throttle and the pedal sensor, so there's a fair chance that you've blown everything connected except the motor windings.
You can replace the hall sensors with any bipolar ones like SS41.
You can test the throttle and PAS by applying 5v to the red and black wires, then measuring what happens on the signal wires when you operate them.
You can replace the hall sensors with any bipolar ones like SS41.
You can test the throttle and PAS by applying 5v to the red and black wires, then measuring what happens on the signal wires when you operate them.
I think the sensors broke due to mechanical stress because I tested them after the short incident & did move them a bit whilst doing it.
You might be right though.
Do you think they were wired correctly originally, from my description?
I've never heard of hall sensors being wrongly wired by a manufacturer. I've seen some that looked wrongly wired before, but when you follow the wires and figure them out, they're correct - always ground in the middle, Vcc on pin 1 and signal on pin 3.
So they should all be wired in the same orientation?
The wires are colour coded & easy to follow so I'm certain they were as I mentioned.
Interestingly, the original owner of this motor said it had never worked. I assumed it had a bad controller hence fitting the brainpower unit, but maybe it was wired wrong from the factory.
I think I'll order some hall sensors & see if I can wire it as you describe.
Thanks for the help!
Hall sensors will only work if you have Vcc on pin 1 and ground on the middle pin.
Hi everyone, and forgive me if post in a wrong place. I bought and installed a brainpower controller that came with the S866 display. And only afterwards I discovered that my motor doesn't have hall sensors. The controller has hall sensors and it seems that the whole thing doesn't work. Is there anything I can do?
You muddied the waters a little by saying;
It now sounds like you are using the Brainpower as an external controller which isn't made clear. Unless I have totally misunderstood again.