LCD S866 + Brainpower controller

[AndreyAv]

Hello. I eventually installed KT36V controller with LCD5 screen on my Fiido D2 bike.
It works well but I have a couple of questions.
It seems that my motor doesn't have speed sensor - hall connector has only 5 wires while the same connector on the contoller has 6 wires (it seems white wire is for speed sensor). Does it mean that I will not see speed on the screen, and also I can't use speed-related PAS mode, and max speed parameter will not work? Don't hall sensor measure speed?
Second question is headlight. Controller has such connector, I tried to enable light via screen, but there was no any voltage on that connector. How it works?

 

[Nealh]

If you want to see a constant LCD reading you can fit a spoke magnet and any after market three wire speed sensor on the chain stay. The wiring then is fairly simple, the Gnd wire (Black) is connected to any Gnd in or exiting the controller. The same goes for the +5v (Red), you could splice in to PAS/Throttle wiring, Hall block wiring or if capable solder direct to the controller pcb. The third wire signal (colour may be white/Grey or any other colour) is wired to the White pin of the Hall block.
Then select P2/ 1 parameter in the LCD settings.

 

[Nealh]

For lights you need to use the KT handle bar light/horn switch for operation, my commute bike utilises one for front and back simultaneously. Out put is 5V so lighting needs to be 5v capable.

P.s.
Might have made a mistake output is full voltage I believe as my lights are 36/48v.

 

[AndreyAv]

Thanks for answers.
I don't have spokes, i have aluminium rims, so aftermarket speed sensor is not trivial way for solving the issue. I think I can live without speed..
Regarding headlight - LCD5 manual says that long press of UP button enables headlight. And it really turns backlight on and also turns light sign on the screen. But there is no any voltage on the connector.
Possible that connector is not voltage but just relay output?.. What is the device you mentioned for light switching?

 

[Nealh]

For my KT controller I use this Wuxing horn/light switch which simply connects to the two the twin light/horn out put from the controller.

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For my commute /town riding I use this Wuxing light, plenty bright enough to be seen on town /commute roads.

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For a rear light I simply wire one like this in parallel.

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[AndreyAv]

I have exactly the same headlight... I didn't know that it can work from 36v.
I will make an adapter to connect that light from KT controller connector directly, without a switch.
Thanks.

 

[AndreyAv]

I made the first ride. It seems that something works wrong.
It starts up on PAS, then acccelerates to about 6 kmh and then happens strange sound like strong electric motor startup, in the same moment torque disappears, and then strage sound of increasing rotation speed without any real torque on the wheel. And it shows some constant speed on display.
May be it is wrong wiring? Or wrong setup?

 

[Nealh]

Are you saying the bike works but makes an electrical noise like electrical wire shorting/ electrical cracking/contact noise or something else is happening ?

 

[AndreyAv]

No, unfortunately it doesn't work.
It works in walk assist mode - drives at 6 km/h even if I am sitting on the bike.
But in usual PAS assisting mode it starts to assist, but then at 7-8 km/h it makes an electrical cracking noice and then makes spinup noice and stops producing any torque on the wheel.
Here is the video of the process:

The motor starts at about 5s, and then "fails" at about 6s.
Possibly I have to perform some "learning" (connected blue wire on KT)?
Note that speed is displayed well while the motor works, and it increases while motor is spinning up abnormally.
Also note that it shows speed when the motor is off but I just walking backwards with the bike. It is strange for me.

 

[Nealh]

KT's don't have a learn wire, phase is configured via C2 setting
List your P & C setting so we can have a look.
Importantly C2 should be value 0 but if this doesn't help try the other values.
With a motor not working properly try not to apply throttle/max current until motor works smoothly in PAS 1 or 2.
Double check all phase connections are good as well as the hall's, lastly also recheck motor connection is fully inserted correctly.

 

[AndreyAv]

P1=87 (checked with real wheel RPM on walk mode - seems to be correct)
P2=0 P3=0 P4=0 P5=12
C1=5 C2=0 C3=8 C4=0 C5=10 C6=1 C7=0 C8=0 C9=0 C10=n C11=0 C12=4 C13=0 C14=2
Motor wires are connected color-to-color, contact is good.

I tried to play with C5 - limited max current with a half value using C5=3 - now I can drive across my room (about 7 meters) without motor failure on 4th PAS level. It seems like motor can't handle too big current?

Upd: what about displaying speed while passive drive back? Is it ok?
Upd2: it seems that light connector on the controller gives battery voltage constantly, even if display if off. So it is not possible to connect headlight directly, I have to order headlight switch like you mentioned earlier..

 

[Nealh]

What is the controller current max rating ?

P2 is usually 1 or 6 for geared hubs, P2 is for lcd speed reading.
P3 /1 for current control. You currently have this set as 0 for speed control, it gives max current in all PAS but varies the speed in each PAS level.
Using current control value 1 gives max speed in all PAS but varies the current in each PAS level for smoother power transition.

C1 /1.

More likely that your battery can't deliver the amps/current being asked of it, hence why the motor cuts out. Hub motors don't usually mind how much power/current is delivered though eventually they will fail from heat, usually Planetary gears fail first. Try the P3/1 setting as current control is better.

 

[AndreyAv]

It is KT36V 250W, i don't remember exact value, but it seems it is something like 14A. Original Fiido controller is 13A. So battery have to be a good pair for this controller.
Any P2 except 0 doesn't show any speed on the display. Possibly this parameter is for motors with build-in speed sensor, and 0 just shows speed using hall sensors. P2=0 shows correct speed in walk assist mode.
P3. I've changed to 1 and don't see difference. Actually initially it was 1, and later I changed to 0 as an experiment.
C1. I have KT-V12L PAS which is reverse 12 signal. Initial value was 7 for standard sensitivity, I changed it to 5 to get PAS assisting detected as soon as possible. And it works as designed - PAS starts motor faster. I've tried to set 1 - PAS doesn't work at all.

So, let's confirm a couple of facts:
1. Walk assist mode works well, bike keeps (and shows) correct speed about 5.9 km/h. So motor phases and hall sensor are connected well. Correct?
2. When I'm trying to drive on PAS, it starts to accelerate till about 8 km/h, and then I hear that strange sound. After that bike stop acceleration BUT the motor spins up rapidly and display increasing speed up to 25 km/h. It seems like the motor works as designed, but doesn't provide torque on the wheel. Possible mechanical failure? Internal motor freewheel for example. But it worked well with the stock controller on all speeds and loads..

 

[AndreyAv]

Also, I've removed cover of the motor.
Here is walkassist mode:

When motor starts satellite gears stop rotation. Seems like some clutch do that. It is correct behavior.
Here is PAS mode:

At the moment of strange noice satellite gears start rotation, so it seems that the clutch was released for some reason. I don't know how motorwheels work, but the issue may be as mechanical so electrical. Could you comment?

 

[AndreyAv]

The next update..
I've read a couple of articles and watched videos. It seems that my freewheel is broken. It should be released when pedaling and blocked while motor is assisting. And it is being blocked at the beginning of powered rotation but then it slips off.
Possibly the curve of current increasing should be smoother, but KT doesn't have settings to do that except mentioned P3.

 

[Lorenzo Mozz]

Dear Pedelecs, I have been fighting with the S866 and its controller for a few months ... and, looking for a more complete manual, I found you ... I read the 13 pages of questions and answers and thank you for the time you dedicate us. I still have some problems, like the one that the bike does not exceed 14 km / h, although everything seems to work. Do you have any idea why? selecting P20 different from 0 gives error E30, which is not reported in the manual: what does it mean? is it not possible to reset to factory values? thanks

 

[Wim van Arkel]

Great bikes. What do you think of the noise/hum coming from the motor with the brainpower controller(or did you get a KT?)? I kind of like it, but to be fair it does show we're dealing with a cheap controller. I've swapped out three controllers for a brainpower so far and they all work without issues. Speaking of bang for your buck, huh?

I stil have Error 07 do you nog how i can fix this gr Wim

 

[Ray Tracer]

For lights you need to use the KT handle bar light/horn switch for operation, my commute bike utilises one for front and back simultaneously. Out put is 5V so lighting needs to be 5v capable.

P.s.
Might have made a mistake output is full voltage I believe as my lights are 36/48v.

Output is full voltage, but if I connect anything I get an ERR 10
I want to connect a step-down converter to run my 6v fron/back lights.

Anyybody knows anything about how to connect lights directy to the controller?
I'd also be fine with 5V/0,5A...

Cheers, Ray

 

[AndreyAv]

Anyybody knows anything about how to connect lights directy to the controller?

My C&D version of KT36V has front light output, but it just outputs constant battery voltage always. If you have the same, you should buy front light switch and connect it as a switch in the light circuit. If your light is 5-6V you should also include step-down converter in the circuit.
I know some original KT controllers has outputs for lights which are already being switched when LCD backlight is switched - in that case you don't need aux switch.

 

[Speedee]

I stil have Error 07 do you nog how i can fix this gr Wim

Hi Wim, I just noticed your question now. E07 has occurred on all of my Brainpower installs so far (even when nothing is wrong) and can easily be cleared by connecting a throttle and spinning up the motor with it above 6 Km/h. After that E07 hasn't come back on my installs. It's almost like it's part of the initial setup process. I do disable throttle in the display setting afterwards and completely remove the throttle from the bicycle to comply with EU regulations. If you already have a throttle on your bicycle and you still get E07 then something is wrong; the controller seems to have sensed a problem with the hall sensors. This could be a bad/loose contact in the wiring (even a bad connector or wire that has come loose inside the motor etc) or a broken hall sensor.