it's fairly straightforward to install, no drilling hole! Andy can get the kit out to you this afternoon and you could be riding electric this weekend!
Help! Looking for an alternative to Swytch and would appreciate some advice in Conversion Kits General Discussion.
- Thread starter SafetyThird
- Start date
Why do you keep writing such nonsense? Most kit mid-drive motors and many hub motors exceed the 250W rating, that is only 7A at 36V. Almost everything is illegal in the ebike kit world they just restrict it to 15.5mph and give a fake 250W rating label. How many people have a ebike restricted to 7A current with perhaps short time boosts to 11A? Bosch ebikes can be at 22A at 36V climbing hills for a prolonged period until heat issues. There are plenty of mid-drive motors that aren't great hill climbing bikes and there are many high powered hub motors that can achieve around 60Nm which puts them in the same territory as many non e-mountain bike mid-drive motors. Again I do have a Tosheng mid drive motor I just don't see the point in it for general riding with the extra complexity and accelerated drivetrain wear for longer trips it makes the bike less reliable which is not what you want when a long way from home.
The Rohloff and front hub motor will be a fantastic combination it will massively reduce wear on the Rohloff because now when hill climbing the front hub motor will take a lot of wear of it. This will massively extend its working lifespan. It's a brilliant combination and I would say the ideal combination. Rohloff's do fail at times and probably almost guaranteed to fail with a mid-drive motor where high torque output is combined with the riders own power to perhaps give 4-5x the normal power through the Rohloff. It was not designed for that.
I agree. It's not possible to fit a Bafang BBS01 or a TSDZ2 to the Thorn Raven because it has excentric bottom bracket and the lock nut for the BB is on the underside of the BB shell.
A front hub on stepp hills may produce some wheel slip though depends on how much cuurent is put through it.
My rear hub Bafang CST had no issue getting me up Ditchling beacon 6 or 7 years ago from the very bottom, 9% average, a couple of 16% in places.
My rear hub Bafang CST had no issue getting me up Ditchling beacon 6 or 7 years ago from the very bottom, 9% average, a couple of 16% in places.
How much current is a Bafang CST capable of reliably withstanding, without bursting into flames and/or melting?
Using just throttle? My BBS01B did that with just throttle right out of the box (before I discovered throttles were illegal), admittedly on a bike with 20" wheels. Is your CST marked 250W by the manufacturer?
60Nm is crap, would have got me duffed up and/or stabbed and my bike "grabbed". Those running step noises got awfully close. Useless.
Buy yourself a legally rated 250W motor, marked "250W" by the manufacturer. It'll be rubbish at hills without high current, which might strip nylon gears.
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60nm is fine for a hub motor, ive got a 48v rear hub hpm motor with a 23a controller and it gets me up 100% of all paved road paths with zero issues and the torque is more than ample.
I also have a 52v bbshd for off road fun
In some ways i prefer riding the hub bike, its taken me a bit to get used to the gear depending mid drive and not as much difference as you think.
Using just throttle? The reason why I keep asking this, is to remove the leg power component. Which I lack oodles of. To be clear, I currently have two legs. Even when aged, people who have cycled all their lives will generally have less difficulty than those that haven't, when it comes to tackling hills riding hub motored bikes. I stopped cycling in the late 80's, started again in 2020.
If your not looking to peddle at all then stick to the mid drive.
you can experiment using the grin motor simulator, saves you buying the wrong bike.
Pay attention to point/time when the motor overheats on the calculator , adjust the hill grade to suit.
Motor Simulator - Tools
Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...
I don't have a throttle, removed it when I discovered they're illegal. My BBS01B firmware is set up to provide 100% "Keep current" on all levels, and I only ever use the highest PAS level , which is set to 100% of 15A - it's pretty much a throttleless moped activated by ghost pedalling, and I still barely got away from a merry funster's grasp. A throttle wouldn't have increased my hill climbing speed. I'll be increasing controller amps to 19, because one thug got far too close. The GoPro's mics aren't rear facing, their pickup pattern isn't ideal for that situation, but my ears are... despite that, some faint thumping can be heard around the 17 second mark, if listening using high quality headphones (Sennheiser HD600).
Thanks, but I've given up on the idea of hub drive conversion for my Dahon Espresso. I've only got a 20A battery (22A BMS).
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That was fast...After a couple of email exchanges with Andy at Woosh bikes, I've just ordered a front hub kit with 20AH downtube battery. Looks like I'll be wooshing around very soon
Looking forward to see some pictures.
Absolutely cannot fault the customer service at Woosh. email replies within 30 minutes, asked questions and for photos to ensure I'm getting the most suitable parts for my bike and advised on a couple of questions I asked about e-bikes in general.
After everything I've read about the customer service at Swytch, this sort of response bodes much better for a reliable bike install and support if it's needed.
Thanks again to everyone who suggested Woosh.
After everything I've read about the customer service at Swytch, this sort of response bodes much better for a reliable bike install and support if it's needed.
Thanks again to everyone who suggested Woosh.
You are welcome.
Much better than waiting a year for Swytch, isn't it?
Personally I think 20Ah is an overkill for your needs. There was a time I was also thinking the bigger the better. Not anymore. Big batteries are very heavy and ugly.
Not for hills they're not - bigger is better, they also facilitate continuous ascension of hills despite voltage sag. Plus in a few years when capacity drops, they will still provide useful range. A couple of extra kgs is no sweat when you have an ebike. 19.2Ah was the largest my seller had available for the UK, would have bought bigger.
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Lets agree to disagree...
On a positive note this battery has Panasonic cells and is coming from reputable source.
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