Doesn't everybody expect the same thing when they buy a new bike, their bike just works?
What's the difference?
Modifying to Torque Sensing
- Thread starter JohnD135
- Start date
What's the difference?
That's what I said. It's you that seems to be confused about having to do settings or something.
You implied in that post that if the bike does not have a KT controller, the same expectation won't be realised.
You rubbished Lishui for no good reason. Mechaniker can defend Lishui products much better than I can. Mechaniker has confirmed that Lishui supply what their OEM customers ask for, speed control, current control and a mixture between the two (that is what I choose).
I choose Lishui because their controllers are reliable, that helps my bottom line. I also sell bikes with controllers from Bafang, Tongsheng, JYT, Ananda. I have also bought 50 of KT LCD3 and two KT controllers for testing and still have most of them.
To the OP's original question, there are very good reasons why he should get a torque sensor kit instead of a cadence sensor kit. A torque sensor kit is perfect for non demanding trails. You get to keep your muscle tone. I don't have the exact kit he needs so I stayed out of bidding for his purchase.
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I have used kt controllers with minimum config, top speed, wheel size and then set the parameters to make the throttle legal if I'm fitting one.
I think the thing I like is I can easily control how much assistance I am getting rather than an algorithm working it out - 13%, 20%, 33% 50% or 100% of full power. I could cycle up the same hill and depending how I'm feeling I can dial in as much or as little assistance as I like. I think the only thing I would say is that with a reasonably powerful controller, even level 1 on the flat will take me past 15.5 mph. I understand I am having to set the assistance manually when an algorithm could possibly do that for me, but I'm not sure it's really torque control - Sometimes I don't want to pedal hard to get assistance or when I am pedalling hard I don't need assistance. I quite understand other people have different requirements
I think the thing I like is I can easily control how much assistance I am getting rather than an algorithm working it out - 13%, 20%, 33% 50% or 100% of full power. I could cycle up the same hill and depending how I'm feeling I can dial in as much or as little assistance as I like. I think the only thing I would say is that with a reasonably powerful controller, even level 1 on the flat will take me past 15.5 mph. I understand I am having to set the assistance manually when an algorithm could possibly do that for me, but I'm not sure it's really torque control - Sometimes I don't want to pedal hard to get assistance or when I am pedalling hard I don't need assistance. I quite understand other people have different requirements
yes, I could but I don´t like badmouth the competitors because it´s not my style.
I only like to say, from a technological standpoint, software + hardware capability Lishui is in compare simply far ahead
Hi All.
The controller (KT) has arrived and I have started fitting. The plug to the motor was too stiff to fit onto the old motor plug. So I decided to remove the new 9 pin connector and fit the old one to the connector. But i found that the 9 pin connector has 9 wires. Not very surprising i suppose. However the old connector has only three wires! Any suggestions guys?
The controller (KT) has arrived and I have started fitting. The plug to the motor was too stiff to fit onto the old motor plug. So I decided to remove the new 9 pin connector and fit the old one to the connector. But i found that the 9 pin connector has 9 wires. Not very surprising i suppose. However the old connector has only three wires! Any suggestions guys?
A three pin connector on the motor means that it's sensorless and you need a sensorless controller. I don't quite understand what you're saying. The important thing is how many wires are in the motor cable attached to the motor. You said originally that it was a 9-pin cconnector. Is that right? All cables with 9 pin connectors have 8 or 9 wires in them, not 3.
I checked carefully and you are correct! I was using my somewhat unreliable memory. From the motor connector I have three thicker wires, green, yellow and blue. Also six thinner wires, red, yellow green, blue, black and white. All the wires connect into the controller except the white wire. I had look inside the new controller and all wires connect into the printed circuit board, including the white one. So would you say I am good to go please? Thank you for your very fast response.
Yes, that sounds good. Occasionally, there isn't a speed sensor in the motor, so the white wire isn't connected, in which case you need to fit a wheel magnet type sensor. On some rare occasions, the wire sequence in the connector is not correct, where the wires don't go colour to colour, in which case you have to find the correct sequence by testing different combinations until you find one of the three out of 36 combinations that works.
You can get special 3-wire ebike ones that are relatively expensive unless you buy them with the controller from a Chinese supplier, or you can cut a typical two wire reed switch type off an ordinary cheap cycle computer. They all work.
Hi @saneagle ,
Can you clarify something for me concerning the absence of a speed sensor in the motor and using something else to generate a speed signal for the controller (on the white wire).
Taking a reed switch as an example, obviously one connection of the switch goes to the white wire but what about the 2nd connection - does is go to ground/0v or +5v or something else?
And the 3-wire ebike type you mention above - what is the connection arrangement for those please?
Cheers, AlanM
Can you clarify something for me concerning the absence of a speed sensor in the motor and using something else to generate a speed signal for the controller (on the white wire).
Taking a reed switch as an example, obviously one connection of the switch goes to the white wire but what about the 2nd connection - does is go to ground/0v or +5v or something else?
And the 3-wire ebike type you mention above - what is the connection arrangement for those please?
Cheers, AlanM
It depends on the controller, but I can give you a rule. Measure the voltage on the white wire coming out of the controller when it's switched on. if the white wire is 5v, the second wire goes to ground, and if it's zero volts, the other wire goes to 5v.
The three wire ones are simple because it works the same as any hall sensor. The ground goes to ground, the 5v to 5v and the signal wire to the white one. Normally, they're red, black and white, so red to red, black to black and white to white. Some controllers have a specific connector for them, but less common these days, otherwise you have to splice the red and black to any other ones on throttle, PAS or motor, or you can sold them to the pads inside the controller.
Yes it is much appreciated saneagle. I have received a new controller to replace the one that is failing and as you warned me, the wire colour, connections etc may be wrong. So I decided to start testing with the throttle and ignore the pas initially. So I have a choice of the old throttle or the new one that came with new controller. By the way, the throttle is legal on my truly ancient bike. The existing setup is throttle wiring rd wht blk going to the controller rd grn blk. The new setup is new throttle wiring rd blk grn going the the new controller rd blk white. All very confusing for me. However, am i correct in thinking that the throttle is just a resistive potentiometer and so i can use a multimeter to sort out the connections? Also, as you mentioned, I should find 0 volts and 5 volts on the controller with the third connection to the slider on the potentiometer?
A throttle is a very simple hall sensor powered by 5v. On it's own, the signal wire would give a fixed 3v. There are two magnets that rotate with the lever - one N facing, the other S facing. When the S facing one is very close to the hall, the voltage on the signal wire goes down to 1.2v, and when the N-facing one is against it, the voltage is 3.8v. Between those two positions, the voltage is proportional. The controller reads the voltage and divides it up to give from zero to max speed. Obviously, the spring is needed to hold the S facing magnet against the hall at rest. If the magnet falls out or the stop breaks, there is nothing to pull the signal down, so the bike won't stop unless you have brake cut-offs.
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