Help! My next project

[Nealh]

From memory as it has been over 6 years since when I had my thermal cut outs the display went blank so affected power supply . I remember having no warning or errors, just a sudden loss of power and display shutting down.
Following a cooling down period the display would switch on again and I was able to ride again obviously I has to watch speed on any further inclines soon after as they take a while to cool down really low.

 

[Nealh]

Bullets were the 2nd thing I checked.
When it wouldn't work (crossing the main road), there was nothing. Display was still on showing assist level but no mph.
Can only be the pas can't it? No pas, no assist or throttle. Pas is one piece so, apart from the plug at the controller, there's nothing I can check.
Neal, what maximum current do you have set?

Ouch ! Would have bought one of yours but you didn't want to supply without battery.

I set current as max with any TS model so TS06 either 17a or 20a, TS09 22a or 25a.
Like the TS06 the 09 's come in 22a or 25a flavour.

 

[Nealh]

Thanks Nealh, those are the lines I'm starting to think down.
At the moment operation is erratic. This morning I went to the next village shopping, about a 4 mile round trip.
It let me down badly crossing a main road at an offset cross. Approach to junction is downhill so no assist. Exit is up camber onto main road then up an off ramp. Pulled out onto main road - nothing- no assist, no throttle. Didn't kick in until I was onto the off ramp. Unpredictable and bloody dangerous.

It may be, one has a dodgy /intimitent controller ?
Apart from my one T06S that gave me heat issues I have never had another TS 0x issue in the 10 odd years I have been using them.
I tried to remedy the TS06 at the time with adding a larger heat sink to the main body (didn't work)next step was a pair of 5v PC fans attached to the heat sink to provide cooling via it 's own 4p1s power source ( still was great). So in the end simply ditched the set up for a TS09 and problem was solved.

Once a controller gets so hot like that , I'm fairly sure damage will have occurred somewhere on the PCB besides the mosfets so expect it doesn't take much for it to become flakey.

 

[Nealh]

Brakes switches can cause issues sometimes , I remember my BBS01 being a right pain with two switches so took the front one off.
With KT I have never fitted brake switches because they are not required.

 

[Nealh]

With my tiny G370 front hub motor I have only used it in PAS 2 with my TS09 even towing a 126+ kg load with my Carry Freedom trailer , albeit on fairly flat terrain the TS09 was no bother at very slow speeds.

Have you checked the hub motor for heat whilst the controller gets hot ?

Can you confirm the controller only gets hot on inclines ?

Also for P1 , one would think a P1 of 128 is quite low . I would think 168 - 224 woulkd be more the ideal P1 range.
With 16 motor pole magnets one would need a 8:1 internal motor gearing for P1 128.
A lowly set PI not only will give an incorrect odo reading but also may affect the pick up /syncing correctly of the motor.

328rpm I thought were 9.63 gearing so P1 154ish, I would have a little play around with P1 first.
Problem is is has never been clear cut if the gearing ratio's given are correct or not , all we know is they supply the AKM in various ratio's ranging ing from 9.63 - 13.2 . I seem to remember once seeing a 15.7 ratio quoted.

 

[harrys]

Here's the settings

P1 128
P2 1
P3 1
P4 1
P5 13

C1 07
C2 0
C3 8
C4 3
C5 09
C6 3
C7 0
C8 0
C9 0
C10 n
C11 0
C12 4
C13 0
C14 2

Pas settings 1 80w ish
2 160 ish
3 280 ish
4 380 ish
5 720 ish

I'm using P1 = 150. It's used to calculate speed from the hall sensors and wheel diameter. A lower value will give you a lower speed readout. When coasting, thw speed comes from the speed sensor and wheel diameter. I believe the odometer picks up the speed sensor data when P2 is not zero. Anyway, I don't see this impacting performance, other than the bike is really about 10% faster

Your C5 = 09 reduces the max current by 10%. I often adjust C5 on different bikes that my wife and I ride, to equalize our speeds in assist level 1.

I'm surprised at your 80 watts at 36V. I am going to strap a 36V pack on our Q128 and see I get. I'm seeing 140W on 48V. Should be 100W at least on 36V,

 

[saneagle]

Brakes switches can cause issues sometimes , I remember my BBS01 being a right pain with two switches so took the front one off.
With KT I have never fitted brake switches because they are not required.

Good point,
Benjamin, disconnect the brakes and see if the problem goes away.

 

[Benjahmin]

Good info, thanks Neal.
Motor only got midly warm. I'll ride tomorrow with the top off the controller box to feel what the controller does.
P1 was at 128 as Topbikekit reckon the Q128 328 800w is 8:1. I'll try a bit higher to see what happens.

I'm surprised at your 80 watts at 36V. I am going to strap a 36V pack on our Q128 and see I get. I'm seeing 140W on 48V. Should be 100W at least on 36V,

That would be useful, thanks.


Just disconnected the brake, I'll try tomorrow.

Thanks all.

Of course through all this i can see Mr Woosh sitting there going Mmm-hum !

 

[Nealh]

You have the very very naughty version then.

 

[Nealh]

8.1 is claimed for the 328rpm so P1 130.

One should have gone for one of the 201's.
328's are good for small 16'' wheels or for very flat terrain on bigger wheels but not for climbers.

 

[Benjahmin]

Well, that's the direction my thoughts are going in.
Motor was originally bought for a 26" wheel recumbent. Seemed to work alright but the whole experience was so different I couldn't really tell what was going on. Ditched that project and thought, 'OK I'll use the kit to turn my bike into a legal machine as the authorities seem to be getting clued in'.
Jeez ! Part of me wishes I hadn't bothered.
I'll try again tomorrow but confidence, in this system as is, is low.
Looks like I'm going to be ordering a Q128 36v 201. Plus side is I'm getting really good at wheel building.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Looks like I'm going to be ordering a Q128 36v 201. Plus side is I'm getting really good at wheel building.

Where will you order it from?

 

[guerney]

'OK I'll use the kit to turn my bike into a legal machine as the authorities seem to be getting clued in'.

Looks like I'm going to be ordering a Q128 36v 201

They don't seem clued in. If they seize your bike despite your self-printed label, how would you prove your motor is manufacturer rated 250W to get it back/prevent seizure, when "400W-500W" will be stated on the receipt?

https://bmsbattery.com/motor/382-15949-q128-36v400w-500w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html

 

[Peter.Bridge]

They don't seem clued in. If they seize your bike despite your self-printed label, how would you prove your motor is manufacturer rated 250W to get it back/prevent seizure, when "400W-500W" will be stated on the receipt?

https://bmsbattery.com/motor/382-15949-q128-36v400w-500w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html

Yeah, the only manufacturer 250w rated akm-128 motors I've seen are on Wisper 705 / 905 / maybe others

You do see them occasionally for spares / repairs

 

[guerney]

Yeah, the only manufacturer 250w rated akm-128 motors I've seen are on Wisper 705 / 905 / maybe others

You do see them occasionally for spares / repairs

Does the 905se have one? Only £99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305943571109

"SE" usually means "Sucker's Edition".

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Does the 905se have one? Only £99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305943571109

"SE" usually means "Sucker's Edition".

Oh 905, yes possibly

 

[Nealh]

Well, that's the direction my thoughts are going in.
Motor was originally bought for a 26" wheel recumbent. Seemed to work alright but the whole experience was so different I couldn't really tell what was going on. Ditched that project and thought, 'OK I'll use the kit to turn my bike into a legal machine as the authorities seem to be getting clued in'.
Jeez ! Part of me wishes I hadn't bothered.
I'll try again tomorrow but confidence, in this system as is, is low.
Looks like I'm going to be ordering a Q128 36v 201. Plus side is I'm getting really good at wheel building.

AKM 128HCST cn never be legal as it is 800w rated .

 

[Benjahmin]

And this is the rabbit hole I went down before.
The motor I have looks right. It's flange diameter is around 165mm. This makes it a few mil larger than my bottom gear cog and smaller than the 180mm disc on the other side. Nestled in there it doesn't attract attention. The only markings on it are some sort of serial number.
AKM23032901002
BBA4816B

The only reason I went for the 800w was that I thought it would better take the heat of all the hill climbing it will have to do. I'm not wedded to this motor.
What I need is a high torque rear hub (don't want a mid drive for various reasons) that can get my ageing body up sometimes steep sometimes long hills. 16mph is fine, too much for the rutted back lanes.
Any one got any suggestions?
Otherwise it's the AKM from Topbikekit with this label on it.

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www.topbikekit.com

Complete with authentic spelling mistke !
It's highly unlikely that I will get pulled around here. However I want to take it to other places where it's more possible. i.e. Swansea, Birmingham, Trowbridge and other places mentioned in the seizures thread.
So looking right in combination with a complete lack of hooligan behaviour will hopefully cut it.

 

[saneagle]

AKM 128HCST cn never be legal as it is 800w rated .

It can be legal when AKM stamp 250w on it.

 

[guerney]

Complete with authentic spelling mistke !

Are the Chinese doing this on purpose to dodge accountability? And it's "Sperring" not "Spelling" in the Godzirra films.