Help! My next project
- Thread starter Benjahmin
- Start date
I'm even considering buying some letter and number punches to mark the motor 250W and infill with white paint.
Yes it is a shame that TBK can't etch / mark the motor for the relevant market/country they sell to.
WIth no marking no one can tell the difference as the hubs are pretty light and small for their power .
Went out shopping. Took a sat nav gps with me for speed registration.
Brake switch now disconnected.
P1=128
From start up, so system has just been turned on, mph display is zero until.........well I'm not quite sure what triggers it into action. Could be achieving cutoff speed but couldn't get that to repeat consistantly. This feature is there every time it's turned on.
On the flat, cruising, mph on lcd approx. the same as sat nav
Coasting on descent lcd showing approx 4mph below sat nav
Climbing would show about 1mph above sat nav.
Change P1 reading to 150, 158, 160
Climbing seemed to read around 1mph below sat nav.
Coasting it would read around 5mph below.
On the flat it was reading 4-5 mph below satnav.
Motor still cuts out at displayed 16mph
On these higher settings it did also seem that the motor was quieter and less vibration at lower speeds.
Great if one wants to get somewhere quickly but still have a correct cutoff speed displayed.
How high can I go? Is there a point where it will 'come into phase' as it were? Will it cause damage?
Brake switch now disconnected.
P1=128
From start up, so system has just been turned on, mph display is zero until.........well I'm not quite sure what triggers it into action. Could be achieving cutoff speed but couldn't get that to repeat consistantly. This feature is there every time it's turned on.
On the flat, cruising, mph on lcd approx. the same as sat nav
Coasting on descent lcd showing approx 4mph below sat nav
Climbing would show about 1mph above sat nav.
Change P1 reading to 150, 158, 160
Climbing seemed to read around 1mph below sat nav.
Coasting it would read around 5mph below.
On the flat it was reading 4-5 mph below satnav.
Motor still cuts out at displayed 16mph
On these higher settings it did also seem that the motor was quieter and less vibration at lower speeds.
Great if one wants to get somewhere quickly but still have a correct cutoff speed displayed.
How high can I go? Is there a point where it will 'come into phase' as it were? Will it cause damage?
The higher P1 then does indicate the value is set too high then and 8:1 might well be the correct ratio. Lowering the value to 130 should bring it in line with the GPS reading .
However running at 36v and not the wound for 48v , the hub may be happier with the higher P1 value.
However running at 36v and not the wound for 48v , the hub may be happier with the higher P1 value.
Strange, I'm watching the F1 free practice sessions, seeing them set the car up for qualifying. Honestly they think they've got a complex balancing act, they should try this !
Here's a thing. I'm running 25% lower voltage. So I'm going to try plus and minus 25% of the P1128 setting and see what that does.
Here's a thing. I'm running 25% lower voltage. So I'm going to try plus and minus 25% of the P1128 setting and see what that does.
It is very rare for a motor wound for a particular V to be under volted , we usually like to over volt 24v or 36v for more speed or torque . It could simply be the hub isn't liking being undervolted , can you try a 48v battery or 3s booster for 13s to see if the hub runs better.
I do have a 48v Dillinger battery of unknown age. Guess I could temporarily strap it to the rack.
I'll have to run my 36v battery down to below 48v cutoff first, so that I can reset the controller after testing.
I'll have to run my 36v battery down to below 48v cutoff first, so that I can reset the controller after testing.
you don't need to run anything down. just connect the 48v battery and it should work, but make sure that the 48v one is charged first, otherwise it might think it's a charged up 36v one.
A good way to clear the controller before swapping batteries is to power up with no battery, That discharges the capacitors and it will try to recalibrate on the next battery.
I found the label on my motor. Woo, I have to remove it as it's an 800W AKM, 48V 10.5 gearing. I took it out with a 36V pack. I don't have a 30 mph bike, and only 18mph legs, but my 20A controller in PAS 1 has no problem putting out 100-110W in PAS 1. It ran nice.
I found the label on my motor. Woo, I have to remove it as it's an 800W AKM, 48V 10.5 gearing. I took it out with a 36V pack. I don't have a 30 mph bike, and only 18mph legs, but my 20A controller in PAS 1 has no problem putting out 100-110W in PAS 1. It ran nice.
Finally got time for more messing fettling.
I remembered that the original 12 magnet disc was still fitted to the inside of the granny ring. So I removed it in case it was affecting anything. Doesn't looked like it was.
Trying a selection of P1 settings. 96, 128, 160. 128 gave the nearest mph registration. Settled on 125 which seems to correlate pretty well to the satnav reading.
However it is still giving no speed reading when not pedalling.
However, for the terrain I need it for, this is definitely the wrong motor. I daren't take it on any of my regular more severe rides, which makes it a bit useless.
So I'm going to order a 201rpm Q128.
Looks like internal speed sensing is somehow up the spout. The T09S has a speed connection, presumeably for an external sensor. Would this one do the trick?
Still riding without the brake switch. I really don't like it. Withou it changing down through the gears, as you approach junctions, gives power - which is unerving to say the least. Also riding shared paths (with zombie pedestrians and long lead dog walkers) where one has to be on and off the power whilst still pedalling to keep forward motion, is really iffy. I will be re-instating it.
I remembered that the original 12 magnet disc was still fitted to the inside of the granny ring. So I removed it in case it was affecting anything. Doesn't looked like it was.
Trying a selection of P1 settings. 96, 128, 160. 128 gave the nearest mph registration. Settled on 125 which seems to correlate pretty well to the satnav reading.
However it is still giving no speed reading when not pedalling.
However, for the terrain I need it for, this is definitely the wrong motor. I daren't take it on any of my regular more severe rides, which makes it a bit useless.
So I'm going to order a 201rpm Q128.
Looks like internal speed sensing is somehow up the spout. The T09S has a speed connection, presumeably for an external sensor. Would this one do the trick?
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Still riding without the brake switch. I really don't like it. Withou it changing down through the gears, as you approach junctions, gives power - which is unerving to say the least. Also riding shared paths (with zombie pedestrians and long lead dog walkers) where one has to be on and off the power whilst still pedalling to keep forward motion, is really iffy. I will be re-instating it.
Been out again on what I thought was just going to be a short bimble around. Ended up having to be rescued AGAIN as the system through an 03 halls error.
I'm thinking this is the result of heat damage, just not sure if it's in the motor or the controller. Don't know how to test the controller or the motor.
Either way, I am loosing confidence in this system.
I'm thinking this is the result of heat damage, just not sure if it's in the motor or the controller. Don't know how to test the controller or the motor.
Either way, I am loosing confidence in this system.
More likely, you don't have the motor connector in far enough. Show a photo of it.
First thing I checked, 2nd was the plug at the controller end.
I've taken a photo but I'm no photographer and my dumb phones no camera.
But it's all the way in and I've also checked it for pins being bent or pushed out. Can't see any.
I've taken a photo but I'm no photographer and my dumb phones no camera.
But it's all the way in and I've also checked it for pins being bent or pushed out. Can't see any.
If you tap the white signal lead at the end of the motor cable, and add 5v power/ground, you can power an external speed sensor if your motor sensor burnt out. Ive done this on a G60 bafang and also on motors that had no sensor.
The trouble I had was a lot of electrical noise. It could be due to my choice of sensor or setup. When coasting, the display would jitter like mad above 12 mph. Under power, it was accurate. I'm speaking only to KT controllers. I've seen other posters with the same problem,
The trouble I had was a lot of electrical noise. It could be due to my choice of sensor or setup. When coasting, the display would jitter like mad above 12 mph. Under power, it was accurate. I'm speaking only to KT controllers. I've seen other posters with the same problem,
There is another option to try and that is the phase /hall wire swapping , as we tell folks it is a gimme that colour to colour will work always out of thr box. I have posted many times the 36 combo chart to follow to find the best possible combo.
That's always a possibility, but my Q128 always works colour to colour, and I've never heard of anybody having problems with an AKM motor before.
Thanks guys.
System did work with some glitches that I was trying to get to the bottom of. The 03 error was new.
Meanwhile the weathers a wasting and I'm without a reliable ride. So I've bitten the bullet and ordered an new 201 rpm motor, and 8 magnet pas sensor and a speed sensor. With this I can hopefully get back on the road. Later I can get bench time with the previous motor to see if it can be repaired for a different project.
System did work with some glitches that I was trying to get to the bottom of. The 03 error was new.
Meanwhile the weathers a wasting and I'm without a reliable ride. So I've bitten the bullet and ordered an new 201 rpm motor, and 8 magnet pas sensor and a speed sensor. With this I can hopefully get back on the road. Later I can get bench time with the previous motor to see if it can be repaired for a different project.
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