New Conversion kit launching

gw8izr

Pedelecer
Jan 1, 2020
224
240
1. you will have to replace your chainring with the new chainring because the clutch is built inside it, so you can't reuse the old cranks anyway.
2. how would you fit the chainguard?
Well you’ve edited your response since I posted mine so I’ll back out of the discussion at this point.
 

Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
14,996
12,281
Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
Something about this drive design appeals to my engineering background
how do you compare this part of the design to another kit like yours?

 

Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
14,996
12,281
Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
Well you’ve edited your response since I posted mine so I’ll back out of the discussion at this point.
I know you are very good, I saw the replacement front arms that you made for the rack battery on your bike. Since, I bought some aluminium profile just in case anyone needs to make replacement arms.
 

harrys

Pedelecer
Dec 1, 2016
171
23
69
Chicago, USA
My first conversion was a rear hub motor and uneventful. Second one was a BBS02, memorable because the crank arms were fused to the BB spindle. Took a whole day to remove.

At my age, I've learned some patience. My current conversion(s) involve two wheel builds. Looking at 1/2" in wobble and 3/8" radial variation when I started to true the last one, I kind of wondered if the wheel was going to win. Nah.
 

Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
14,996
12,281
Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
memorable because the crank arms were fused to the BB spindle. Took a whole day to remove.
I know the feeling.
We have often to use a thick plate, two wedges and a big hammer to push the crank out.
 
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Matteo from Bikee Bike

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 18, 2020
21
5
If you install a Bafang BBS kit for example on a bike with triple chainring, you can disconnect and leave the front derailleur on its granny ring setting without having to remove it.
If you want you can leave the derailleur on this one as well in the double chain configuration ( as GNG): you can have a triple chainring and use the derailleur to switch from the bigger to the medium one and keep the smaller chainring for motor-to-crank transmission.

I believe that the most important thing for a retrofit kit is its comfort and performance while riding. Installation just happens once or twice and if someone feels it's not able to do it, then he can handle the bike to a bike shop for doing the least obvious passages ( such as taking down the bottom bracket).
 
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Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
14,996
12,281
Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
Hi Matteo,

that bike is a specialist build, perhaps for the showroom only.

The average kit looks more like this:



that picture was extracted from one of gw8izr's posts.
BTW, that Rocky Mountain has 3 chain tensioners instead of one.
 

Matteo from Bikee Bike

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 18, 2020
21
5
that bike is a specialist build, perhaps for the showroom only.
I have friends which have been using it for one year and it's doing very well.

BTW, that Rocky Mountain has 3 chain tensioners instead of one.
They have one more than our system: the third one at the top. That's probably used to get a desired behaviour of the rear suspension rather than for the proper motor operation.
 
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Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
14,996
12,281
Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
they have chain tensioners on the left and right of the chainring.
the one above the chainring is for the benefit of the motor.
Yours is shared between motor and chainring,
Plus, their top chain tensioner has a retainer to keep the chain away from the ring.
 

Laser Man

Pedelecer
Jul 1, 2018
175
105
Michelmersh SO51
In the old days choosing a kit was complicated as you had to asses power/hill climbing ability, battery life etc. etc.

Much easier now - just count up the chain tensioners and if its got lots then you are onto a winner.
 

Matteo from Bikee Bike

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 18, 2020
21
5
they have chain tensioners on the left and right of the chainring.
the one above the chainring is for the benefit of the motor.
Yours is shared between motor and chainring,
Plus, their top chain tensioner has a retainer to keep the chain away from the ring.
We also have the two chain tensioners. We don't have the one at the top because we never had a problem during our testing. Please consider that chainring and chain are moving in sync, so even if the touch each other after a big jump, nothing happens.
 

Matteo from Bikee Bike

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 18, 2020
21
5
I'm attaching here the mounting plates for the four different mounting options. If you print in 1:1 scale the drawings, you can verify whether they fit on your frames. You can verify the scale by measuring the scale on the printed drawing.

Please let me know if those are easy to use.

Thanks,
Matteo
 

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