New Light runs direct from battery.

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103Alex1

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The ones I got were actually described as wide angle lenses. The light is channeled into a shape very much like a car headlight. Took me about 2 weeks to track them down though. Thinking wide-angle lenses at the moment ... will update if I manage to find anything similar and same on the o-rings.
 

benjy_a

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Jul 25, 2009
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The ones I got were actually described as wide angle lenses. The light is channeled into a shape very much like a car headlight. Took me about 2 weeks to track them down though. Thinking wide-angle lenses at the moment ... will update if I manage to find anything similar and same on the o-rings.

That would be great if they could be focused to eliminate dazzle to oncoming cars. I find that I get flashed by cars on dark lanes even though I dip my Magicshine to the floor.
 

103Alex1

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That would be great if they could be focused to eliminate dazzle to oncoming cars. I find that I get flashed by cars on dark lanes even though I dip my Magicshine to the floor.
If you have them on high power then they can still be an issue even with the lens - my ostensibly 4000Lm one causes annoyance unless I swivel it to the left a bit on the handlebar swivelmount, even when set on lowest brightnes, but the 1200Lm one is fine. If it's for a magicshine you can just use this :

Wide Angle Lens for Magicshine, Lupine and Gemini Bike Lights | eBay
 
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benjy_a

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If you have them on high power then they can still be an issue even with the lens - my ostensibly 4000Lm one causes annoyance unless I swivel it to the left a bit on the handlebar swivelmount, even when set on lowest brightnes, but the 1200Lm one is fine. If it's for a magicshine you can just use this :

Wide Angle Lens for Magicshine, Lupine and Gemini Bike Lights | eBay
Its way too much hassle to switch to low power for every car that passes, three button presses to cycle back through to full power (with winter gloves on); just not going to happen. I tend to try and keep it on low as much as possible but I really value the extra visibility of high with all the potholes!

I've seen those lenses for the Magicshine, I want to hopefully move over to this new light running on main battery so a wide angle lens plus perhaps a dip switch with a resistor; we'll see.
 

103Alex1

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Its way too much hassle to switch to low power for every car that passes, three button presses to cycle back through to full power (with winter gloves on); just not going to happen. I tend to try and keep it on low as much as possible but I really value the extra visibility of high with all the potholes!
Do you have it on a swivelmount ? they just swivel to the left or right enough to direct the beam away and back again when the car's gone. But I completely agree a dimmer switch would be better preferably one of those ones which rolls back and forth on a wheel-like thing. Hitting a switch with Winter gloves on would be no easier.

I want to hopefully move over to this new light running on main battery so a wide angle lens plus perhaps a dip switch with a resistor; we'll see.
I was thinking exactly the same - but it's seeming a lot of modding and wiring for something which at the moment is based on a product that's a fair way from being up to the job of a permanent fixture on the bike.
 
D

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I use the 3 LED one fixed permanently under the stem, which gives a bright spread-out light, and one of the single LED ones, which has a longer more focused beam, clipped to the handlebar. For riding down unlit lanes and cycle tracks, I have both on, but I switch off the 3 LED one when there's cars about. I suppose I could put them the other way round because I use the single LED one the most as it's bright enough on its own.
 

benjy_a

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I use the 3 LED one fixed permanently under the stem, which gives a bright spread-out light, and one of the single LED ones, which has a longer more focused beam, clipped to the handlebar. For riding down unlit lanes and cycle tracks, I have both on, but I switch off the 3 LED one when there's cars about. I suppose I could put them the other way round because I use the single LED one the most as it's bright enough on its own.

This is all well and good on a normal bike but doesn't apply to my Brompton. Due to the fact I have my controller mounted on the handlebars I only just have room for my little magicshine. This big new light will have to go in the position that Brompton mount their dynamo light - over the front wheel.
 

benjy_a

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Jul 25, 2009
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Incidentally can any of the electronics wizards calculate a power rating and resistance value required to use as a dimmer?

Would this just be wired in series with the light to reduce the power?

Thanks


Also I'm wondering why these inventive Chinese haven't addressed these issues. Adding weatherproofing, a remote dimmer switch and a car-like beam pattern just wouldn't be that hard. I'd pay good money for a finished product.
 

Gdread

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Sep 9, 2012
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Incidentally can any of the electronics wizards calculate a power rating and resistance value required to use as a dimmer?

Would this just be wired in series with the light to reduce the power?

Thanks


Also I'm wondering why these inventive Chinese haven't addressed these issues. Adding weatherproofing, a remote dimmer switch and a car-like beam pattern just wouldn't be that hard. I'd pay good money for a finished product.
Here you go:

My 'connect direct to battery light' turned up today.......and it was white one, and not blue thankfully:0)

The light is typical chinese stuff with a poor fixing from the light to the bracket. There is a grub screw thats tightens down on the main body so you can adjust it..sort of. The three leds have their own individual lens and are fixed to a PCB which has heat sink compound to the main body.

Eager to get it connected and wow! it's incredibly bright. My battery is about 52V and the light draws 0.180A at that voltage (nearly 10W). I cannot imagine needing anything brighter, in fact i think it's too bright. I'm going to rig up a 3 position switch for off/low/high because car drivers are almost certainly going to be blinded by this thing and i don't want to attract the wrong sort of attention.
After experimenting i found that 1-2kohm power resistor reduces the intensity to a normal bright led light (1-2W)you would find on any bicycle.
I'll see if i can get some photos of it working tomorrow.
 
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I'm not sure that you can have a dimmer without significant surgery because the LED/s have a driver circuit that controls the brightness.

You can get remote switches for some flashlights, so if you had a way to mount the light, it could be a solution:
flashlight pressure switch | eBay
 

wurly

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Yes, they have a driver to control the LEDs, but you can still reduce the intensity by a series resistor ( i read on ES someone suggested they were not as bright on a low voltage).
I've settled on a 2kohm wirewounds. I think they are rated at 7W each, they get a bit warm. If i'd gone for a 1K, i would have used a higher wattage.

Maplins have 10Watt resistors in 1Kohm, get a couple and try them.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/components/resistors/high-power-wirewound

I like the idea of having all my lights running off the main battery which is why i am doing the same with a red led array and resistors for my rear light.

Red 48 SMD LED Light Panel T10 Festoon Ba9s Dome 12V DC | eBay

'Festoon'....another nice word :0)

As promised, photos of light on full power and reduced.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc224/gearhead188/upload/20130202_181029.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc224/gearhead188/upload/20130202_181021.jpg
 
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benjy_a

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Jul 25, 2009
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@Wurly

Many thanks for this info and the pics. I will definitely do this too and use a 3 way toggle switch.

Can I just ask, have you tried the light yet on the road and if so how is the narrow beam pattern?

Thanks

Ben
 
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103Alex1

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This kinda stuff looks good, I haven't bothered to look for the best place to get it from cos I dont personally need any, lol

FASTCAR Diffuser Material
Have you come across any more like this, Old_Dave ? It's no longer available from them but interesting to investigate further as getting diffuser lenses proving hard for this diameter.

If you don't mind, keep us updated with any weatherproofing mods (where can one buy a slim o-ring of this lens diameter?). Also with what you may decide to use as a diffuser.

Ben
Will do - just getting back to looking at lighting and there is bound to be a decent way of modding if the light's going to be used .... it's the circuitry and amp draw of various options that's baffling me ATM, bit like doing a big jigsaw puzzle !

I really like this system. 2 things worry me about its compatibility with this light and a 12V system :

- Says "Do not connect to any led light with built-in adjusting device" .. so does that mean do not use with any light with built-in Buck Converter as the dimmer function won't work ?

- What sort of amps is running the dimmer going to take out ?

If it's compatible and would allow variable preset dimming, rigged up to provide a hi-low beam like it shows in the description under heading

"Below diagram shows how to bypass the dimmer using a separate on/off switch"

... then you can presumably just use this to control the light via step-down converter. ... Or would you lose loads of power along the way ? Can anyone shed any light on this ? :)
 
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benjy_a

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Ok so I finally got around to wiring this up to my Giant Seek ezee conversion and used it for a night commute last night.

V quick review update is that I actually quite like the tight beam as it doesn't dazzle oncoming traffic at all. I have it pointed about 20-30m ahead and the beam is so narrow it only lights a thin tunnel on my side of the road. I though I'd hate this but it's actually a nice change compared to the Magicshine which gets me flashed by cars all the time.

More use is required before I finally commit to this light one way or another.

I have also wired my rear light through a voltage regulator so everything is running from main battery now.
 

103Alex1

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Had thought of using this as a "high beam" solution to come on in addition to lower powered lighting, mainly because it doesn't have to be switched on via a button and so can be done via handlebar switch. What is it like compared to say a CREE T6 1200lm (apart from likely benefiting from a diffuser) ?
 

benjy_a

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Jul 25, 2009
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Had thought of using this as a "high beam" solution to come on in addition to lower powered lighting, mainly because it doesn't have to be switched on via a button and so can be done via handlebar switch. What is it like compared to say a CREE T6 1200lm (apart from likely benefiting from a diffuser) ?
The good thing about this light without a diffuser is that you don't need to dim it. The beam is tight enough to not dazzle and can be left on constantly.

Compared to my T6 Magicshine it produces a much brighter hotspot on the road but doesn't light up the surroundings much. I'm still undecided as to whether I prefer this solution, it's certainly nice to not have to keep moving the light for every car that I pass but it will take some getting used to not having a huge wall of light in front of me.

When I get the chance I will try and take some comparison photos so people can see what I mean.
 

Scimitar

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This came up on ES today. Not asbright as the three T6 XM-L one, but should still be pretty good. Main advantage is that it runs directly from main battery voltage: 24v, 36v, 44v, 48v. About £15 including postage.
12V 5W LED CREE Home Garden Waterproof Day Work Spot Decoration Light Outdoor | eBay

A red one pointing backwards might make a good fog-light!
I ended up being persuaded by one of these - no matter if it's not as waterproof as claimed, I can fix that. I was mostly persuaded by the funky housing and the clamp. Also the possibility of shoehorning an MR16 into that - I expect more powerful MR16s will come out sooner or later and if the supplied unit breaks it will be easy to repair.