Q100H 800W 25mph

[Deleted member 4366]

No. You're pointing the wrong way. You have to tap the screw-head round anticlockwise. That means keep the end of the screwdriver on the screw, but bring the handle round to the bottom of the photo.

 

[cwah]

Like this?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Not that way. That's clockwise!

You need to hit the head of the screw not the washer too. Make sure the screw is screwed right down or else it'll bend when you hit it.

 

[tongxinpete]

Could not get the curve link to open but is it the one shown for the Q100H on the bms batts site, if so it only maxes out @ about 20 Nm, as do many of these little motors, just cannot see the 30% improvement. Xlyte have something similar with a max of 29Nm - guess that must be peak.
Heinzmann give excellent info with torque ratings for 0.5hr, 5 mins & 2 mins
Pity no one could afford them. Anyone got firm stats on the Bafang BPM code 15 or 16? think this is the way I might head

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The code 15 and 16 are very slow. Don't forget that peak power and efficiency happen below 75% of the max RPM. Code 16 is 192 RPM, so power will die off from 11 mph to max out at about 14 mph.

 

[tongxinpete]

Re the Q100H vs Q100, it is in the gearing as the graph shows an unloaded (wheel off ground) speed of 216 rpm for the 100H
From my real word measurements the straight Q100 is 249 rpm unloaded.
BUT I built mine into a 24'' rear rim, so my std Q100 is giving me the torque of the 100H would have in a 26'' Adequate but not earth shattering.I was too busy looking a torque to notice the rpm differences, bit less tired tonight (my excuse)

Theoretically my set up will give about 17.3mph but does nothing determinable above 15.5mph so I take your point re the Bafang BPM.
My guess I should be looking for this 17.3 unloaded max translated into a 26'' rim to get a good all round single speed compromise.
What Bafang code are bms presently shipping & calling a 201 rpm? It was once a code 15 (205rpm unloaded) but now faster I think

My senior citizen uncle would do fine on a 100H / 26'' (thus avoiding the hassle of having to make a brake mount) - & with the added advantage that a low cost frog pack could power it (he is a slighter build & 2 to 3 stones lighter)
Should say all of above is with a 36v nominal batt set up

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Somebody just got a code 12, so best to check with them first, but you have to explain to them the markings on the motor otherwise they won't understand what you mean.

I've heard of them sending Code 15 and 16 for 49v 201 rpm, but I think most people get code 13 for 36v.

 

[cwah]

Ok, I almost feel confident now it's the right way:

I just need to hammer it anti clockwise and it should open like magic.

Then I should be able to solder the core and it should be fixed!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Yes, but don't forget to put the end of the screwdriver on the head of the screw,not the washer. Also the pecil line across the join to dee what's happening.

 

[cwah]

I've been hammering for half an hour anti-clockwise:

The bolt is completely bent now and I have load of marks on the table...

Even the screwdriver head broke:

And no sign of change from the cover mark??

I must have done something wrong or maybe the motor doesn't open like this...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need a bigger hammer. What size did you use?

 

[cwah]

I have a small hammer. It's really difficult to open, I'm not sure even if I buy a bigger hammer it will open as I think I'm much less strong than you.

Any other way??

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need a big hammer - about 16 oz - or a lump-hammer. A small one doesn't have enough momentum. Put a new screw in and screw it down tight to stop it from bending.

 

[cwah]

Something like this?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/RUBBER-MALLET-HAMMER-STEEL-SHAFT/dp/B004C8X3GE/ref=pd_cp_auto_0

 

[eHomer]

I guess if the cover is really tight then the leverage is not enough because the screw is so close to the centre pivot.

I'm thinking ahead to when I might need to remove the cover from one of my Q100 motors.

Looking at CWAH's difficulties I think I'd be tempted to make a simple spanner.

A steel bar about 5mm thick with a hemisphere cut out to fit round the hub centre, and two holes to fix it to the plate with two of the existing motor screws (5mm longer).

I think a sharp tap with the club hammer would then do the trick with even a very stubborn thread.

 

[Nealh]

Rubber head mallet no good as it will absorb most of the force,a carpenters claw hammer or club/ lump hammer as in above pic.
Other wise e-homer's idea is great much more leverage.

 

[cwah]

Yes will create a spanner to open the motor.

I now really need help as the controller seems to be down. It was working while it was raining and suddenly stopped. It would sometime start again... but then stop for long time.

When I went back home I decided to open it and use a dryer to remove all the water:

But when I opened it it smelt burnt plastic... and I was wondering if the controller actually failed? I have the error code 3 which is a problem with the hall sensor?

I'm really disappointed because it's the expensive model with controller inside the battery and it's already down

 

[cwah]

I guess if the cover is really tight then the leverage is not enough because the screw is so close to the centre pivot.

I'm thinking ahead to when I might need to remove the cover from one of my Q100 motors.

Looking at CWAH's difficulties I think I'd be tempted to make a simple spanner.

A steel bar about 5mm thick with a hemisphere cut out to fit round the hub centre, and two holes to fix it to the plate with two of the existing motor screws (5mm longer).

I think a sharp tap with the club hammer would then do the trick with even a very stubborn thread.
View attachment 9810

How can I create this spanner without special tool?

 

[eHomer]

How can I create this spanner without special tool?

It wouldn't need any sophisticated machining, just the two screw holes would need to be fairly accurately measured and spaced, but the hemisphere cutout to clear the bulge of the freewheel thread could be quite crudely cut out.

Cut a template out of cardboard to get the accurate shape then draw it on the metal bar/plate. The hemisphere could be cut out by drilling a series of small holes along the curve and then filling the rough edges off.

I'd said 5mm steel, but it would probably work with any old piece of alloy too, as long as it's thick enough to resist bending.

 

[cwah]

It wouldn't need any sophisticated machining, just the two screw holes would need to be fairly accurately measured and spaced, but the hemisphere cutout to clear the bulge of the freewheel thread could be quite crudely cut out.

Cut a template out of cardboard to get the accurate shape then draw it on the metal bar/plate. The hemisphere could be cut out by drilling a series of small holes along the curve and then filling the rough edges off.

I'd said 5mm steel, but it would probably work with any old piece of alloy too, as long as it's thick enough to resist bending.

I don't know if it's a good idea.. I just received this from my council

Apparently I'm making too much noise and making so many holes would make it worse