Q100H 800W 25mph

[cwah]

Hello all,

Remembered my test to put a bike outside overnight and see if anything happens?

After couple of months as nothing happened I decided to put a motor on it:

I used a Q100H 260rpm with 48V sine wave controller. It's quite neat and nice. Lightweight.

And biggest surprise of all surprise. Amazingly fast: 25mph top speed. Very good torque.

I'm amazed!! That's all I need. 25mph. Good torque. Lightweight. and CHEAP!

It's beyond expectation!!


However, as I burned down my previous BPM at 2500W peak after 3 months. The same thing may happen to the Q100H after few months too...

So wait and see... what would happen first? people will steal the bike first, or motor breakdown first? lol

 

[cwah]

This is the battery + sine wave controller I purchased:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/battery-pack/681-bottle-ebike-battery.html

I'm testing it tomorrow to see if I can do my daily 12 miles to work!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's excellent, Cwah. If you get any problem with the motor, it's very quick and easy to swap the core from a spare one, so you can be back on the road in no time.

Another thing: Don't forget to cover the battery connections when you leave it out in the rain, and, as you use it in all weathers, it might be a good ides to make a cover that goes over the whole battery for when it's wet.

 

[cwah]

Actually I already have one of my motor q100h 201rpm who has a failed hall.

How do I open it? And where can I find new core?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

To open it, you take one of the screws out of the side. Insert a normal 5mm cap screw a bit longer than the one you took out, and put a washer under the head. Screw it in fairly tight. You can now tap it round anti-clockwise with a large hammer and screwdriver. The washer stops the screwdriver from jagging your nice side-plate. You should draw a pencil line across the join so that you can see how much it's moved because you might think that nothing is happening. When it's moved about an inch, you can unscrew the side-plate by hand.

Fixing the hall sensor will be tricky because they stand up on their three legs like a tripod. I think they use a jig to get the sensor in the correct position. When you put your new one in, you have to get it back in exactly the same position.

If you're lucky, you might have a bad joint or wire rather than the actual sensor.

Here's a photo of the motor dismantled so that you can see what's inside. The core is the main motor part that can be swapped from one hub to another (not the CST version). The photo's actually a Q128, which is identical, but larger:

 

[cwah]

Thanks D8veh. I'll do that on the weekend.

Is there any way the Xiondga motor get the same performance? Because this Q100H is quitie good but you prefer the other one.

But when I tried your xiondga I didn't quite have the same speed as I do with this little Q100H

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I can see that setup being good for you, but it's different when you weigh 100kg. The Xiongda is the only 250w motor that can get me up the steep hills where I ride.

I have a 2WD bike with 2 Q100Hs in, but I only tried it at 15A each and 36V, which is nothing special. Schwibsi build me a nice 48V 15Ah batery for Allen-UK's bike that I'm building for him. I might order another one from him for my bike and then increase the power

 

[cwah]

Yeah please keep me informed. I'm really keen on having a nice xiondga with decent speed.

For now the Q100H is the best lightweight motor...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The Xiongda is only necessary if you're heavy, have steep hills or weak legs. I don't think any of those apply to you Cwah, so I think you can cross it off your list. When it's in high-speed mode, it uses a clutch on a much smaller diameter. I think if you ran one at too high power, that clutch might give problems.

 

[TwoBikes]

The Xiongda sounds just right for me! Do you know where I can buy one? Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've got one left that I was keeping as a spare. It's a bare motor plus controller, throttle, lcd and pedal sensor. You need to build it into a wheel, although I might be able to do that for you if you're stuck. Alternatively you can buy one direct from Xiongda, which will probably be a bit cheaper because you only pay for one postage, but it'll be a bare motor.

Send me a PM (conversation) if you want it.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Cwah, Just a thought. Is there a speed sensor in the motor? Does the LCD still show speed when you free-wheel? Did you use an external wheel speed sensor with a magnet on the spokes?

 

[cwah]

the lcd show speed but only when the throttle is activated. that's a bit annoying because it's not 'on' half of the time :/

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You can wire a speed sensor directly to the controller. If you use a two wire sensor (reed switch type), you connect one wire to the white one in the controller and the other to any 5v position. A three wire one (hall type) is the same, but you connect the the ground wire to any ground point and the other two wires have to be connected the correct way round - 5v to 5v and signal to white. The white wire is the ninth wire that comes from the motor connector.

 

[tongxinpete]

I would really value some real world figs for the 201 rpm 36v Q100H actually used @ 36v nominal. My best guess is that it runs slower as the gear ratio = 12:1 rather than the 8:1 in the std Q100. Both motors are said to be 350w.
I really would like to find the 100H peak torque & torque @ 5A. My elderly uncle tried my bikes & wants to build one, his requirement is for hill climbing rather than speed. Have been away in Germany / Netherlands where the ebike thing seems much more common than here, saw some big motors on forest trail bikes (Heinzmann Direct or possibly BPM) so the 250w thing is not always obeyed over there. Saw also the post bike with twin batts & small wheels

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It's all here, but the fun begins with voltage and current outside that chart:

file:///C:/Users/Windows7/Downloads/Q100H_Curve%20(2).pdf

 

[cwah]

You can wire a speed sensor directly to the controller. If you use a two wire sensor (reed switch type), you connect one wire to the white one in the controller and the other to any 5v position. A three wire one (hall type) is the same, but you connect the the ground wire to any ground point and the other two wires have to be connected the correct way round - 5v to 5v and signal to white. The white wire is the ninth wire that comes from the motor connector.

Thanks D8ve, is it the same with brake cables?

I'm wanting to connect my external brake sensor (2 wires) to the controller brake wires (3 wires) to have regen:
https://www.bmsbattery.com/attachment.php?id_attachment=69

Do you know how to do that? I'm not sure how EASB work btw and it looks like regen has been set to low and I don't know how to update that

 

[cwah]

To open it, you take one of the screws out of the side. Insert a normal 5mm cap screw a bit longer than the one you took out, and put a washer under the head. Screw it in fairly tight. You can now tap it round anti-clockwise with a large hammer and screwdriver. The washer stops the screwdriver from jagging your nice side-plate. You should draw a pencil line across the join so that you can see how much it's moved because you might think that nothing is happening. When it's moved about an inch, you can unscrew the side-plate by hand.

Fixing the hall sensor will be tricky because they stand up on their three legs like a tripod. I think they use a jig to get the sensor in the correct position. When you put your new one in, you have to get it back in exactly the same position.

If you're lucky, you might have a bad joint or wire rather than the actual sensor.

Here's a photo of the motor dismantled so that you can see what's inside. The core is the main motor part that can be swapped from one hub to another (not the CST version). The photo's actually a Q128, which is identical, but larger:

Just to check if I have it all right:

Shall I hammer on the motor like this?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

EABS won't work on a geared motor with a clutch.

That method of undoing might work with a new motor, but you might find that the bolts bend.

My method is to use one scre, which has to be short - just a bit longer than the original countersunk ones.

Put a washer on it first, then screw it right in so that the head pushes the washer against the motor. Put your screwdriver end on the bolt head and rest it on the washer, then whack the other end with a hammer.

 

[cwah]

EABS won't work on a geared motor with a clutch.

That method of undoing might work with a new motor, but you might find that the bolts bend.

My method is to use one scre, which has to be short - just a bit longer than the original countersunk ones.

Put a washer on it first, then screw it right in so that the head pushes the washer against the motor. Put your screwdriver end on the bolt head and rest it on the washer, then whack the other end with a hammer.

Yes, I was thinking to use EABS on my Dahon jetstream which has a DD motor. The current regen is on the weakest and it's really not powerful. I was wondering if I can have a proper regen function on it.

Here's the second tentative:

Can I hammer like this to open the motor?