Remove 15mph speed limiter

[Deleted member 4366]

I did give up trying to "tune" the stock controller. Ended up buying a new controller and better displayunit. Have replaced everything but cant get the pas to work yet. The thumbthrottle works, and a new pas sensor is on its way. Hopefully that will complete the mods. For those curious, the motor drives weaker and weaker up to 32ish km/h, which is more or less the noload speed. On straights with minor to none human input, the travelspeed is in the high 20s Overall a very nice mod to get rid of the abrupt powercut of the stock controller. My partner is pleased with the change.

Some pedal sensors only work on one side of the bike and in one direction. There's 4 combinations of direction of rotation and orientation of the magnet disc. You should try all 4 combinations to see if any work, then you can plan how to fit it to work in that combination.

 

[Wheazel]

Some pedal sensors only work on one side of the bike and in one direction. There's 4 combinations of direction of rotation and orientation of the magnet disc. You should try all 4 combinations to see if any work, then you can plan how to fit it to work in that combination.

But how likely is this when the pedal sensor has been mounted on the bike since factory and worked up until I changed the controller? Do you mean that the sensors send different signals? I was under the impression that as long as the sensor is setup correct to send its pulse, it should work.

I went out and looked at the sensor installation, and the magnetdisc is mounted with the rotational arrows as intended. The sensor itself looks like a miniature proximity sensor used for indication of rotation in the industry. Right side mounted.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've had one before where the same pedal sensor needed to turn in opposite directions to work two different controllers. The bike was a Cyclamatic that uses a Li Shui controller. I changed it to a KU65, which I think is from Kunteng. The pedal sensor only worked backwards until I flipped the magnet disc.

The arrows don't mean anything because it depends which side you fit the sensor. when you change sides, you have to flip the magnet disc, so the arrows will point in the opposite direction.

 

[Wheazel]

I've had one before where the same pedal sensor needed to turn in opposite directions to work two different controllers. The bike was a Cyclamatic that uses a Li Shui controller. I changed it to a KU65, which I think is from Kunteng. The pedal sensor only worked backwards until I flipped the magnet disc.

The arrows don't mean anything because it depends which side you fit the sensor. when you change sides, you have to flip the magnet disc, so the arrows will point in the opposite direction.

Very intresting! this means I can flip the magnet disc and it might work with some luck. That would be golden if it was the case.

 

[Wheazel]

Just wanted to write that flipping the magnetic disc fixed the problem! Huge thanks d8veh!

 

[Kaare]

Dear all

I have bought a new Benelli e-bike with a 15mph speed limit and I have spend a lot of time to figure out how to modify so I could go 20mph instead.

I have even tried to open the controller to see if there where some white wires and so, but no luck.

I have taken some pictures and hope someone in here can help me.

Thx in advance

 

[Nealh]

Not much use looking inside unless you want to tweak the amps, any speed restriction will be with the LCD settings if allowed.

 

[Kaare]

Not much use looking inside unless you want to tweak the amps, any speed restriction will be with the LCD settings if allowed.

Hi,

Thx for your answer.

Not sure I understand your reply, do you mean its the lcd box that show the speed that also control the speed?

 

[Nealh]

Hi,

Thx for your answer.

Not sure I understand your reply, do you mean its the lcd box that show the speed that also control the speed?

Yes, with some LCD's you can configure some settings via the LCD. Pressing the right buttons/pads that operate the LCD will let you set certain parameters/settings, wheel size, assist levels,time, speed, amps, etc etc .
Not all LCD's will allow you to adjust the speed but some will.
The bikes instruction manual may tell you which buttons/pads to use otherwise you will have to find the correct ones, usally long pressing for about 10 seconds works. It may be a single button/pad or a combination of two.

 

[Alexander Dyrby]

I am in the same boat as you all.
I have the same controller - but i do have an LCD that shows the speed and assist-level.
The display is called C4B
I stumbled apon a topic where it was possible to program the controller with an ST-link. - http://pedelec-ebike-forum.de/Thread-Display-C4-C6?page=4

But i have been unable to get the computer to connect to the controller.
This is mostly due to the fact that i have been unable to connect the ST-link to the correct pinout on the controller.
(i bought the st-link that was reccomended in the topic for 8 eur)

But it seems easy ( when it is connected)

As you can see the diffrence from my controller and the other in this topic, is that the center connector-block is unused. But i think i would connect the program-pinout to that free Space, in that way it should be possible to turn on the controller with the display and program it.
.... Now the question is what pin i should use.

 

[Kaare]

dear all

Thx for your posts.

I found a solution - I just changed the wheel size from 28 to 22 in the LCD setup and now the speed is 33 km/h - very easy and for free

 

[Kaare]

Yes, with some LCD's you can configure some settings via the LCD. Pressing the right buttons/pads that operate the LCD will let you set certain parameters/settings, wheel size, assist levels,time, speed, amps, etc etc .
Not all LCD's will allow you to adjust the speed but some will.
The bikes instruction manual may tell you which buttons/pads to use otherwise you will have to find the correct ones, usally long pressing for about 10 seconds works. It may be a single button/pad or a combination of two.

Thx - took me some time to figure it out but it worked

 

[bernek]

Hello and sorry for hijacking this thread !

I just received a ZTECH ZT-09 bike from a a good friend. The bike was used for maybe 2-3 months and the condition seems to be quite good !

I think its a 350W or 500W model not sure where to check and all the papers that came with the bike say 350-500W - so I get to pick the power ?

After my first ride I went straight for the ECU (speed controller or how it's called) and disconected the famous white wire that acts like a jumper on a PCB. (it even had a small connector to make it easy peasy as possible). The top speed is 30 km/h now from 25 km/h. But downhill it wont go over 30-35 km/h so I still think there are some other restrctions !

Can it also have a jumper or I should reconnect the white wire again ? (it works only as a reset to defaults - meaning no limited speed but the wire has to be reconnected)

Please advice ! Thank you very much !

L.E. I will take some pictures of the controller tomorrow and even open it up if needed ! I'm willing to sacrifice it for science !

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Are there any markings on the motor?

Edit: Forget that. I didn't realise it was a scooter. You're more likely to find an answer on an electric scooter forum.

Charge the battery, then lift the motor wheel off the ground and spin it up to maximum. Note the maximum speed. Ride your scooter until the battery is low, then repeat that test. If the speed in the second test is more than 10% lower than the first, you're limited by the motor, in which case there's very little you can do. If they're exactly the same, you're limited by the controller, which can be sorted by using a different one.

 

[bernek]

Are there any markings on the motor?

Edit: Forget that. I didn't realise it was a scooter. You're more likely to find an answer on an electric scooter forum.

Charge the battery, then lift the motor wheel off the ground and spin it up to maximum. Note the maximum speed. Ride your scooter until the battery is low, then repeat that test. If the speed in the second test is more than 10% lower than the first, you're limited by the motor, in which case there's very little you can do. If they're exactly the same, you're limited by the controller, which can be sorted by using a different one.

I will have to test but I will need a strobe light or something for measuring the rpm at the wheel. The speedometer is "made" of led lights and I can't see a 10% maybe even 20% difference.

Here is a picture of the controller itself:

I've tested further and the bike goes around 33-34 km/h (gps speed on a phone). Not sure how exact is that measurement either ... it is -15 degrees Celsius outside and its not the ideal time to test

On the motor I don't see any markings maybe if I remove it from the bike and disassemble.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

No need to take the motor off. It won't have the markings I was looking for.

Electric motors have a maximum speed, which depends on voltage. Your voltage is fixed at 48v. I would guess that 32 km/h would be about the maximum when unrestricted. If you want more, you'd have to go up to 60V, which means a new battery and controller.

 

[bernek]

No need to take the motor off. It won't have the markings I was looking for.

Electric motors have a maximum speed, which depends on voltage. Your voltage is fixed at 48v. I would guess that 32 km/h would be about the maximum when unrestricted. If you want more, you'd have to go up to 60V, which means a new battery and controller.

An additional 12V 20A battery ? I think it can be wired in series with the rest ... have to charge it separately or buy a 60v charger also.

I will do that no problem but with the controller I have no clue what to buy ... I know it has to be 60V and maybe 30A but what "brand" should I go for ?

Will the wiring of the new one be a pain ? I guess they ship with no wiring diagram ?

Thanks !

P.S. I could aslo get a bigger rear wheel assembly ? or its not a good idea and I will lose too much acceleration. I just need around 40 km/h to ride "safer" in traffic. At 25 km/h it was a pain at 32/33 what I'm getting now is a bit better.

The bike also has or it suppose to have assist when I pedal but I feel like the pedals are throttle input and there is no resistance at all even when climbing a hill !

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You'll get arrested if you're seen going the same speed as traffic without a number plate. I wouldn't attempt to go faster than 32 km/hr

 

[bernek]

You'll get arrested if you're seen going the same speed as traffic without a number plate. I wouldn't attempt to go faster than 32 km/hr

Ah well I guess I'm the search for speed because I also drive a KTM 125cc...

But your point is valid ! I'll better look at maintenance of the ebike and maybe get a fresh set of batteries.

Aging can be checked the same way of regular lead acid battery ? or I should just buy a fresh pack its around 150 USD here.

The frame is fragile compared to the KTM and I'm honestly a bit afraid when going over bumps not to break the bike in two pieces.

I've noticed tyre pressure affects the top speed by quite a big margin on these electric bikes. I was used to running lower pressure in tires (for grip) but here is a no-no.

I don't even know the torque for tightening the rear axle nuts ) I'm afraid to break it ...

Regarding my question with pedal assist helping me way too much is there anything that I can do ?

Do these bikes (mine specifically) have a regenerative engine breaking ? or that comes only with higher end models. (not this kind).

 

[azertytreza]

i hacked with a arduino instead of the PAS sensor
https://pastebin.com/PejMPpb4

red = 5v = arduino 5v
black = gnd = arduino gnd
yellow is signal = arduino pinD13

how to hack ?
send a 25% dutycycle to the controller
if the PAS is backwards ( the PAS sends 75% DC instead of 25% dutycycle)