Switched from SWXB to Q100H

Deere John

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Cool. You have 201 rpm version?

I also run sine wave. S06S controller.

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Deere John

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Yes, 201 rpm, which runs at 260 rpm:confused: with a 6 FET KT controller, so same as yours.
very strange, how fast does it go if you pedal without force on flat and no headwind?

What about the connector, it is a round one on motor and bigger square one on controller? Some special cable there would be needed for me.
 

wheeliepete

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I would say around 18 mph on the flat. Yes, the motor connector is the 9 pin round one and controller end is square 6 pin with the 3 bullet phase wires.
 

Deere John

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I would say around 18 mph on the flat. Yes, the motor connector is the 9 pin round one and controller end is square 6 pin with the 3 bullet phase wires.
ok, very odd.

Aha, yes, but was that long cable with a mating connector to motor included in Q100H delivery?
 

Deere John

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Yes, motor comes with the cable.
My reply disappeared, strange. Well. Ok. Thanks Pete!

Got answer from BMS Battery also:

"And the motor have included a cable could connect the S06S controller"

I will put an order soon.

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Deere John

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Got it today! Very nice!

Q100H, 36V, 350W, 260rpm

It is 100mm wide, 108,5mm spoke flange. Weighs 2,1 kg.

Problem is that my old motor (unknown brand) has spoke flange of about 124mm :( so I need new spokes. That was unfortunate.
/edit: now when I calculate it seems they might fit, flange distance is shorter and the spokes are actually a tad long so it might work!

Cable is included as told, not pinned in the connector so you just have to pin it yourself, no one to blame if the connection is faulty then :)

P1050844.jpg
 
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Deere John

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I used the Q100H 260rpm in this build and would recommend it, it's quiet and powerful for it's size.

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/ebike-build-from-scratch.29930/
very nice build! So yours is doing 20mph unrestricted. That's perfect. I also built a bike from scratch, I thought I build the best all-conditions e-bike :) built on TN719 rims, got very nice:
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/custom-cube-kathmandu-build.20959

Will change motor tomorrow perhaps. Can't wait to try it!
 

awol

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very nice build! So yours is doing 20mph unrestricted. That's perfect. I also built a bike from scratch, I thought I build the best all-conditions e-bike :) built on TN719 rims, got very nice:
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/custom-cube-kathmandu-build.20959

Will change motor tomorrow perhaps. Can't wait to try it!
Nice bike, if your building your own wheel I recommend this book, I thought I knew what I was doing until I got this recently.
https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php
 
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Deere John

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Nice bike, if your building your own wheel I recommend this book, I thought I knew what I was doing until I got this recently.
https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php
Ok, cool. Thanks, but I rely on Sheldons guide. Have built several wheels using his guide but still can't remember how to start so I always go back to it everytime there is a new build going on. One improvement area though is the spoke tension but it use to work itself out after some time :)

Holy crap. Today I got a bill from the shipping company, customs! A $85 motor suddenly became a +$54+$46, ie, a $185 motor!!! Well, what to do, a pity that only BMS sells these, they are very expensive to do with for europeans.
 

Deere John

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Finished with the wheel! Was no problem building it, had to replace two nipples. But the screws for brake disc was total crap in quality, I will not be able to reuse them. But hopefully the brake disc will never need to be removed :)
So extremely nice with a connector there also. Have never had that. Ordered spike tyres just for that sake, so easy to remove wheel now :)

P1050878.jpg

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So... now when I tested it, I had some problems getting up the speed. Had to max out the speed limit setting (72 km/h) to be able to unleash the full potential. But then I read that P1 parameter setting should be set on 202 (mine was at 87 for the old motor). Now things works better. But I still get about 6 km/h to much speed on the display compared to GPS. The speed limit setting works as normal though, it holds a speed of about 2 km/h below the speed limit setting.

...Well, to put numbers on it. If I set the speed limit to 32 km/h, the GPS says 30 km/h, and the display says 36 km/h. Don't know how to tackle this?

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Did some measurements to find out the unloaded motor RPM:


Power supply at 36V:

P1050882.jpg

And a tachometer reading says ~290 rpm (!! should be 260, right?!).

P1050886_cr.jpg

Display says ~46 km/h. But as above written, it displays wrong number. If it is the same logic it should be ~40 km/h. And that seems correct after calculating with measured rpm, 290.

P1050884.jpg


If I use this calculator, 722mm and 290rpm, I get 39.5km/h:
https://www.easycalculation.com/unit-conversion/rpm-conversion.php

So it all seems to match. I have done more measurements also, before the wheel was built but with wrong P1 setting I also got 290rpm. And with the battery instead of PSU I get the same. That gets a KV-value of 290/36 = 8,06!

Isn't that strange. A 260rpm motor is in fact a 290rpm motor!? That makes +4 km/h bike speed. Should the wind in different specimen really differ this much?
 
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Deere John

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Ok, I read some interesting info about speed alignment:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=97237

Quoted summary of that long post:

DuncanDK said:
Summing up
To get the speed of your system aligned correctly you should do the following:

- First, pick whatever wheel size that lets your display show your actual speed correct. Use a GPS-tracker to check when the display matches you actual speed.

- Then, adjust you max speed setting (the speed at which the system should taper off power) to 25 km/h before continuing with adjusting the parameter P1. While performing this speed alignment, the taper off setting needs to be way lower than the actual max speed of the system. Otherwise you can’t be certain, that you get it right.

- Now, hop on your bike and go for a ride. Use a GPS-tracker to check if the motor tapers off correctly at 25 km/h. Most likely, it doesn’t. If the motor tapers off at 23 km/h, then increase the parameter P1 setting a bit. If the motor tapers off at 28 km/h, then lower the parameter P1 setting a bit. Small adjustments have significant effect. I suggest to start out by changing the parameter by 10. If that takes you from e.g. 23 km/h to 26 km/h, then go down 3 and recheck. Small adjustments are easier to work with.
 

Deere John

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Done!

It was easy. You just have to forget what you previously learned and start all-over again
  1. Set max speed to 25km/h so you know you can get to a point where controller regulates down and every limiting parameter works as they should.
  2. Adjust wheel size so it matches GPS, forget numbers, it uses some china-algorithm with wrong numeric system or something. Just take whatever value that makes it match GPS speed. As good as it gets. I had to pick “24 Inch” wheels for my 700C wheels (with 722mm diameter).
  3. Adjust P1 parameter so that controller regulates speed to your max speed setting. Lower number, lower speed. I had to go from recommended 202 to 182 to get it right!

Now all three speeds are almost identical. If I have max speed set on 25 km/h. Display reads ~24.5 km/h and GPS displays ~24.5 km/h, just perfect I would say.

Also tried max out motor with max speed set to 50 km/h, then it maxes out at about 34 km/h on flat, no wind, race position that is actually about what it should be! (I wonder if above measurement on bench would give different RPM now!? Will have to try that later, something is fishy here).

IMG_20181130_121521_2.jpg

Motor feels great! More torque than my previously bigger motor (but faster wind on that one) Looking forward to try it for real now!
 

wheeliepete

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Feb 28, 2016
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Nice one, looks great.:)Strange that your no load speed is 290 rpm, maybe they are all like that or BMS quote loaded speed, which would be a bit odd. Your 34 kph top speed is nearer to 260 rpm.
 
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awol

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Sep 4, 2013
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The motor is 260rpm@36v, maybe your battery was at about 40v which would make it spin about 11% faster@290rpm
 

Deere John

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The motor is 260rpm@36v, maybe your battery was at about 40v which would make it spin about 11% faster@290rpm
No it was about 37V. But I used PSU on the measurement. 36V. Just tested afterwards with battery also.

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Deere John

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Did a long testride with mostly flat but some really hilly areas also.

Well, it is like a new bike!

The motor is very quiet! On cruising speed with not much effort you can barely hear it. When you stress it you hear it though but since it is so strong it needs some mean hills to come to that. It is strong! It accelerates really great and fair hills barely noticeable, it just pulls!

It is also much more efficient on my bike. It is strong without pulling to much amps. My previous motor was a battery-killer! It might have been stronger but I used it in wrong efficiency area. It managed to make the BMS cut off often when running low on battery. This motor didn't make BMS cut off when I did the "usual testride".

Battery time is a little increased also considering above.

Have a simulation from CA bikes where someone said the "Outrider Std" is similar in performance curves.

Q100H_simulation.png

Great! I should have changed motor earlier, I'm on the third battery now and it begins to get really bad. Will buy a new fourth battery after winter and see if that lasts longer, should do.

Speaking of winter. Anyone had any bad experience riding this motor during winter and all that shitty weather it means (mostly thinking about minus degrees making things freeze and thaw up when you get inside).
 

awol

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Sep 4, 2013
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Well, it is like a new bike!

The motor is very quiet! On cruising speed with not much effort you can barely hear it. When you stress it you hear it though but since it is so strong it needs some mean hills to come to that. It is strong! It accelerates really great and fair hills barely noticeable, it just pulls!.
What amps controller you running it with?