Tingling hands

[Old Fart At Play]

Hiya...

After riding a steel-framed drop-handlebars tourer for many years, I've just bought a Trek Allant+ 8 ebike, which is basically an eMTB with no suspension and smooth tyres. I love it (apart from the noise - separate thread). But, since riding that, I am getting tingling hands every time I ride.

I would imagine that this is connected with having a much more upright riding position than I am used to. But, I would have thought that tingling hands (all fingers) was to do with pressure on the hands, and I would have thought there was more pressure on my hands when riding on drops.

I'm happy with the size of the bike, it feels comfortable. Not sure what to try. I could get some spacers and raise the handlebars a bit, in case it is pressure on hands. Or I could switch from straight bars to North Road bars, assuming the cables will allow it. I'm happy with saddle height. Could it be vibration from the motor (Bosch performance line CX) that causes the tingling?

Any ideas or suggestions anyone? Has anyone had a similar experience after switching to straight bars from drops?

Cheers, John

 

[Scott5297]

I wonder if some ergonomic grips might help? The nerves in your wrists might be getting compressed.

have a look at Ergon grips.

Grips Products · Ergon Bike

www.ergonbike.com

 

[Old Fart At Play]

Scott - thanks for that, but the bars already have ergonomic grips. I have experimented with having the flattish part of the grip at different angles, but it doesn't seem to make any difference.

Cheers, John

 

[Nealh]

Straight bars and no different hand positions isn't natural for the hand/wrist angle, with drops you have options to change position. If you relax your hands to rest on your legs when sitting about 40 degrees is the natural wrist position, ideally handle bars with this sweep will prove to be ideal.
We are led by fashion and straight bars have been the trend since mtb's in the 80' which the manufacturers of bikes have brainwashed the public in to buying.
For those who don't think sweeps are any good need to try them you can get ones about 560- 600 width, it's that they are seen as for sit up and beg type bars only.

 

[Old Fart At Play]

Scott- just followed that link, I really like their grip selector thingy! It occurs to me that a grip that has the extra bit on the bar ends (as well as the flattened bit I already have) could be a good idea - get back to having different hand positions available. Food for thought, thanks

 

[Old Fart At Play]

Nealh - thanks for this, very helpful. I only have straight bars because that is what the bike came with; I have no particular desire for straight bars. Although I do really like the extra control I have with these bars compared to my drops - because my hands are further apart, I guess. Navigating slowly around obstacles and such like is much easier with these bars.

Can you post a link to the kind of bars you are talking about please? Many thanks
Cheers, John

 

[Old Fart At Play]

nealh - the bars you are talking about, do you mean something like the on-one Mary? I've been googling and lots of people have switched to those because of hand/wrist pain.
Ta
Cheers, John

 

[flecc]

I believe the on-one Mary fits what Neal recommends.

I had similar bars on a Giant Lafree (below) and loved them for their comfort.

I let a roadie, drop bars friend and neighbour ride it down the road one day since he'd never ridden an e-bike. I'd expected him to say something about the electric drive side, but to my surprise when he returned he said "What great handlebars!"

Totally unexpected, but showing just how impressive they are.

 

[Old Fart At Play]

flecc- ta v much for this, sounds very promising indeed. Did you need longer brake/gear cables/hoses for the on-one marys? Ta
Cheers, John

 

[flecc]

flecc- ta v much for this, sounds very promising indeed. Did you need longer brake/gear cables/hoses for the on-one marys? Ta
Cheers, John

No, they were the original handlebars on that model. As long as that style of bars you choose isn't too wide your cables should be ok. Neal mentioned 550 to 600 mm width. The on-one Mary are 645mm, not seriously wider, less than an inch more each side.

Lots of review comments on this link
.

 

[mike killay]

Well, try to imagine driving a car with a flat bar instead of steering wheel and you will understand my annoyance at manufacturers foisting straight bars on the public.
Dropped handlebars have a fore and aft hand position which is natural. Many early bikes after strangely the straight bars of the penny farthing had 'North Road' style bars with the hands at a natural position.

 

[Old Fart At Play]

flecc - ah, righto, ta. My current bars are 660 wide so hopefull I should be OK. Will check the stuff on that link, ta, much appreciated.
Cheers, John

 

[Old Fart At Play]

mike -
I see what you mean. Have just been out on a ride on my old tourer, and theer is no question it is better for hands - 4 different comfy positions. I assume the straight bars thing is good for riders on rocky trails etc. I mainly stick to tarmac!
Cheers, John

 

[mike killay]

mike -
I see what you mean. Have just been out on a ride on my old tourer, and theer is no question it is better for hands - 4 different comfy positions. I assume the straight bars thing is good for riders on rocky trails etc. I mainly stick to tarmac!
Cheers, John

I have a theory, not very sound I agree, but the original MTB bikes were made up by enthusiasts from existing bikes, and wishing to emulate the wider bars of Moto Cross, I guess that they just used any old wide and suitable piece of tubing.

 

[peter.c]

Had the same problem tried a adjustable riser but these on one bars solved it

 

[flecc]

I have a theory, not very sound I agree, but the original MTB bikes were made up by enthusiasts from existing bikes, and wishing to emulate the wider bars of Moto Cross, I guess that they just used any old wide and suitable piece of tubing.

Indeed, Motocross bars as you surmised:

"The earliest ancestors of modern mountain bikes were based around frames from cruiser bicycles such as those made by Schwinn. The Schwinn Excelsior was the frame of choice due to its geometry. Riders used balloon-tired cruisers and modified them with gears and motocross or BMX-style handlebars, creating "klunkers". The term would also be used as a verb since the term "mountain biking" was not yet in use."

Information link
.

 

[Nealh]

I have on one Geoff's very wide at 720mm but supremely comfortable, I have them on my 700c town/commute bike and on my 700c CX adventure bike. With the wide bars it is likely brakes and gear selectors will need to be lengthened, for extra thumb support I fit GP1/GP2 grips. For the less wide bars brakes and gear selectors should be fine.
Though not available at the mo on one Mike's are nice as well.

 

[MarcusT]

I suggest you take a look at hand position. It's not so much the pressure, but if your hands are in unnatural positions, it causes tingling or numbness. When your hands are on the bar, the hand must be straight with the wrist to the arm. Be sure to set your brake levers and ergo grips so that straight line is natural. Bar ends also give you the opportunity to change hand positions

 

[Bobajob]

Had the same problem tried a adjustable riser but these on one bars solved itView attachment 36166

Are they stock or adapted bars Peter?
That’s the sort of bars I think are very comfortable?

rob

 

[Old Fart At Play]

Peter - they look great. Is that a 40 degree angle on the backsweep?
Cheers, john