Hi folks advise please have purchased a mtb recently and need to fit /secure the upper torque arm to the forks which are made of aluminium to do this require a very heavy duty jubilee fastener/clip to go round the forks which are 120mm diameter, torque arm has a 20mm width hole and 4mm slot hole. Where would I get a such a jubilee clip and would this be rust resistant as commute along the coast. Maybe a chandlers if really necessary Your advise and help is much appreciated
Torque Arm fastener help
- Thread starter bayrider
- Start date
Not sure if this will help, but here's before and after pictures of my torque bracket.
I made the 'F' bracket out of 1.5mm steel. It fits between the caliper post mounts and the extension bracket. Torque bracket is fron Cyclezee.
I made the 'F' bracket out of 1.5mm steel. It fits between the caliper post mounts and the extension bracket. Torque bracket is fron Cyclezee.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
It's much better to fit the tie-bar to something fixed. show us a photo of your forks on the brake side.
Hi thanks for that bud have taken pics of brake side one thing I don't have is a hole mounting on the forks hence the two part torque arm being used and the jubilee clip can't see any other way to fix it.
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Deleted member 4366
Guest
Post-mount disc calipers are not as easy as side-mount. Study the picture in post#2 to see if you can do something similar.
Does that mean I can't accomplish the job have I brought the wrong bike? I was looking at the forks drop down so everything could sit in place then reviewed the torque arm all seemed ok
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D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
You have to find an anchor point for the torque arm's tie-bar. There's loads of ways you can do it if you apply a bit of thought. You can use a jubilee clip if you want, though I've seen them snap a few times, and the force is along the fork, which is the worst way to try and stop with a strap around the fork. Maybe use two jubilee clips.
I installed a torque arm on forks like that, for which I made a simple L-bracket out of 2.5mm steel strip with two holes - one to fix it to the lower disc mount screw and one for the tie-bar, which i made out of the same strip. I only ever use the piece that goes on the axle.
There's torque arms that are rigid when assembled. You don't get the sliding force with them, so you hardly need an anchor if you fit them in the right direction because the turning force pushes them against the fork leg.
You can weld the hinged torque arms to make them rigid one you know the position that they need to be.
I installed a torque arm on forks like that, for which I made a simple L-bracket out of 2.5mm steel strip with two holes - one to fix it to the lower disc mount screw and one for the tie-bar, which i made out of the same strip. I only ever use the piece that goes on the axle.
There's torque arms that are rigid when assembled. You don't get the sliding force with them, so you hardly need an anchor if you fit them in the right direction because the turning force pushes them against the fork leg.
You can weld the hinged torque arms to make them rigid one you know the position that they need to be.
the object of the torque arm is two-fold: resist the torque from the motor and more importantly, keep the motor axle inside the jaws of the fork's opening.
Therefore, the smaller the torque arm, the better because it restricts the movement of the motor axle better.
The best example I found besides the one fitted on the rear wheel of the Zephyr-B is the Ezee front wheel torque arm.
The one on the Zephyr-B has a very similar design.
Therefore, the smaller the torque arm, the better because it restricts the movement of the motor axle better.
The best example I found besides the one fitted on the rear wheel of the Zephyr-B is the Ezee front wheel torque arm.
The one on the Zephyr-B has a very similar design.
the object of the torque arm is two-fold: resist the torque from the motor and more importantly, keep the motor axle inside the jaws of the fork's opening.
Therefore, the smaller the torque arm, the better because it restricts the movement of the motor axle better.
The best example I found besides the one fitted on the rear wheel of the Zephyr-B is the Ezee front wheel torque arm.
The one on the Zephyr-B has a very similar design.
I have looked at the Ezee torque arm and in fact have it already firtted on my existing bike as it does have mudguard hole eyelets but the new bike I have dose not have these eyelets hence I'm having to fit the torque arm jubilee clip version is there any other way of securing the arm would clips used for marine or car part (exhaust) work have a couple secured to the fork?
Just looked again at your bike images and am I right in saying you have drilled a hole into the side offshoot of the fork drop outs and mounted your own steel plate if so was it easy to do and no fear of the offshoot brake arm breaking or shattering ? I wonder if I get a flat metal mending / joining plate with already pre -drilled holes would do and secure with two part epoxy and nutted bolts. then I could either fit the torque arm clamp style but use the small eyelet hole or purchase the torque attachment you have fitted.... your thoughts ?
Didn't drill the forks at all. The 'F' bracket is fitted to the caliper post with the caliper bolts.
Need a photo of the disc side of your forks to see if you can do the same.
Need a photo of the disc side of your forks to see if you can do the same.
Have taken pics as asked I have found on line W2 MIKALOR Stainless Super Heavy Duty Hose Clamp was thinking of using such clamp on the torque arm extension slot as it would seem a lot more robust than the clip that came with the fittings it is beveled so less digging in or damage to the forks
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I've not had much luck with Mikalor hose clamps in the past and have had a few sheer on me from over-tightening.
I've had no problem with GENUINE Jubilee Clips though. They seem to be able to take much more clamping force than Mikalors and all other cheap knock-offs. Here's where I purchased the last lot:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Jubilee-Hose-Clips-Clamps-Worm-Drive-Stainless-Steel-Mild-Steel-/121588482387
Thanks for that advise it looked like the others had more clout both with thickness and materiel but the jubilee clip that came with my torque arm looks bulk standard and wasn't sure of what type to get, but stainless steel jubilee or zinc /stainless steel they say this is corrosion free but would this be safe for the use of motor 36v 250 ? which is best and kite marked ?
I'm not that savvy when it comes to making parts also your bracket looks flush as mine wouldn't be as it seems it is set back and would make it uneven so will probably opt for the link you sent and purchase 2 x 90-120mm and or a rubber insulated p clamp (steel) and get nut and bolt and further down the arm clamp it round if I can failing that use both jubilee clips heavy grade marine class how does that sound ?
C
Cyclezee
Guest
If any of these used torque arms are of any use to anyone they are available for £1 each including 1st class P&P or £2 for the lot.
NB they are only 3mm thick, the middle one has a 14 x 10mm slot the other two are 12 x 10mm.
NB they are only 3mm thick, the middle one has a 14 x 10mm slot the other two are 12 x 10mm.
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