Help! Voilamart 26” front hub looking for repair

[mikeconnect]

Maybe, but I couldn't find anything with a resistance that low on mine and I'm wondering how likely is it that the layout is that different (other than no limiter included)? Could it be the modifications made by the "friend" have caused this low reading?

Help you evaluate whether destructoa mods made any difference . He replaced aN unknown dead component at R2 With a 100 nF capacitor. He replaced the sensors without knowing what they were or if they were faulty, with 49 sensors which VFR says were wrong. And finally he destructively butchered the circuits in 2 places near the sensors .Please continue

 

[vfr400]

Look at the photo I posted of the board nobody has commented on it. I pointed out 2 yellow circles where it looks like the bad soldering fiend damaged the actual circuits. Am I right Or not? cos if so it’s a new board . Anyway I’m still to Beep check the last 3 thick wires

If a track blew where you indicated next to Q2, it can only be because your cable has shorted, in which case your whole motor is scrap unless you can find someone to do the very difficult repair. Even if you can find someone, it will probably cost more than a new motor anyway.

 

[vfr400]

Help you evaluate whether destructoa mods made any difference . He replaced aN unknown dead component at R2 With a 100 nF capacitor. He replaced the sensors without knowing what they were or if they were faulty, with 49 sensors which VFR says were wrong. And finally he destructively butchered the circuits in 2 places near the sensors .Please continue

I think you're discrediting him. The only mistake he made was using the wrong type of hall sensor, assuming he fitted SS49s. How did he get involved and what did you ask him to do?

It's all academic anyway because I'm pretty sure that your motor is scrap. A spin-out is normally terminal. The only time it isn't is when your motor still works afterwards, but yours didn't. Hall sensors, resistors and tracks blow because something shorted in the cable. The only way you get a short is when the twisting breaks the insulation around each conductor. there's no way back from that as the break is always right at the end of the axle where you can't repair it.

All we need is for you to test that cable and show that it's faulty, then we can concentrate on how to sort your problem. That's been said three or 4 times now, but we're still waiting. If it doesn't come soon, people are going to start assuming that you live under a bridge.

 

[mikeconnect]

If a track blew where you indicated next to Q2, it can only be because your cable has shorted, in which case your whole motor is scrap unless you can find someone to do the very difficult repair. Even if you can find someone, it will probably cost more than a new motor anyway.

A track didn’t blow . They were massacred by destructo and his terrible soldering . Wire tests show nothing as I said. And secondly , he did test R2 and it was dead. So maybe that acted as a fuse

 

[mikeconnect]

I think you're discrediting him. The only mistake he made was using the wrong type of hall sensor, assuming he fitted SS49s. How did he get involved and what did you ask him to do?

It's all academic anyway because I'm pretty sure that your motor is scrap. A spin-out is normally terminal. The only time it isn't is when your motor still works afterwards, but yours didn't. Hall sensors, resistors and tracks blow because something shorted in the cable. The only way you get a short is when the twisting breaks the insulation around each conductor. there's no way back from that as the break is always right at the end of the axle where you can't repair it.

All we need is for you to test that cable and show that it's faulty, then we can concentrate on how to sort your problem. That's been said three or 4 times now, but we're still waiting. If it doesn't come soon, people are going to start assuming that you live under a bridge.

I’ve come to The conclusion that this forum is not very fluent at notifying replies to your posts . I’ve reported testing the cables at least twice now . They’re all ok and beep , there’s no cross beeping so no short . Can’t understand why you’ve not seen it .

 

[mikeconnect]

Cable tests are done cable tests are done cable tests are done . VFR still asking me why I haven’t done it . This is my third time of declaring that I’ve tested all for continuity and short and nothing detected

 

[mikeconnect]

Think I’d better tell you that this bike has a throttle so maybe that blew R2. Also the on off battery indicator on handlebar switches on therefore receives power .

 

[Nealh]

Mike your impatience is showing one needs to be more patient, too many posts repeating themselves in to short a timescale for response. Users don't live permanently attached to the forum and there may be several hours before they dip back in.
vfr has indicated that although continuity may be fine on all wires it still doesn't rule out that the spinning out hasn't caused the inner wires casing to split and thus a pair of wires could still be shorting against each other. Without being able to see inside the outer cables sheathing no one can be 100% sure that no damage or splits have occurred within.

Use this link and follow it to test the controller mosfets, if a short did occur one or more will be damaged. Rather then explain the process it is much easier to read the easy how to guide. For best results discharge the capacitor fully by touching the controller +/- battery connections together, sometimes a spark may occur but it will cause no damage.

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/BlownMosfets.pdf

Once done check out the hall sensor testing again using the easy to follow guide in the link below.

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf

 

[Nealh]

As regard to the AliEx motor pcb board no one can be sure that it will be correct or work for your motor as it has been tried/tested by anyone, it is a case that sometimes someone has to be the guinea pig and just take the punt and report back their findings.

 

[mikeconnect]

Mike your impatience is showing one needs to be more patient, too many posts repeating themselves in to short a timescale for response. Users don't live permanently attached to the forum and there may be several hours before they dip back in.
vfr has indicated that although continuity may be fine on all wires it still doesn't rule out that the spinning out hasn't caused the inner wires casing to split and thus a pair of wires could still be shorting against each other. Without being able to see inside the outer cables sheathing no one can be 100% sure that no damage or splits have occurred within.

Use this link and follow it to test the controller mosfets, if a short did occur one or more will be damaged. Rather then explain the process it is much easier to read the easy how to guide. For best results discharge the capacitor fully by touching the controller +/- battery connections together, sometimes a spark may occur but it will cause no damage.

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/BlownMosfets.pdf

Once done check out the hall sensor testing again using the easy to follow guide in the link below.

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf

I’m not being impatient . People are complaining to me that I’ve not dine cable tests when I’ve posted 3 times that I’ve done it . anyway thanks for advice but need to point something out .
1. I’ve Done cross wire tests As advisedby VFR. Beep tested all wires against others . So I understand from that there are no shorts ??
2. There is a hand throttle connected to this system . And the on off switch/ battery Indicator switches on, so my questions are
A. If the lights are on on the on off switch doesn’t that mean the controller is ok ?
B. Throttle was partly on on wheel drop out , and the R2 was found to be blown afterwards . So can’t it be that that caused the problem and not the cables ? Bearing in mind the cables have been tested

 

[WheezyRider]

I’m not being impatient . People are complaining to me that I’ve not dine cable tests when I’ve posted 3 times that I’ve done it . anyway thanks for advice but need to point something out .
1. I’ve Done cross wire tests As advisedby VFR. Beep tested all wires against others . So I understand from that there are no shorts ??
2. There is a hand throttle connected to this system . And the on off switch/ battery Indicator switches on, so my questions are
A. If the lights are on on the on off switch doesn’t that mean the controller is ok ?
B. Throttle was partly on on wheel drop out , and the R2 was found to be blown afterwards . So can’t it be that that caused the problem and not the cables ? Bearing in mind the cables have been tested

On your motor, R2 doesn't seem to be connected to anything, there is nothing on pad H.

If all cables check out fine, it suggests there is a fault in the controller. Follow Nealh's advice for checking this. If there is a fault, you have to ask yourself, why?

In my experience, this motor will run a little bit noisy, but otherwise fine with all Hall cables disconnected using the Voilamart controller, so I would not assume the reason for the motor not running is down to the Hall sensors.

The other thing I have not mentioned, with Voilamart controllers, NEVER disconnect the Hall cable with the controller powered up. With early models it will blow the Hall sensing IC in the controller.

This happened to me, but I was fortunate to get a replacement controller for free under warranty.

You could use the controller from your other bike to test, but you could end up making both bikes unserviceable by blowing the controller in your good bike, so one of these from China may be a consideration, at the end of the day it doesnt cost much more than the PCB you are thinking of buying.




I would want to be absolutely certain about shorts between the cables. That is why people here keep saying, make sure you are sure. Be sure to bend and twist things around when you test, all it needs to blow something is a momentary contact, that might occur only when the wire is moved.

 

[mikeconnect]

On your motor, R2 doesn't seem to be connected to anything, there is nothing on pad H.

If all cables check out fine, it suggests there is a fault in the controller. Follow Nealh's advice for checking this. If there is a fault, you have to ask yourself, why?

In my experience, this motor will run a little bit noisy, but otherwise fine with all Hall cables disconnected using the Voilamart controller, so I would not assume the reason for the motor not running is down to the Hall sensors.

The other thing I have not mentioned, with Voilamart controllers, NEVER desconnect the Hall cable with the controller powered up. With early models it will blow the Hall sensing IC in the controller.

This happened to me, but I was fortunate to get a replacement controller for free under warranty.

You could use the controller from your other bike to test, but you could end up making both bikes unserviceable by blowing the controller in your good bike, so one of these from China may be a consideration, at the end of the day it doesnt cost much more than the PCB you are thinking of buying.

View attachment 37458


I would want to be absolutely certain about shorts between the cables. That is why people here keep saying, make sure you are sure. Be sure to bend and twist things around when you test, all it needs to blow something is a momentary contact, that might occur only when the wire is moved.

Thanks . Just dont understand how the on/off / battery switch lit up if controller faulty but I’ll try . I hope I can access it from the. Chain side cos the other side cowling is a pig.
I’m gonna do as you Say but keep thinking about the R2 that was blown and that it was the possible reason for not working .

 

[Nealh]

The mosfets are/act as an on /off switch ( a small semi conductor), supplying voltage to the motor at the operating voltage of the battery. The voltage that turns the display on also comes via the controller but using a separate 5v line and not the main power mosfets, so irrelevant of whether a mosfet has failed it will always have a 5v voltage supply.
Just because the display turns on doesn't mean the hub will work.
Rule out the wiring and the mosfets as tested and ok, then turn attention to the hub.
As wheezyrider has said the hub should work sensor less so disconnect them to try it.

 

[mikeconnect]

The mosfets are/act as an on /off switch ( a small semi conductor), supplying voltage to the motor at the operating voltage of the battery. The voltage that turns the display on also comes via the controller but using a separate 5v line and not the main power mosfets, so irrelevant of whether a mosfet has failed it will always have a 5v voltage supply.
Just because the display turns on doesn't mean the hub will work.
Rule out the wiring and the mosfets as tested and ok, then turn attention to the hub.
As wheezyrider has said the hub should work sensor less so disconnect them to try it.

Thanks . Won’t touch the board for now. I’ll follow the path you’ve all kindly given me. But I work so think the controller will be weekend . I’ll try your idea about removing sensors later but bear in mind photo on one of my posts /replies Where it shows possible damages circuits /tracks after the first guy I gave it to did some horrible soldering which appears to have done damage around his work

 

[Nealh]

You may have to just take the punt and buy the Aliexp pcb board, the fact it may not be exactly the same layout wise as yours may not matter as it looks as if only the speed sensor is missing, An external spd sensor with spoke magnet can be added quite easily after the motor works if it can be got to work again.

 

[mikeconnect]

You may have to just take the punt and buy the Aliexp pcb board, the fact it may not be exactly the same layout wise as yours may not matter as it looks as if only the speed sensor is missing, An external spd sensor with spoke magnet can be added quite easily after the motor works if it can be got to work again.

Yeh don’t mind taking a chance on that. But questions
1. I thought Somebody mentioned that mine didn’t have a speed sensor ?
2. What is a speed sensor purpose
3 Ithought the Only main difference with Ali board was the missing R1 and R2??
4. How is the PCB removed ? Desolder or does it “unplug “?
thanks

 

[Nealh]

In the main part soldered with the hall wires some boards have small machine screws (but doesn't appear so with yours) otherwise they may have a couple of lugs on the back that slot in somewhere or maybe adhered down.

 

[mikeconnect]

In the main part soldered with the hall wires some boards have small machine screws (but doesn't appear so with yours) otherwise they may have a couple of lugs on the back that slot in somewhere or maybe adhered down.

Thanks but what about Q1 2 and 3 .

 

[WheezyRider]

Thanks but what about Q1 2 and 3 .

On most bikes there is a speed sensor signal from the motor to tell the controller how fast the wheels are turning and hence when to start limiting power to the motor as speed approaches 25.5 mph.

On some bikes there is a separate sensor elsewhere on the bike, so a signal from the motor is not needed. This appears to be the case with your bike.

 

[mikeconnect]

On most bikes there is a speed sensor signal from the motor to tell the controller how fast the wheels are turning and hence when to start limiting power to the motor as speed approaches 25.5 mph.

On some bikes there is a separate sensor elsewhere on the bike, so a signal from the motor is not needed. This appears to be the case with your bike.

Thanks so the only unknown is whether the Ali board Will work without the R1 and R2 components