Hello, I am new to ebikes and this forum. I have just installed the 350w Yose power rear hub motor kit, with 13.5ah hailong battery.
First discovery - no controller! After a while, I realised that it was built into the battery base plate. Yose Power really ought to update the instructions and stop including the superfluous separate controller bag in the box.
Otherwise, first impressions were good.
Niggles I encountered when fitting were, firstly, the heads of my 5mm water cage allen bolts were too deep for the slots in the battery mounting plate. Maybe I could have found other screws but I just ground the allen bolts down instead. I also had to use Riv-Nuts to make a few new 5mm cage mounts further up the down tube. Otherwise the battery fouled on the seat post tube. No big deal, but all new to me and a wee bit of a fiddle.
The PAS sensor wouldn't fit as my bottom bracket was an old item with weird plastic retaining rings (without the required 20 splines). So I had to install a new bottom bracket. Having read that there is sometimes not enough room for the sensor, I bought a 127mm length item. Wrong! Too big. So on went a standard 122.5mm and the sensor then fitted ok.
I did appreciate the tools that YosePower supplied. I actually needed a new set of allen keys, so that was handy. Likewise, the crank puller did the job.
The electrical connections seem to be of good quality and well thought out, at least they are a snug fit and look like they would be weatherproof.
The whole build took quite a few evenings as I also replaced the crankset, chain, installed new shifters, brake pads, mudguards and dynamo lighting. The bike itself was a late 90's rigid MTB, made by the Edinburgh Bicycle Coop. It was in fairly sound condition but needed some upgrading.
Today I had my first 20 mile ride. Impressions? Pretty good. It's quite amazing to plough up hills in top gear with only moderate pedalling and maintain a decent speed on the flat too. I used PAS level 5 all the way and managed to shave 15 mins off my commute time. However, I seem to have a problem with the PAS. When pedalling, especially when trying to accelerate quickly, the power seems to cut out for a few seconds. This is quite annoying at lights, for example. It can be overcome by using the throttle and then going back to PAS but even then, it sometimes stutters. I've looked on Pedelecs and Google and it seems that the sensor or wiring could be worth checking out. On my bike everything is new and nothing has seen the rain - so no question of corrosion or a duff battery. I'll try taking the plugs apart and rejoining them first. Failing that another sensor, in case I damaged it on installation ...
As for speed, using the PAS only and pedalling has the bike cruising at about 18mph (with the aforementioned stuttering). Whacking on the throttle and pedalling sees the speed go up to 20ish. The PAS does seem to hold the bike back a bit at the top end, although it is still a boon on the hills.
I'm quite keen to sort the PAS problem out as I don't want the hassle of holding the throttle open all the time, never mind the juice that it pulls when riding this way!
Most often I ride in top gear (occasionally 2nd or 3rd from top), pedalling moderately, pulling 200-250 watts at about 18mph and am untroubled by hills. So it's a worthwhile kit, despite a few niggles.
Gary
First discovery - no controller! After a while, I realised that it was built into the battery base plate. Yose Power really ought to update the instructions and stop including the superfluous separate controller bag in the box.
Otherwise, first impressions were good.
Niggles I encountered when fitting were, firstly, the heads of my 5mm water cage allen bolts were too deep for the slots in the battery mounting plate. Maybe I could have found other screws but I just ground the allen bolts down instead. I also had to use Riv-Nuts to make a few new 5mm cage mounts further up the down tube. Otherwise the battery fouled on the seat post tube. No big deal, but all new to me and a wee bit of a fiddle.
The PAS sensor wouldn't fit as my bottom bracket was an old item with weird plastic retaining rings (without the required 20 splines). So I had to install a new bottom bracket. Having read that there is sometimes not enough room for the sensor, I bought a 127mm length item. Wrong! Too big. So on went a standard 122.5mm and the sensor then fitted ok.
I did appreciate the tools that YosePower supplied. I actually needed a new set of allen keys, so that was handy. Likewise, the crank puller did the job.
The electrical connections seem to be of good quality and well thought out, at least they are a snug fit and look like they would be weatherproof.
The whole build took quite a few evenings as I also replaced the crankset, chain, installed new shifters, brake pads, mudguards and dynamo lighting. The bike itself was a late 90's rigid MTB, made by the Edinburgh Bicycle Coop. It was in fairly sound condition but needed some upgrading.
Today I had my first 20 mile ride. Impressions? Pretty good. It's quite amazing to plough up hills in top gear with only moderate pedalling and maintain a decent speed on the flat too. I used PAS level 5 all the way and managed to shave 15 mins off my commute time. However, I seem to have a problem with the PAS. When pedalling, especially when trying to accelerate quickly, the power seems to cut out for a few seconds. This is quite annoying at lights, for example. It can be overcome by using the throttle and then going back to PAS but even then, it sometimes stutters. I've looked on Pedelecs and Google and it seems that the sensor or wiring could be worth checking out. On my bike everything is new and nothing has seen the rain - so no question of corrosion or a duff battery. I'll try taking the plugs apart and rejoining them first. Failing that another sensor, in case I damaged it on installation ...
As for speed, using the PAS only and pedalling has the bike cruising at about 18mph (with the aforementioned stuttering). Whacking on the throttle and pedalling sees the speed go up to 20ish. The PAS does seem to hold the bike back a bit at the top end, although it is still a boon on the hills.
I'm quite keen to sort the PAS problem out as I don't want the hassle of holding the throttle open all the time, never mind the juice that it pulls when riding this way!
Most often I ride in top gear (occasionally 2nd or 3rd from top), pedalling moderately, pulling 200-250 watts at about 18mph and am untroubled by hills. So it's a worthwhile kit, despite a few niggles.
Gary
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