Do the controllers have 5v the mini fan's could be permanently connected to?2 x 5v mini fans screwed on wired in parallel and an already 2p 1s 18650 battery welded together with small 1s bms , 2 pin sm discharge connector and a screw on charge connector added utilised for independent cooling.
The 5v mini fans use <10mah or something low so a pair of 18650's will run these for a day or two if needed.
Not to sure of what you mean -youe 250w front hub the same motor as the rear 350w
Dual volt ones have a light/horn out puts and other spare out puts, I think I did test them and they weren't permanent live. That is why I went with small 2P battery.Do the controllers have 5v the mini fan's could be permanently connected to?
14g sapim strongs.What size spokes would I need to change from 26'' into 28'' (700C) rim ? Motor is 350W 36V.
Any KT PAS should be ok - most of pages 8-13 of this thread should have a few links - have a look on topbikekit.com(best for julet) or pswpower.com or bmsbattery.com all these site have different prices and shipping cost I think there is a cheap one on banggood.com but if its like mine it may b bi-directional and I don't think it say KT and its not julet. JUST read stuff carefully and magnify the pics to make sure its KT and some could be left hand side operational or right hand side.thinner KT compatible alternative PAS
I ended up even with a wider bottom bracket, but I removed the back of the sensor (small single screw), then pushed on the wheel with the metal round dots onto the bottom bracket, then fitted the other half ( with the cab;e) and ran a bit of gaffer tape around the whole thing. Not pretty but works fineIf you have a dremel or similar cutter/grinder, cut the outer splines off the back of the sensor and it should then fit flush with the BB. If it is still a little tight, sand/grind a little material off the inside of the crank arm until the sensor moves freely with the arm refitted and tightened. 1 small cable tie on the chain stay will stop the outer part of the sensor moving. I've used this method on a couple of builds and it works a treat.
I can say the 250w front has limited torque and I found as a shopping bike it was fine 10-15 miles a day, slow runs out on a sunny no wind day and its fine, however when it comes to hills and head wind it lacks that little extra and you will find that you will have to put some effect in, mine cuts out smack on 15.4mph which saves battery I suppose - but I was used to the extra power of the 350w kit and its hard to go back to 250w - if you have ridden a 350w or a high torque ebike before then I would go for the 350w even if you haven't the 350w can be limited to 15mph via a simple fairly easy access menu on the LCD3 then if you do decide you want the extra speed its there ready to go.not sure whether front
Erm I take my battery off the rack when not in use and make sure the off switch is OFF - never had a problem yeti could keep it physically disconnected
Does this happen when the on case power switch is off?? surely notdraw milliamps even though they are not working