Yosepower hub kits.

[quackstar84]

That's how my motor sits on my 26" that's why I always recommend some sort of fashioned torque arm, a good fitting torque arm can be tricky to find, some bikes (not mine) have allen bolt holes which help when fitting a torque arm.

Thanks for letting me know =) that bike is an GT from 2005 but toast anyhow, it needs too much work than it's worth.

 

[Nealh]

When selecting a bike /frame for rear hub conversion the drop outs are the first thing I look at, there needs to be significant material above the drop out area.

 

[quackstar84]

Hello here's all the cables which are compatibly with the OKfeet's 36V/48V 17A and 22A controller;

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/36V-48V22A-Electric-bicycle-standard-sinewave-controller-Light-function-water-tightness-cable-KT-Series-500W-conversion/32857864688.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1da04aa6LTe84F&algo_pvid=4d549b54-dc1d-4d7a-9580-236b781f2520&algo_expid=4d549b54-dc1d-4d7a-9580-236b781f2520-0&btsid=311cfe8a-9b0d-401f-ab24-afad9cd74d3c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6,searchweb201603_52

if you weren't aware; 1 in 4 (3 pin)

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Okfeet-1-in-4-cable-4-to-1-wire-controller-connector-2pin-3-pin-ebrake-conversion/3521021_32887725873.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.25942396LKwY68

Might help you see if you can replace your kit's controller with one of theirs. I just bought the 36V/48V22A controller.

Thanks again for your help guys.

 

[PC2017]

the 1t4 is not compatible with the YOSE ebrakes and the 1t5 would not work with the YOSE controller though!

 

[quackstar84]

the 1t4 is not compatible with the YOSE ebrakes and the 1t5 would not work with the YOSE controller though!

Yes i'll remove the 1t5 as it's no use at all. Although one of the cables they sell is the same as yose's (please view photo). The one they show on their link which has two red ends is the two pin ebrakes which aren't useable... for some reason they haven't altered it to default to the three pin first photo, and they don't have any 2 pin in stock... i'll metion this to them. They were really helpful to me. I'll edit my post now PC2017 thank you.

 

[quackstar84]

Ok i've removed the 1 in 5 pin and changed the 1 in 4 pin to also include "(3 pin)". Is that correct now?

 

[quackstar84]

I think when I wrote that I was also thinking about people who other types of controllers which are like yose but include the light funtion or have 2 pins.

 

[Biga]

i have been following this thread with interest and i am fitting a yose hub i had to shift the wheel over to alow the chain to index onto the outer gear to work, this has meant i will need to dish the wheel about 3mm to center it i have tried a 2mm spoke key, this was too small i then tried a 3mm spoke key which fitted but was lose and i am worried if i start using this key i will round off the spoke nipples. i would like to know if any body has got any experience in dishing this wheel and if so which size spoke key they used.

 

[vfr400]

If you use one of these cheap keys from Ebay, it's the 13G slot.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bike-Cycle-6-Way-Wheel-Rim-Spoke-Adjuster-Wrench-Key-Spanner-Bicycle-Repair-Tool/272704320808?epid=2224459326&hash=item3f7e71b528:g:zeYAAOSwLdJcdYPf
If you need it quickly.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mountain-Bike-6-Way-Wheel-Rim-Spoke-Adjuster-Wrench-Nipple-Key-Spanner-T/183561288913?hash=item2abd1afcd1:g:vpoAAOSwGD1cAinX

Looking at the pictures in the listings, the wheel already should have a substantial dish. You can't just keep dishing because the spoke tension goes up exponentially on the gears side, and at the same time, they become too loose on the other side. Have you installed your disc yet because you normally need an extra washer on that side, which might even it out. If you don't have a disc brake, you can add washers on that side anyway, which is much better than dishing the wheel.

 

[PC2017]

Is that correct now?

As long as they do a 3 pin that'll fit the YOSE brakes then you'll be ok - me personally, I use the 2 pin red and then use my own brakes with brake sensors saves hassle if you need to change bikes or like me fit a hydraulic brake not to mention I found the red 2 pin cable is cheaper and widely available.

 

[Biga]

If you use one of these cheap keys from Ebay, it's the 13G slot.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bike-Cycle-6-Way-Wheel-Rim-Spoke-Adjuster-Wrench-Key-Spanner-Bicycle-Repair-Tool/272704320808?epid=2224459326&hash=item3f7e71b528:g:zeYAAOSwLdJcdYPf
If you need it quickly.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mountain-Bike-6-Way-Wheel-Rim-Spoke-Adjuster-Wrench-Nipple-Key-Spanner-T/183561288913?hash=item2abd1afcd1:g:vpoAAOSwGD1cAinX

Looking at the pictures in the listings, the wheel already should have a substantial dish. You can't just keep dishing because the spoke tension goes up exponentially on the gears side, and at the same time, they become too loose on the other side. Have you installed your disc yet because you normally need an extra washer on that side, which might even it out. If you don't have a disc brake, you can add washers on that side anyway, which is much better than dishing the wheel.

 

[Biga]

Thank you for the prompt reply and the link, I will send for 1, I will get it in June lol, you are right there is not a lot of thread showing on the nipples so not a lot of movement to play with, I have made a spreader to open the back of the frame, this allowed me to play about with the washers as the wheel is a tight fit in the frame, on the cassette side I have the tab washer on the inside this has given me about 1mm clearance when the chain is on the outer cog I would have liked a bit more but the gears are indexing ok, on the none drive side I have got the frame against the axel nut and the tab washer & washer on the outside, the bike I am using for the conversion is an old Trek FX7300 I have had for a long time and it is rim braked I upgraded the pads after going camping overloaded and managed to reach 48 miles an hr going down a hill into Barmouth with no chance of stopping lol. Once more thanks for the reply.

 

[vfr400]

Thank you for the prompt reply and the link, I will send for 1, I will get it in June lol, you are right there is not a lot of thread showing on the nipples so not a lot of movement to play with, I have made a spreader to open the back of the frame, this allowed me to play about with the washers as the wheel is a tight fit in the frame, on the cassette side I have the tab washer on the inside this has given me about 1mm clearance when the chain is on the outer cog I would have liked a bit more but the gears are indexing ok, on the none drive side I have got the frame against the axel nut and the tab washer & washer on the outside, the bike I am using for the conversion is an old Trek FX7300 I have had for a long time and it is rim braked I upgraded the pads after going camping overloaded and managed to reach 48 miles an hr going down a hill into Barmouth with no chance of stopping lol. Once more thanks for the reply.

If you have rim brakes, it's no problem to spread the frame on the left side and add washers to centralise the wheel.

The problem is not the amount of thread left, it's the tension in the spokes, a small dish makes hardly any difference, but by the time you have a dish big enough to position the spokes at 90 deg, you have zero tension on the left side and infinite tension on the right. As I said, the difference in tension from one side to the other rises exponentially with the amount of dish. Ideally, you shouldn't go more than about 5mm, but I bet your wheel already has about 10mm.

 

[Biga]

Thank for the reply, sorry for the delay in replying as you may have gathered I am no wheel builder so thanks for putting me straight, I have another problem you may be able to advise me about I have had my first ride on the bike and have set the throttle to come on independently of the assistants level and it is a revelation in hilly north wales it is a pleasure coming to a hill now, the problem I have is I don’t think the peddle assist is working and I am not sure if I have set something up wrong when I have gone through the settings I would be grateful for any advice as you may have gathered that I am new to e-biking. I did look at setting C14 this was on 2 which seams ok .

 

[vfr400]

You should always test the pedal assist before bolting up the cranks. Does it work when you pedal backwards. if so, you have to flip the magnet disc, assuming you have one. You need to tell us which sensor you have. You can sometimes reverse the direction by software, depending on which version you have. If you can, it's the C1 setting, where C1 from 0 to 2 are forward and 5 to 7 are backwards and used for the KT V12 sensors.

There are two settings that affect the pedal assist.
P3 =1 to get power control
C1 can be anywhere from 0 to 7 depending on which sensor you have.

I think C14 is for how much power you get when you have P3 set to zero (speed control), though I've never tried it because speed control sucks.

 

[Biga]

You should always test the pedal assist before bolting up the cranks. Does it work when you pedal backwards. if so, you have to flip the magnet disc, assuming you have one. You need to tell us which sensor you have. You can sometimes reverse the direction by software, depending on which version you have. If you can, it's the C1 setting, where C1 from 0 to 2 are forward and 5 to 7 are backwards and used for the KT V12 sensors.

There are two settings that affect the pedal assist.
P3 =1 to get power control
C1 can be anywhere from 0 to 7 depending on which sensor you have.

I think C14 is for how much power you get when you have P3 set to zero (speed control), though I've never tried it because speed control sucks.

 

[Biga]

This is the pas sensor supplied in the kit (Cable:52cm W/O connector
Dual hall sensor,12 signals output)and is an integrated all in one item, I have taken the crank arm off to check that it is sitting right up to the crank and it is secure and when you turn the pedals the inner turns.

I reset the factory settings then changed P3=1 & P4=0 TO allow the throttle to work independently, I have tested C1 setting on 07 as the revers setting and 00 as the forward setting neither seem to have any affect, I have knottiest that using the throttle I am using over 400w but on the pas settings 0 watts are being used.

Is there a way of testing the sensor to see if it is giving a signal?

Thanks for your help hopefully I will get there in the end or I will be going round using throttle up every hill round hear, will I was out testing I past lycra clad man going uphill I don’t think he was impressed when I sailed past.

 

[PC2017]

Is there a way of testing the sensor

Have you check the connector, if it is plugged in and fully connected try unplugging it to check if any pins have folded in or are loose, Email YOSE they should send you a replacement or offer some suggestions on sorting your problem.

There is a few of us that either didn't like the PAS(me) or did not get on well with it for installation reasons and purchased an after market PAS KT compatible, there is plenty of links in this thread alongside plenty of info it is a good read from start to finish!

 

[egroover]

I picked up another 13ah 36v Hailong from Yose, arrived in the week, payed about £151 delivered from Germany, I think I got the last one in stock. Happy to report all good, seeing peak at about 520w at the wheel on level 5, great range as my other 13ah from Yose. Although these use chinese cells, I'm very happy with the range and performance (when new and ongoing), they seem great quality.
If anyone is in the market for one, I noticed although they are out of stock, the price listed has dropped further, be interesting to see if the listed price stays the same when they come back into stock. Bargain at about £140 delivered (with charger)

 

[Biga]

Have you check the connector, if it is plugged in and fully connected try unplugging it to check if any pins have folded in or are loose, Email YOSE they should send you a replacement or offer some suggestions on sorting your problem.

There is a few of us that either didn't like the PAS(me) or did not get on well with it for installation reasons and purchased an after market PAS KT compatible, there is plenty of links in this thread alongside plenty of info it is a good read from start to finish!