Yosepower hub kits.

[Hush]

Thank you for your advises.
I will go for a 48v
Ok about the PAS, I will check the bottom bracket and crank.
About the brake lever, I agree that you can connect a V brake lever and a caliper or cantilever... But you won't get the right amount of pull and the right pressure on the brake shoes unless you have strong hands. Hence, you find this kind of levers :

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RBBR001-01-ENG.pdf

I am not sure that the Yose levers have the same configuration.
Hush

 

[vfr400]

The brake levers will be fine. if you don't like them, you don't need to use them. brake cut-offs aren't necessary with that kit. I don't have them on mine.

One more thing: There are two versions of the rear motor. One has the threadded boss for free-wheel gears and the other has the spline for free-hub gears. Make sure you select the right one if you want to use your existing gears. If you have free-wheel gears, there's nothing to stop you from upgrading, but you'll need to buy the cassette to go with it. Likewise, you can downgrade from free-hub to free-wheel, but you'll be limited to 7-speed gears because of the width. Also, you need to buy a DNP freewheel to get 11 teeth on the top gear for the correct pedal speed when you have the free-wheel motor

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[PC2017]

Ok about the PAS

Hi Hush

The kit is customizable to an extent but it will cost a few extra $$....

some of use are using this PAS, I agree the kit PAS is a bit nasty...

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And if you want to use your own brake levers or some branded ones then you could always get some brake sensors, BUT be aware that the YOSE 1to4 cable is different on the brake connectors unless you want to read this entire thread from the start the best bet is to buy YOSE brake sensors, there is a way to use non-YOSE sensors but by the time you have purchased a different 1to4 cable and the sensors it'll cost about the same as buying from YOSE...

Yose Power

Electric bike battery available online at YOSEPOWER. Spare and replacement electric bike batteries and chargers for top brands at affordable prices.

www.yosepower.com

I can recommend brake sensors but I have not tried the YOSE brand.

I have to state that brake senors/cut offs are important from a safety aspect, I got a short from some water in my kit once and if it wasn't for the brake cut off it could of been problematic. I could of just switched off the battery, but your first instinct is to hit the brakes.

 

[Ten98]

Regarding punctures, I did notice on the supplied wheel that there was no protection between the inner tube and the groove in the wheel where it's supposed to sit. Some of the machined edges are quite sharp, which I found surprising.

On my old wheel, there was a ribbon of plastic all the way around the outside, which sat in that groove. It acts as a barrier between the wheel and the tube.

I just slipped it off my old wheel and placed it on the YosePower wheel, and all was well. I also got some high quality Schwalbe inner tubes and tyres, and so far so good!

 

[vfr400]

You always need a rim tape. If you haven't got one, you can run a couple of rounds of insulating tape over the spoke holes. You don't normally get a rim tape when you buy a Chinese motor wheel, so you have to provide your own.

 

[Ten98]

Yes you probably have the throttle parameter set for pedal first then throttle is active.
P4 setting needs to be value 0.
C4 value 0 or 2 where you can set a speed limit for it.

Can you tell me how to do this? The manual doesn't mention how to change these settings!

 

[vfr400]

Within 5 seconds of switching on, press and the up and down buttons until it goes to the settings screen. The up and down buttons change the values. Short press of the power button changes to the next parameter and a long press saves and exits to normal display.

 

[PC2017]

The manual

Best english version of the full manual, YOSE should of sent you this via email - this is dillenger but the for the same LCD3 setup

https://880b28d3d003e6b1c176-ee9159906b823979ce618332e73bec87.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.com/other/en_KT-LCD3.pdf

As a regard to punctures - puncture resistant tyres and or slime inner tubes - slime, some ppl hate it for weight and other reasons others swear by it, I got it as I was fed up with taking my back wheel out every 100 miles, best advice for building an ebike is always purchase quality parts that are going to get worn easy, a ebike goes further and does a lot more work than a normal bike would all year round, most ebike users can cover 150+ miles per month, I do 200+ in the summer and 100+ in the winter per month, on a normal bike unless you are ultra fit and have lots of time not so many!

 

[Olleman]

Has anybody experienced intermittent problems with the electronics? Ever since this summer I have this occasional "freeze" where everything in the display just freezes (speed, wattage etc) and assistance is turned of. Neither PAS nor throttle will work during this time. After about 10-20 seconds it resumes and everything is as usual. Sometimes it happens several times within minutes and other times I can bike for hours between occasions. It's not realated to the amount of power I use I've had this happen at every PAS level.

I have contacted yose about this but they want me to test several things when this happens and since it's very intermittent it takes ages to get this sorted. I have tried changing the PAS and that won't change anything. Seems to me that there's something wrong with the controller.

Don't know if this is related but I did use full throttle uphill for several minutes during the summer and this exact thing happened. I assumed it was overheated and after a while everything went back to normal. Perhaps something got overheated and slightly damaged?

 

[vfr400]

The LCD works independently from the rest of the system, so no amount of abuse of the rest of the system can affect it. It's only connected to the controller by two data wires. The controller and LCD can only speak with each other. No power goes down those wires. It also functions separately as a power switch for the controller. The blue wire becomes connected to the red battery wire when you switch it on. The blue wire then connects the battery to the controller's pcb. If there were any problem on those wires, you'd see something happening on the battery display and the LCD would lose communication with the controller to give error code 0.

I'd say that it's 90% certain that you have some sort of problem in the LCD, probably software related. The only other logical cause is that communication is getting interrupted, but you should see an error code 0 if that happens. Also, it's vaguely possible that a particular set of parameters might expose a bug in the firmware.

The only solution I can think of is to make a note of all the parameter settings, then do a reset by setting C10=y.

 

[Nealh]

I would think the issue is lcd orientated and nothing else.

 

[Olleman]

The LCD works independently from the rest of the system, so no amount of abuse of the rest of the system can affect it. It's only connected to the controller by two data wires. The controller and LCD can only speak with each other. No power goes down those wires. It also functions separately as a power switch for the controller. The blue wire becomes connected to the red battery wire when you switch it on. The blue wire then connects the battery to the controller's pcb. If there were any problem on those wires, you'd see something happening on the battery display and the LCD would lose communication with the controller to give error code 0.

I'd say that it's 90% certain that you have some sort of problem in the LCD, probably software related. The only other logical cause is that communication is getting interrupted, but you should see an error code 0 if that happens. Also, it's vaguely possible that a particular set of parameters might expose a bug in the firmware.

The only solution I can think of is to make a note of all the parameter settings, then do a reset by setting C10=y.

Tried a reset, let's see how things go from here.

So you think that the first time this happened was just a coincidence and had nothing to do with the controller overheating from several minutes on full load? I have done the solder mod by the way.

Why couldn't it be the controller? If it sends bogus data to the display wouldn't that possibly lead to the display going bananas?

Even after turning the display off and on again there's some lag before it starts working (more than usual) so the problem seems to live thru a reset.

The questions yose power asked me was if it works with p4 setting=0 and if holding the down button for several seconds solves the problem when it happens. Answer is that when using only throttle I have never managed to replicate the problem (either than the first time) but I never use it for any extended period of time so that wouldn't necessarily mean anything. Holding the down button for several seconds doesn't do anything.

Let's see what yosepower answers the next time.

 

[Nealh]

If the controller overheats it is because of the Mosfets and they are the major heat source within.

 

[vfr400]

The shunt only affects the controller, and it can't have any effect on the software. Data transmits between the CPUs in the controller and the LCD. I can't see how either could send bogus data. If anything was damaged, no data would be sent, though I don't know what would happen if you cooked the CPU - whether a couple of bytes of code got wiped out or something like that. I guess it's possible.

 

[Klang180]

Hello, sorry to hijack the thread somewhat but I now have a Yose Power rear hub kit and battery but am now sourcing a potential donor bike. One thing that I would like is hydraulic disc breaks but I notice that the kit has normal pull brakes. Does anyone know a workaround so that they can use hydraulic brakes with the cut-out? I know i could just not use them but I would like at least some sort of emergency cut-out should there be a malfunction.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Olleman]

The shunt only affects the controller, and it can't have any effect on the software. Data transmits between the CPUs in the controller and the LCD. I can't see how either could send bogus data. If anything was damaged, no data would be sent, though I don't know what would happen if you cooked the CPU - whether a couple of bytes of code got wiped out or something like that. I guess it's possible.

Ok, let's see what yosepower says next.

The reset didn't work. I had several "freezes" today and also on throttle only.

On another note, is someone aware of a thread comparing bafang hub with yosepower hub. The noise and vibration coming from the motor is starting to annoy me a and I'm wondering how big of a difference it would be with a bafgang hub motor instead.

 

[Nealh]

The Yose brake levers can be dismantle to retrieve the wired sensor intact, you can then epoxy it to your rear brake body (only one is needed), if the sensor is plunger type then on the lever you need to a fix with epoxy a right angled stop (aluminium works well and easy to bend) to actuate the sensor plunger or there are many posts on break cuts of if you use the search function.
For this I use Gorilla epoxy which sets in about 4 - 8 mins and cures properly in about 12hrs.

 

[Olleman]

Hello, sorry to hijack the thread somewhat but I now have a Yose Power rear hub kit and battery but am now sourcing a potential donor bike. One thing that I would like is hydraulic disc breaks but I notice that the kit has normal pull brakes. Does anyone know a workaround so that they can use hydraulic brakes with the cut-out? I know i could just not use them but I would like at least some sort of emergency cut-out should there be a malfunction.

Thanks in advance.

I don't use the cut-offs and I don't really see a point for a kit with this power. The brakes will easily overpower the motor.

You could buy small cut off switches that you can mount directly on your existing brake handles if you want to use it.

Yose Power

Electric bike battery available online at YOSEPOWER. Spare and replacement electric bike batteries and chargers for top brands at affordable prices.

www.yosepower.com

 

[Klang180]

I don't use the cut-offs and I don't really see a point for a kit with this power. The brakes will easily overpower the motor.

You could buy small cut off switches that you can mount directly on your existing brake handles if you want to use it.

Yose Power

Electric bike battery available online at YOSEPOWER. Spare and replacement electric bike batteries and chargers for top brands at affordable prices.

www.yosepower.com

Thanks so much that is really helpful. I will know now not to shy away from hydro brake bikes. I have a local one on ebay that I am tracking and would suit very well but didn't know whether the hydro brakes were going to be an issue, I am glad they will not be.

 

[Klang180]

There are many posts on break cuts of if you use the search function.

Thanks Nealh, will do and apologies for the lack of proper research.