Yosepower hub kits.

tunznath

Pedelecer
Sep 20, 2019
100
12
Ooh nice - I'd swap this cold December here in Blighty for your 14 degrees , even the rain thats heading your way at the weekend and your costly postage any day!
Haha i think you would have changed your thinking, if you were here this morning my wife vaulted out the bed and made for the door at 07:47 we had a 4.5 earthquake for about 4 secs this morning, nothing to worry tho,
about but today weve had 60 earthquakes over 2 richter theres a huge amount of activity to the west of us in the sea, this november 230 over 2.6 and dec so far 267 maybe we will have a new island to explore
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
628
78
Scunthorpe
4.5 earthquake
I have only experienced one quake here in the UK, I think it was 3 but don't quote me on that, lasted a few seconds at 2am 10 years ago(ish) not fun... I don't know much about fault lines and tectonic plates but as the crow flies, if you headed towards and over Cuba (not on an ebike of course:p) and several miles of sea you are really not far from Whakaari, could the earth quakes have happen as a result of that volcano?
 
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Joeyp1

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 21, 2019
12
2
I've now got my yose at 48v with a 22A controller. In the C5 setting I've reduced the max amps to setting 2, which should mean max of 18A.

Just taken it for a test drive, in PAS4 it gets to about 550W, but PAS5 is insane, its over 1000w. But it shouldn't be right? 18ax48v=864w.

What am I doing wrong?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,733
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West Sx RH
I'm not sure on this but the power shown on the LCD is not the actual seen by the hub, I have a feeling it is before any power losses are factored in which is some 20% or more.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
6,008
2,198
Basildon
I remember from threads ages ago that there is some suspicion that these settings for current don't actually do anything. You need to measure independently to be sure, or maybe set it to something really low and see if you can feel the difference.

When you solder the shunt, the whole system in the controller is tricked into how much current is actually flowing, so the display still shows the same as before. Maybe that setting is the software equivalent of soldering the shunt.
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
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What am I doing wrong?
I was going to suggest as vfr400 mentions, if you use the LCD setting and lower it to as near 11 amps and see if PAS comes in near 500 watts
 

PC2017

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Sep 19, 2017
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how do the PAS levels actually work, do they reduce amp draw, if so you would think the amp draw setting would work...
 

Sturmey

Pedelecer
Jan 26, 2018
175
84
64
Ireland
I've now got my yose at 48v with a 22A controller. In the C5 setting I've reduced the max amps to setting 2, which should mean max of 18A.

Just taken it for a test drive, in PAS4 it gets to about 550W, but PAS5 is insane, its over 1000w. But it shouldn't be right? 18ax48v=864w.

What am I doing wrong?
Hi. I fitted a 250w yose lately and noticed that lcd3 is slightly different (e.g L parameters) than older yose350. I am inclined to suspect that settings are possibly changed to make controller compatible with LCD5. (In LCD5, setting C5=02 affects the 'soft start').
Anyhow, I would try C5=07 or 06, (22 amp divide by 1.2 or 1.25) and see does it work.
PS The pass level worked for me before.
 
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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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My lcd3 uses the older C5 programming and reduces current by 5a max in 0.5a increments, all I can say with my lcd is as long as P3/1 is set then current and watts in the 5 levels are noticeable.
Typically the PAS levels %'s are 13, 20, 33,50 & 100.

The later software only has 8 incremental changes and 1 & 2 are not used, so if selected you will likely not see any difference.
 
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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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Basildon
how do the PAS levels actually work, do they reduce amp draw, if so you would think the amp draw setting would work...
It depends whether you have it set to current control (P3=1) or speed control (P3=0). Under current control, it holds the current absolutely flat when pedalling below 15.5 mph and pedalling steadily. You can see here:
33403

Under speed control, the controller varies the current in an attempt to hold your speed at the target level for each level on the LCD.
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
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it holds the current absolutely flat
I assume you mean an incrementally different "flat current" for each PAS level???o_O

Is that graph for PAS5
 

Joeyp1

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 21, 2019
12
2
Thanks for the tips, I have the old C5 programming on my lcd3 with the 0.5a increments.

I shall try different reductions to see if it makes any difference, and report back. Maybe setting 2 on the old C5 lcd3 doesn't do anything
 
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PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
628
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PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
628
78
Scunthorpe
Does this help?
A little I think and I thank you for your patience - I did kinda get it then because that's how I read it, however should there be an vertical axis marked current, because I still can't figure out what current PAS 1 etc is on, I assume PAS 5 is drawing 5.91a at 15khp at 290w or has it lost me again?
 

Joeyp1

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 21, 2019
12
2
Done some experimenting.

C5 settings 1 and 2 do absolutely nothing.
On 3 and above it works as expected.
Settled for 6, gives about 750W indicated. Don't know what the actual A are for that though.
 
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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
6,008
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Basildon
A little I think and I thank you for your patience - I did kinda get it then because that's how I read it, however should there be an vertical axis marked current, because I still can't figure out what current PAS 1 etc is on, I assume PAS 5 is drawing 5.91a at 15khp at 290w or has it lost me again?
That's right. there are no scales on the chart because it's a clip out of a very long one. the writing in the black box corresponds to the values on that thin vertical line next to it.

You can see that level 3 (might be actually level 4, not sure) is around 6 amps, then estimating the vertical heights of the other levels, level 2 is 4 amps. level 1 is 3 amps and level 5 is 15 amps.

It actually takes some studying to figure out what's going on. You can see the speed going up and down mainly just below 15mph. When it goes over 15 mph, the current is cut to zero, so the current line drops down. Also, when I stop pedalling, the current goes down. I selected level 5 to go up a short but very steep (30%) hill. The gap at the start of that level 5 bit is where the controller automatically cut the current while it changed the motor's direction to engage the climbing gear in the 2-speed Xiongda motor. The green line is the power, which follows the current more or less exactly, but at a different value. Power is current x voltage and you can see on the graph that the voltage (red line) is more or less constant.
 
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