Yosepower hub kits.

PC2017

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Sep 19, 2017
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but this one will work flawlessly with your standard BB
You have to confirm that it is KT compatible and check the connector end of that cable before you purchase.
 

jarob10

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 22, 2017
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You have to confirm that it is KT compatible and check the connector end of that cable before you purchase.
Yes I’ve found this one is plug & play with kt controller (higo connector, battery base type)

This listing has kt compatible, high quality pas sensors too

US $11.99 | Waterproof Electric Bicycle Pedal Assist Sensor E bike Double Hall 12 Magnet Left/Right Side PAS System DIY eBike Modified Parts
 
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Klang180

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Yes I’ve found this one is plug & play with kt controller (higo connector, battery base type)

This listing has kt compatible, high quality pas sensors too

US $11.99 | Waterproof Electric Bicycle Pedal Assist Sensor E bike Double Hall 12 Magnet Left/Right Side PAS System DIY eBike Modified Parts
Thanks for this I'll look into it. I'm not entirely sure it'll be less than the 6mm of the stock one though or am I missing something?
 

Klang180

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Jun 6, 2017
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In other news I'm not sure I made the right choice with this kit. My donor bike is feeling a little ropey with all the extra weight and any time I try to find something more robust it usually has 650 or 700cc wheels. Add to that the fact it has no rack or disc mounts and I'm starting to wonder if I haven't made a horrible error. Does anyone have experience of selling a kit or even putting the hub on a larger wheel?

I just feel the headset and shocks aren't up to the added load placed on them? Am I worrying uneccesarily or do shocks sometimes break? FYI it's a 99 gt arrowhead with 98 rock shox Judy xc. They feel solid enough but I just keep worrying about it.
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
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Mines got crappy suntour front suspension and it's fine, theres a little vibration on start up, I did buy a suspension seatpost, suntour again... if you are using the ebike for extreme MTB use I would be a tad concerned but for everyday travel on road, path and the odd occasional canal/gravel path you should be fine, just take it easy to start with, get a feel for the bike and kit as a whole, my first ever ride with my 350w front hub I avoided roads and went down a bumpy path I thought I was gona break the motor, bike and or my bones!
 
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Klang180

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Mines got crappy suntour front suspension and it's fine, theres a little vibration on start up, I did buy a suspension seatpost, suntour again... if you are using the ebike for extreme MTB use I would be a tad concerned but for everyday travel on road, path and the odd occasional canal/gravel path you should be fine, just take it easy to start with, get a feel for the bike and kit as a whole, my first ever ride with my 350w front hub I avoided roads and went down a bumpy path I thought I was gona break the motor, bike and or my bones!
Thanks PC that does make feel a little better. I'm sure I'm worrying over nothing but sometimes it just feels all too much for the frame /shocks especially as the fork and headset haven't been looked at once in the 20 years they've been in service! Keep thinking that now 29ers are all the rage they'll be a lot of 26er mtbs going for next to nothing but it just doesn't seem to be the case!
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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I just feel the headset and shocks aren't up to the added load placed on them? Am I worrying uneccesarily or do shocks sometimes break? FYI it's a 99 gt arrowhead with 98 rock shox Judy xc. They feel solid enough but I just keep worrying about it.
You're worrying about nothing. The extra weight won't have any affect on them whatsoever unless it's a front motor that'll upset the handling a bit, but won't do any harm to anything.
 

Klang180

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You're worrying about nothing. The extra weight won't have any affect on them whatsoever unless it's a front motor that'll upset the handling a bit, but won't do any harm to anything.
Thanks for your vote of confidence in the bike I'm sure you're right and I just have to get used to the different feel of the bike.
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
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make feel a little better.
No worries - do make sure as mentioned you do a regular check on the bike esp parts that wear easy and tighten all fittings on the e-parts. My first bike was a steel no suspension frame and it last well over many bumps and potholes.
 

Klang180

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One area I can't really change is the rear brake which is a plain old v brake. My frame doesn't have disc brake mounts and the v brakes just don't feel up to it at all. I've got a front mount on my fork so might go for decent brakes there but it does mean that I'm slowly wearing away the rim on the back, not good.
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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It's always worth fitting a hydraulic brake to the front. Quality brake pads/blocks can also help a bit on your caliper brakes. People used to rave about Koolstops, but I didn't notice much difference. Maybe ask on an MTB forum.
 
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Klang180

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It's always worth fitting a hydraulic brake to the front. Quality brake pads/blocks can also help a bit on your caliper brakes. People used to rave about Koolstops, but I didn't notice much difference. Maybe ask on an MTB forum.
Very sage advice and one I will follow, thanks. My old deore v brakes were good at one point but now I think there must be better. I've also got the front disc on order.

I'm giving up with the PAS sensor for now as even with the 122.5mm width bottom bracket it still causes too much friction with the crank arm. I wonder how anyone has managed to fit one on their bikes? I could go to 127mm and that might work but considering I'm coming from a 110 I'm not sure my knees will take it!
 

PC2017

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Sep 19, 2017
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Mine, but its not been plain sailing, tricky to install based on the youtube vids from Magura with no MTB installation guide, once on easy(ish) to adjust, pain changing pads or if your wheel dishes and decreasing speed rather that instant stopping power (imo), front brake standard v-brake setup for instant stopping power... for speedy down hills the rear hydraulic is perfect, the normal brake would squeak like hell at 25+mph but with the hydraulic it's a nice smooth sensation I would buy another if this one fails in a heart beat.
IMG_20190416_101747.jpg
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
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Very sage advice and one I will follow, thanks. My old deore v brakes were good at one point but now I think there must be better. I've also got the front disc on order.

I'm giving up with the PAS sensor for now as even with the 122.5mm width bottom bracket it still causes too much friction with the crank arm. I wonder how anyone has managed to fit one on their bikes? I could go to 127mm and that might work but considering I'm coming from a 110 I'm not sure my knees will take it!
You can remove about 1mm off each side of the magnet disc in the centre with a Dremmel or file, and you can remove up to 5mm off the inside of the pedal arm with a grinder or file.
 

Klang180

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Jun 6, 2017
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You can remove about 1mm off each side of the magnet disc in the centre with a Dremmel or file, and you can remove up to 5mm off the inside of the pedal arm with a grinder or file.
Thanks that's a good tip. Don't have a dremmel but maybe I'll be give it a go with the hand file and a lot of patience.
 

Klang180

Pedelecer
Jun 6, 2017
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Mine, but its not been plain sailing, tricky to install based on the youtube vids from Magura with no MTB installation guide, once on easy(ish) to adjust, pain changing pads or if your wheel dishes and decreasing speed rather that instant stopping power (imo), front brake standard v-brake setup for instant stopping power... for speedy down hills the rear hydraulic is perfect, the normal brake would squeak like hell at 25+mph but with the hydraulic it's a nice smooth sensation I would buy another if this one fails in a heart beat.
View attachment 32361
Nice, I remember maguras back in the day, they were the most have. Didn't realise they were still going but I'll take a look. Still got my eye open for a good second hand donor bike though just to avoid more bodging and further money after bad.
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
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money after bad.
Yep totally with you on that...I wouldn't like to think about the amount I have spent since 2016, but for the pleasure I get now, it's worth it, the trouble I see is a well maintained and fully safe bike is important generally but the wear and tear on an ebike is greater and from a safety aspect, needs be... Saying that once you have the parts you need/want you should have the odd year with a minimal spend, I have only purchased a mudguard, water bottle and a controller this summer, total spend £46.00 and I have sold a few bits and bobs along the way...
 

Klang180

Pedelecer
Jun 6, 2017
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I actually just took one last roll of the dice having previously spent money on a new bottom bracket and got a new crank arm (only £6) and what do you know I can now fit the PAS on even on my old 110mm bottom bracket! As a (seemingly bad) amateur bike mechanic I'm embarrassed I didn't think of this as the possible problem sooner. Anyway for anyone liking at this in the future and struggling to fit the PAS check that your crank arm isn't just really worn and going much further onto the bb spindle than it should!

Just got myself some hydraulic front brakes too so hopefully that'll help calm me down a bit. Only thing now is to get comfier grips as mine are not cushioned enough with the extra weight on the bike.