Charliefox

Has anyone used Lascycle-EU who appear to be selling Bafang mid drive kit at low prices with the motors labelled Varstrom TSDZ? I can see they are based in China despite their name and so expect the amazingly cheap £263.14 price to increase to something over £320 or so, which would still be amazing IF THEY ARE GENUINE Bafang products.

Silicone grease or Dielectric grease? I believe the latter still makes good contact if pins are tight fitting and also eliminate any sparking between other contacts.

Thanks for your informed reply. I have just ordered a 120cm julet extension lead so will have both new male plug and female socket. I will first try out your idea of just wiring the dodgy pin wire together to check if the motor will spin again. Bearing in mind you comment on damaged plating on pin I may end up replacing the male connector but not right into the motor! I am sure I can carefully solder together the 9 wires and shrink wrap them. Then tape the whole lot together. I would just cut off the present male plug and replace the female side. I remember that dodgy pin was probably damaged by a short circuit in the junction box on the crossbar which put a blister in the female socket several years ago. A new socket then solved the problem until now.

I have a 9 pin bafang connector on the frame and for the second time one of the pins have gone a little corroded and black. this is easily cleaned but the female socket...also black looking is impossible to clean. Last time I replaced just the femail side as rewiring from the motor would probably be beyond me. Strange it is the same position pin both times. Perhaps the return earth? Are there other, probably bulkier connectors that could be used or should I just replace it and use dialectric paste on all the pins next time. I am getting a quiet graunching sound when moving slowly, it goes away as more power comes in, until, as the other day it doesn't.

Count yourself lucky! I get by on a rear hub motor and a carrier battery so yes, the rear weight is noticible. You soon get used to it though and the bonus is not much chance of going over the bars on a steep descent!! Plus loads of traction from the back tyre.

By November they are up and running again. I wonder who paid the damage bill and will it happen again!

That's true. I had 2 LiPO4 carrier batteries which lasted 8 years with no problems. They still hold around 60 % of new charge. The replacement had to be a normal Lion. More capacity in a slightly less heavy case.

In the same position myself and needing a new hip and knee on same side as well. Luckily my DIY bike has a throttle so I can stand on the LH pedal and , leaning foreward, swing my right lag over my over high saddle, all without loosing momentum. Can't put the saddle down as the other knee will not bend more than 90 degrees. My other bike is a Giant Trance E+3 with a dropper seat post, so I mount and dismount with it in the low position. Things we do to keep on peddling eh!

Why do they even report it as an Ebike? I had a look at the Surrons on sale and all appear to be electic motor bikes with no pedals. Just how 3 riders can fit on the saddle beats me! As others have said, nothing to do with Ebikes at all.

Any suggestions as to the disposal of two 10Ah carrier type batteries which are down from around 32miles per charge to only 17! Hardly enough for town and back. Now replaced with one 16Ah Heilong. Probably the local council recycling yard. I did enquire how much to rebuild but silly money compared to the new Hailong which has Panasonic batteries, is a half kilo lighter and 60% more energy. I might be tempted to take one old one apart once fully discharged to see how many of the LiPO4 batteries are duff.

You are correct here too. the cost per Watt Hour for their 36v 16Ah works out less than for another make of 36v 10Ah which doesn't specify Panasonic batteries inside. Do you know if the Hailong casing comes with a mounting plate. I sent an email to Greenlance about this but no reply yet. Probably all on holiday now till January.

You are right of course. I rechecked the video on the website and realised it was for the state of charge. Found what I wanted from a UK supplier in Walsall then ground my teeth when 'Does not deliver to the Highlands' popped up when I ordered. Something we get far to often. Then I saw a German supplier, same model and price with no delivery restrictions. But then I remembered the wonder of Brexit and wondered how much I would be clobbered for Duty and carrier paperwork costs! It does cost more than the £138? top limit for exemption. Another thought. My last battery, nearly 9 years old, had LiFePO4 cells, umpteen recharges and no fires. Now they all seem to be Li-on. A little lighter, less recharges. It probably doesn't matter as I'll be well over 87 by the time the new battery is done!

Running out of juice after a pathetic 12.2 miles and having to push up the last hill, I realised it was time to replace my Feb 2015 36v LiFePO4 10Ah rear mounted battery. It was one of those book sized jobs with an alloy casing and a euro power socket. Don't see them any more. So considering a Haelong 13Ah which is 1kg lighter, 3cm longer, 2cm higher but a lot narrower. I have to have my saddle pretty high so no problem there. Just one thing. The Haelong has 3-4 different power settings accessed by push buttons.But I have a handlebar mounted controller on the bike which is wired up to the controller already. I assume I can just put the battery on max then at all time. Never sure if Amazon stuff is in the UK or coming from China. Don't want an unexpected cutoms bill!

Am I the only member who, when trying to post a reply, is getting pestered with google re-capture screens where you have to click cars or crossings etc? I don't mind one or two at the start but they keep on coming! I have never seen them on pedelecs before. These were when I was trying to reply to a rather boorish comment from a member who thought the new throttle Whisper was totally unnecessary and everyone should peddle only.

I must agree with you there except for the vacuum cleaner. We have never looked back since buying a British made Henry. The cable rewind is totally foolproof and needs only a human hand! The on/off switch is a non fancy job unlike the one on our last, expensive, Miele which failed just after the warrenty ran out and a nightmare to replace. As a bonus the Henry bags are huge, available everyhere and cheap.

Is it just me, or do you find this rush to make all tools battery operated a bit over the top? They are heavier to hold and do not stay at max power like corded tools do. More expensive even without the battery, which may well become an obsolete shape in a few short years. I have never had a problem with mains powered stuff even at 50m from the plug. The few extra minutes to rewind the cable after use is no worse than the time to recharge the batteries.

I though I had it all sorted with an old Win7 desktop and Magix Movie Edit pro 10 until my daughter bought a Go Pro Hero11 and I soon discovered that my Magix could not handle 4k HD files. Had to covert them using Video Proc Converter which is free up to a certain file size. I did a whole mass of short clips to MP4 1080p. Now I need a simple program like Clipr to joint them up. Updating to a newer version of Magix is harder since it may not run on Win7!

Provided the dropper post is not from Giant perhaps. The one fitted to my (Giant) MTB is on its second set of strips of plastic! which stop the saddle from rotating. They are fitted to prevent damage to the alloy sections which slide up and down. No spares were available in the UK according to Giant, so I cut my own. Did not last too long so now considering brass as it is used by other dropper post manufacturers.

I have the same problem because after a new knee op, it would only bend to 90 degrees. So had to shorten the cranks AND raise the saddle considerably so that the leg could cope with the 'over the top' part of the crank rotation. I have to set the pedal as high as possible and stand on it when getting on the bike so there is less height to swing the other leg over. Easier on the bike with the throttle but have to be quick with the newer MTB. For getting off, since my feet barely touch the ground, the thing is down in reverse! The MTB also has a dropper seat post which I can set low before getting on or off the bike to make things easier. The other thing you could do is lay the bike on the ground. Step over it with one leg, then pull it vertically upwards. Not elegant but saves some muscle ache from trying to stretch your legs upwards so much.

Read in the local paper the other day that Police Scotland want to restrict traffic police at night, from 3-7am I think. So the whole of the central belt may have only one traffic cop to cover the whole area! Can't see the police coming out in force for ebike checking ever.

It is not the end of the world but I noticed the other day that all the LEDs on the Rider one controller were on as the battery was being charged. Pressed the button to switch off, which it did, then 3 seconds later back on they all came. Had to remove the battery to switch off. I usually charge it indoors so no problem. I was more concerned that this meant trouble down the road. I have already needed a new controller at an expensive £99. I will replace it myself nextime as I know where the connector is, just inside the top tube. It is not a new problem. I saw posts from NZ and Australia pointing to this in 2017. So far it has not impacted on the cycling. Power changes work fine and everthing is normal....except for the switch off. Has anyone else heard of this? Bad wiring connections due to corrosion were mentioned.

Plenty of peddles on Ebay for under £20. If you don't like spikes...and I don't when they bite! just file them rounded at the points then you still have a bit of grip when it's wet.

I had a related problem with my dropper post. It was fine for me as I need a high saddle with a restricted knee bend after a new knee job. When I let thesaddle down so my daughter could use it, I noticed it was very reluctant to operate until raised again slightly. As I discovered when taking it off to repair recently, the cable was scuffed and slightly crushed. The cable had got squashed between the bottom of the seat post and a pivot point on the rear suspension. Luckily the inner cable still runs free.

To Continue, I bought a 2mm white pvc strip from screwfix for £3.29 which turned out to be too thick. I was hoping the extra 0.5mm thickness from the originals would not make that much difference. No matter, it will come in useful elsewhere. Then I found I could get a sample of black Styrene 50mm*50mm, 1.5mm thick from engineering_supplies on Ebay. A stomach churning £1.39 including P&P! 2 strips have been cut off it and the dropper post is now operating butter smooth with no discernable lateral play. A bit fiddly to cut with a stanley knife, so I stuck the sheet to the cutting board with double sided tape to stop it moving about. It may be a weak point of Giant droppers but the piston assembly is easily changed if necessary and cheap at under £50 unlike some other makes. Oh, I do love a bargain repair!

Had a great ride in the Cairngorms yesterday and avoided the showers! But my saddle started to wiggle about, ended up at an 11 degree angle in each direction from foreward. Took the dropper seat post out today and took it apart. As expected from other forum posts, the 2 plastic strips which hold the saddle straight were scuffed on one side allowing them to start climbing out of the grooves they normal fit in. Well, it should not be difficult to buy a couple of new ones thinks I. Wrong! Giant UK do not supply a service kit that includes them. A German supplier does...Euro 11.90. But their postage to the UK is an amazing E29.90. Another Brexit bonus no doubt. I got a couple of other ideas....turn them over so the remaining 'sharper' side is in the groove..might have to glue the duff side to the inner tube. Or someone else wrapped his in alu foil and got a good result. For how long though? These strips, looking like the plain ends of cable ties, should be easy to copy in a soft metal, like aluminium. Brass might be too hard. Provided they wear quicker than the seat post tubes there should be OK. The whole lot is covered with fork butter grease anyway. Should be an interesting bodge by all accounts!